rec.autos.simulators

hi

        After reading all the posts on improving the T2 (separate
gas/brake axis) i'm going to try and wiring the thing up, might even
go for the whole lot, and put the extra shifters etc on.

        After having a look around the inside of the wheel unit, and
playing with the TMScope unit (in a real dos mode) i found that the
wheel pot has a max value of 1999, above this i assume the pot is no
long increasing.  The problem is this occurs at just over 90 degrees
of right turn, while i can turn to the left to until the stops. This
seems like a pot problem. How do i take the wheel pot off?
The plastic clip (holding the pot) feels like it's going to brake if a
bend it anymore, is the pot glued into the wheel shaft somehow?

BTW also have a turn left problem (in all games) runs straight most of
the time, but sometimes the car drifts left when the wheel is
straight, this is probably due to a dirty pot, but linked  to the fact
that at rest my wheel sits with at least a 5 degree angle to the left.
- Too much Nascar.
I not really sure why this is but guess it's the cord, which as well
as being tied in, is also GLUED!!
Anbody else - especially Nascar races - have this problem?? Anyone
fixed it?

CheeRs

Ste Lewis - going to fit a chrome gearshifter...

Still waiting for new springs, 1st attempt - user error
Trying to drive on 20minutes sleep, too many sims, not enough time.
Maybe I should drive faster....

icQ # 8067625

Clipped here

    This may not be a problem with your steering wheel. Are you having this
problem at ALL tracks? Several of the tracks have some banking on the
straights so to keep your car going straight you need to steer slightly to
the right.

Well, as a long-year NASCAR driver I can assure you that at this time you
won't find any better wheel than the T2. They tried to improve with the
NASCAR-pro wheel, but in my opinion the T2 is still the better choice (for
NASCAR!). The NASCAR-PRO wheel is better for Formula 1 racing games as it
has buttons on the wheel, but I customized my T2 so that now I have 16
programmeable extra buttons with four banks (= 64 buttons!!!! Whoah! I know
I'll never need them but hey, what the heck)on the dash (I took the stuff
from a throttle-devive called *PC Flight Force*, wasn't easy) plus the two
standard-buttons. I placed two of the programmeable ones behind the girders
on the wheel so that when driving an F1 or Indy I can shift whithout moving
my hands off the wheel. Why I'm telling you all this? What I wanna say is
that the T2 by Thrustmaster is a wonderful base for tinkerin'! The T2 wheel
feels MUCH better than the new NASCAR-Pro, and after some modifications to
either of 'em, you'll have a blast of a wheel!

The pot is NOT glued to the shaft in any way, so be careful when you remove
it. Just to calm you down: If for what reason ever that clip should brake,
give your LOCAL authorized Thrustmaster service a call and they'll send you
a new one free of charge and within days. Their service is really ace!

The jerkin' to the left is a known problem. Go to Thrustmaster's web page
and download their CONTROL PANEL. This program will replace your calibrating
device in Win 95 and works much better. Your wheel will respond better then.

You sure the bungee-chord is GLUED? I've had two T2's so far, and I swear
that none of them had them glued! Look twice, coz all I found there were
cable straps that held them together. To tighten the chord, clip one strap
off and then replace it by a new one.

If you have any more questions, ask!

Hope I could help and encourage you to work on your wheels improvement.

Nick

Well, as a long-year NASCAR driver I can assure you that at this time you
won't find any better wheel than the T2. They tried to improve with the
NASCAR-pro wheel, but in my opinion the T2 is still the better choice (for
NASCAR!). The NASCAR-PRO wheel is better for Formula 1 racing games as it
has buttons on the wheel, but I customized my T2 so that now I have 16
programmeable extra buttons with four banks (= 64 buttons!!!! Whoah! I know
I'll never need them but hey, what the heck)on the dash (I took the stuff
from a throttle-devive called *PC Flight Force*, wasn't easy) plus the two
standard-buttons. I placed two of the programmeable ones behind the girders
on the wheel so that when driving an F1 or Indy I can shift whithout moving
my hands off the wheel. Why I'm telling you all this? What I wanna say is
that the T2 by Thrustmaster is a wonderful base for tinkerin'! The T2 wheel
feels MUCH better than the new NASCAR-Pro, and after some modifications to
either of 'em, you'll have a blast of a wheel!

The pot is NOT glued to the shaft in any way, so be careful when you remove
it. Just to calm you down: If for what reason ever that clip should brake,
give your LOCAL authorized Thrustmaster service a call and they'll send you
a new one free of charge and within days. Their service is really ace!

The jerkin' to the left is a known problem. Go to Thrustmaster's web page
and download their CONTROL PANEL. This program will replace your calibrating
device in Win 95 and works much better. Your wheel will respond better then.

You sure the bungee-chord is GLUED? I've had two T2's so far, and I swear
that none of them had them glued! Look twice, coz all I found there were
cable straps that held them together. To tighten the chord, clip one strap
off and then replace it by a new one.

If you have any more questions, ask!

Hope I could help and encourage you to work on your wheels improvement.

Nick

Well, as a long-year NASCAR driver I can assure you that at this time you
won't find any better wheel than the T2. They tried to improve with the
NASCAR-pro wheel, but in my opinion the T2 is still the better choice (for
NASCAR!). The NASCAR-PRO wheel is better for Formula 1 racing games as it
has buttons on the wheel, but I customized my T2 so that now I have 16
programmeable extra buttons with four banks (= 64 buttons!!!! Whoah! I know
I'll never need them but hey, what the heck)on the dash (I took the stuff
from a throttle-devive called *PC Flight Force*, wasn't easy) plus the two
standard-buttons. I placed two of the programmeable ones behind the girders
on the wheel so that when driving an F1 or Indy I can shift whithout moving
my hands off the wheel. Why I'm telling you all this? What I wanna say is
that the T2 by Thrustmaster is a wonderful base for tinkerin'! The T2 wheel
feels MUCH better than the new NASCAR-Pro, and after some modifications to
either of 'em, you'll have a blast of a wheel!

The pot is NOT glued to the shaft in any way, so be careful when you remove
it. Just to calm you down: If for what reason ever that clip should brake,
give your LOCAL authorized Thrustmaster service a call and they'll send you
a new one free of charge and within days. Their service is really ace!

The jerkin' to the left is a known problem. Go to Thrustmaster's web page
and download their CONTROL PANEL. This program will replace your calibrating
device in Win 95 and works much better. Your wheel will respond better then.

You sure the bungee-chord is GLUED? I've had two T2's so far, and I swear
that none of them had them glued! Look twice, coz all I found there were
cable straps that held them together. To tighten the chord, clip one strap
off and then replace it by a new one.

If you have any more questions, ask!

Hope I could help and encourage you to work on your wheels improvement.

Nick

On Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:16:26 GMT kites
<snip>
%       After having a look around the inside of the wheel unit, and
% playing with the TMScope unit (in a real dos mode) i found that the
% wheel pot has a max value of 1999, above this i assume the pot is no
% long increasing.  The problem is this occurs at just over 90 degrees
% of right turn, while i can turn to the left to until the stops. This
% seems like a pot problem. How do i take the wheel pot off?
% The plastic clip (holding the pot) feels like it's going to brake if a
% bend it anymore, is the pot glued into the wheel shaft somehow?

First I would like to address the point about your max value.  Every now
and then we discuss the value or need of a dedicated speed-adjustable
game port card.  Here is an example of the value of such a device.  The
original specs (which haven't changed) called for the port to return
values in a small range of about 0-255.  As machines got faster and
faster this range has soared to where soundcard ports are returning
values greatly higher than the specs call for.  In a PII300 system with
an ACM card this value can be trimmed (when calibrated properly) back to
a sane 400 max range.  This will provide a higher degree of precision.
The following is a comment from Jim Sokoloff back in September 1997:

"In theory, the smaller the highest number acheivable in the calibration
screen, the faster the joystick read will be, leaving more time to do
the physics and draw the frame. In practice, the time difference is so
small for infrequent joystick reads that it probably doesn't matter. GPL
will probably read the joystick a lot more frequently, so it may be
slightly more important there."

Now to your question about replacing the steering pot.  Check out
Alison's excellent webpages on the Thrustmaster wheels.  Here she
describes the process of replacing the pot, the bungee chord as well as
many other alterations to the T2 (and on another page the GP1) system.

Alison's Racing Pages
The URL is http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~alison/racing/
T2 Wheel http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~alison/sims/t2.htm
GP1 Wheel http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~alison/sims/gp1.htm

% BTW also have a turn left problem (in all games) runs straight most of
% the time, but sometimes the car drifts left when the wheel is
% straight, this is probably due to a dirty pot, but linked  to the fact
% that at rest my wheel sits with at least a 5 degree angle to the left.
% - Too much Nascar.
% I not really sure why this is but guess it's the cord, which as well
% as being tied in, is also GLUED!!
% Anbody else - especially Nascar races - have this problem?? Anyone
% fixed it?

--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
     Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./.  [-  < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

I even replace the bungee cord with springs, no need to replace the bungee cord
anymore.

Bye Coco

Excuse me, but you never said why you prefer the t2 to the Nascar wheel, I'm
just curious as I hae both and I prefer the Nascar wheel, because of the
better pedal feel and the clamping system, and the buttons on the wheel.