I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
aparently setup to emulate.
> >I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
> >attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
> >changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
> >name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
> >aparently setup to emulate.
> Cool. Why didn't I think of that. How did you do it? Did you use the same
> buttons,? How did you attach them etc.....
> Thanks
> :::;' /) - * - BLEEDING HEAD GOOD / dab daeh delaeh
> ::' / ) ':` -+-
> : (((\ \) /,) Crack the TRINARY `96
> : (\\\\ \_/ / http://www.concentric.net/~flashboy
> :. \ / http://sunsite.unc.edu/subgeniusThats a great idea, if you added buttons how did you attach etc, then do
> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
> aparently setup to emulate.
>> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
>> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
>> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
>> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
>> aparently setup to emulate.
>Mike,
>Tell me more, how exactly did you do this?
It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the
existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever
or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use
the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able
to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing
much more realistic and interesting.
I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it
since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the
steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and
maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the
T-2.
Cheers.
--John
--
-------------------
John (Joao) Silva
http://www.racesimcentral.net/~jsilva
Seattle, Washington USA.
> >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
> >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
> >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
> >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
> >> aparently setup to emulate.
> >Mike,
> >Tell me more, how exactly did you do this?
> Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on
> the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you
> hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the
> holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold
> them on.
> It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the
> existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever
> or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use
> the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able
> to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing
> much more realistic and interesting.
> I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it
> since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the
> steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and
> maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the
> T-2.
> Cheers.
> --John
> --
> -------------------
> John (Joao) Silva
> http://www.racesimcentral.net/~jsilva
> Seattle, Washington USA.
> >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
> >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
> >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
> >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
> >> aparently setup to emulate.
> >Mike,
> >Tell me more, how exactly did you do this?
> Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on
> the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you
> hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the
> holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold
> them on.
> It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the
> existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever
> or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use
> the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able
> to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing
> much more realistic and interesting.
> I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it
> since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the
> steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and
> maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the
> T-2.
> Cheers.
> --John
> --
> -------------------
> John (Joao) Silva
> http://www.racesimcentral.net/~jsilva
> Seattle, Washington USA.
> >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
> >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
> >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
> >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
> >> aparently setup to emulate.
> >Mike,
> >Tell me more, how exactly did you do this?
> Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on
> the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you
> hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the
> holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold
> them on.
> It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the
> existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever
> or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use
> the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able
> to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing
> much more realistic and interesting.
> I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it
> since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the
> steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and
> maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the
> T-2.
> Cheers.
> --John
> --
> -------------------
> John (Joao) Silva
> http://www.racesimcentral.net/~jsilva
> Seattle, Washington USA.
On Sat, 15 Jun 1996 08:14:43 +1100, Scott Caddaye
>> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
>> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
>> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
>> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
>> aparently setup to emulate.
>>> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
>>> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
>>> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
>>> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
>>> aparently setup to emulate.
>>Mike,
>>Tell me more, how exactly did you do this?
>Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on
>the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you
>hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the
>holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold
>them on.
>It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the
>existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever
>or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use
>the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able
>to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing
>much more realistic and interesting.
>I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it
>since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the
>steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and
>maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the
>T-2.
>Cheers.
Wally
Walt Ottenad
Wally's World
http://www.racesimcentral.net/~wottenad/wheel.htm
The homebuilt home page!
I actually ran the wires from the buttons, to the middle of the console
and inside of the T2 all the way to the shift lever, I then soldered them
to the existing connections on the shift lever so that I can use either
the lever or pushbuttons to shift without having to reconfigure the game
or anything on the T2, if you look at the wiring connections on the shift
lever it is pretty obvious which wires to connect to, at least it was for
me, basically 2 position wires and a common ground.
As far as the wire, I just left the wires a bit loose going from the
center of the T2 console to each button, loose enough so that I can turn
the wheel all the way each direction without making the wires fully
taught. It has worked well for me that way, but I have heard some people
say here that telephone handset chord works well there too, I will
probably convert to that if the wires ever fail or give me any problems,
but so far so good.
Sorry if this is not too detailed, but I think this is fairly easy to do
and the average person using common sense will be able to figure it out,
after all even I was able to do it <G>.
Hope that helps.
--John
--
-------------------
John (Joao) Silva
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~jsilva
Seattle, Washington USA.
> > >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
> > >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
> > >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
> > >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
> > >> aparently setup to emulate.
> > >Mike,
> > >Tell me more, how exactly did you do this?
> > Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on
> > the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you
> > hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the
> > holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold
> > them on.
> John, you wouldn't happen to have the radio shack part number also how
> do you keep the new wires from snapping when turning wheel - did you just
> use alot of wire or what. I was looking inside my T2 and it looks like
> you may be able to run the new buttons and wire them to the two red ones
> on the front of the wheel is this so. Thx Jeff
I expect to use some coiled phone cord to do the wiring. For a wiring diagram
Neil
--
Meek and obedient you follow the leader
down well trodden corridors into the valley of steel..
Neil Yeatman, Ajax, Ontario, CANADA
> On Sat, 15 Jun 1996 08:14:43 +1100, Scott Caddaye
> >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be
> >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear
> >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the
> >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is
> >> aparently setup to emulate.
> This sounds great, can you tell me and everyone how you made this.
It's quite hard to explain but I'll give it a go.
To do this conversion you need:-
1. A Phillips***driver.
2. A sodering iron.
3. Some solder.
4. Insulation tape.
5. A flat-edge***driver.
6. Some of those plastic click-tie things.
7. Single wire electrical wire.
What I did was take off the cover behind the steering wheel itself by
removing the 6 vertically positioned screws from the base.
Then I established what wires the buttons used to operate. In mine they
were the Blue & Yellow for button A and Green & Yellow for button B. NOTE
that both yellow wires are joined and must be joined in order for them to
work.
Then I marked out the wires and where they mounted on the actual button
itself (on the plastic not the terminals) with Twink or White Out.
I then used a flat edge***driver to wedge the red buttons off the
outside of the base, don't worry they're only clip-ons, you can now slide
the clicking parts of the buttons out from their little shelves.
The next thing I did was solder the wire exentions to the original wires
and put them through the respective holes where the buttons originally
were then soldered them to the buttons, make sure the extensions are long
enough to accomodate the entire travel, I used the original bottons and
positioned them on the 2 horizontal spokes one on each side, they
actually rest quite well against plastic which separates the middle and
small circles in the spokes so that the little metal terminals can be
seen from either side of the plastic when looking at the wheel from the
front, make sure the wires are long enough to accomodate the full range
of movement. Also make sure that you use a new wire to connect the two
yellow terminals and that the wire is long enough to run behind the
spokes from one button to the other.
I then used insulation tape to cover all the soldered joints so that two
opposing joint didn't touch and then wrapped the two (A&B) sets of wire
in tape as well. I ran the wire along the front face of the base, holding
it in place with insulation tape so that they ran up from the base of the
wheel into the hollow behind the spokes where I used a plastic tie to
hold the wires in place around the plastic between the middle size and
large hole in the two spokes.
The last thing I did was put tape around the spokes to keep the wires in
place.
