--
Damien Smith
ICQ: 77028579
F1 2001 rank: +35.325
My LWFF developed the exact same problem. I tried various things, but in the
end I ended up cutting away the pad for the switch with a jigsaw and glued a
standard 12mm tact switch in it's place. Initially I soldered the contacts
directly to what was left of the connections of the original pad & cup
switch, but that wasn't reliable enough, so now I have wires running to
other soldering points on the same tracks and this has held so far (since
spring last year). You might need to file down the actuator on the downshift
side a bit for the swith to release properly once the wheel is assembled
again.
Drop me a mail and I'll try doing a scan of the repair to give you an idea.
Jan.
=---
"Pay attention when I'm talking to you boy!" -Foghorn Leghorn.
Well, I simply pulled out the cup (couldn't believe it was held by sticky
tape) and cleaned the contacts and that fixed it....for now. Once you start
cleaning contacts though, it's something you have to do every couple of
months. Do you know what I can use to stop the contacts from oxidising?
--
Damien Smith
ICQ: 77028579
F1 2001 rank: +33.541
Lucky you... the cup split on mine making for a very bouncy contact (ever
unintentionally downshifted two gears in quick succession in GPL? ;-)).
Anyhow, I don't think there's anything you can use on the contacts which
wouldn't compromise the adhesion of the tape, so IMO you're stuck with
cleaning them every so often.
Jan.
=---
"Pay attention when I'm talking to you boy!" -Foghorn Leghorn.
Damien,
sorry for not replying earlier (got 1st time father last saturday :-)
Long time ago I had a shifter problem with my wheel. It turned out to be a
broken diaphragm (this bubble).
I went for a quick 'n dirty repair by simply soldering the crack (after taking
off the bubble).
What I didn't expect to last, works since few years now :-)
What also could happen:
the bubble slips aside (happened to me few times due to not-so-suitable tape)
the hub-nut goes loose.
I didn't refer much to the shifter on my website, since MikeT is offering
PCB-overhauls with *real* switches.
If you are handy with tools and soldering iron, you could get and fix those
switchedd yourself. After the treatment you have to shorten the plunger, which
operates the switch.
HTH
JensSchumi
---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://jensschumi.tripod.com/
GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95
JensSchumi
On Wed, 6 Feb 2002 11:39:04 +0100, "Jan Verschueren"
GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95
Jens... notice the word "glued". Hotglue is exactly what I did (nobody
should be without one of those cheapo glue guns). But it wasn't a reliable
repair (perhaps I'm heavy handed on the shifter paddles) until I connected
the switch through the more flexible means of wire.
Jan.
=---
"Pay attention when I'm talking to you boy!" -Foghorn Leghorn.
Congrats on the kid!!
Jan.
=---
"Pay attention when I'm talking to you boy!" -Foghorn Leghorn.
