rec.autos.simulators

I'm using Thrustmaster GP1 wheel and CH Pro pedals. My problem
with F1RS is that the brake pedal works more or less on an
'on/off' basis. When I'm pressing it 1/3 of the way, my
wheels lock. The gas pedal works nicely on the whole range.
Any ideas for this one? I've tried the brake sensitivity slider,
but it's of no use.. at 100% sensitive I get the largest usable
movement and at 0% sensitive it's full brake power with any
amount of pedal movement :-(

Also there's a calibration problem, since I'm using the
GP1's analog 'whiskers' as gear up/down, I have to calibrate
the stuff at least two times before it works. The problem
is such, that when I fully depress the gas or brake pedal
the 'whiskers' axis moves up or down just a tad and causes
a gear up or down command. I wish F1RS would have a null zone
setting for every analog axis that can be used in the game.

 -Juha

--

Running the UK version, patched to 1.09, on a Voodoo 2.  Can't really get
into it that much since it's kinda hard to drive.  Played with the
sensitivity, and that just seems to make it worse.  Adjusted the speed on my
gamecard and even tried the soundcard gameport, all a bit differrent but
seems that you get brake lockups regardless.

Ken

I agree, F1RS's controller setup really screws up what could be a
classic racing game. Too much of a on/off feel in steering too.
Hopefully Ubisoft can fix this....and make it like a Papyrus setup.

Rick Carlson

--
Header address intentionally scrambled to ward off the spamming hordes.

Yeah - been noticing it in playing it some trying to get used to the brakes,
the steering sometimes almost feels like GP1 w/ steering help, turning
doesn't seem to do anything then JERK over to the racing line, can't really
describe it.

Ken

It sounds as if you have encountered the dreaded Microsoft 5% Deadzone.

 Get the Dz2 Zip file from:

 www.f1racingsim.com

 It  will allow you to set the default deadzone anywhere from 0-5%. I've set
mine to 0, and really notice it on turn-in to a corner. I am able to be much
more precise on entry.

Don

<snip>

Nope, already did that - set it to either 1 or 0 I'm not sure.  Beginning to
think maybe it's the GP1, or the GP1 / CH Pedals combo.  Got a friend who's
moving, and he's selling his TM NASCAR Pro.  Might pick that up and relegate
the CH Pedals to flight-sim duty only.

Or might just go back to my old setup of CH Flightstick Pro (still going
strong) w/ the pedals, always did pretty well in N2 and GP2 with that.
Maybe a bit faster with the GP1 setup, but mainly just liked having a wheel
for being more natural.

Maybe that new P2-400 will solve the problem...yeah, that's the way to
rationalize it  hehe.

l8er
ronny

--
Toys'R'Us '99: "So, would you like a hand gun with that action figure,
kiddo?"

          |\      _,,,---,,_        I want to die like my Grandfather,
   ZZZzz /,`.-'`'    -.  ;-;;,_              in his sleep.
        |,4-  ) )-,_. ,\ (  `'-'     Not like the people in his car,
       '---''(_/--'  `-'\_)            screaming their heads off!

Hi Ken,

I have a Smith's Wheel & Pedal Kit <made in South Africa>, and therefore not
on "Bill's" list of hardware. This is how I set mine up....

1) Go to the Windows 95 control panel

2) Add a custom controller

3) Set it up as a 2 button 2 axis Race car controller

4) Give it a name (!) and calibrate it. (Make sure read the instructions
that windows gives you while calibrating, and do exactly as Windows
instructs.)

5) Load game, and go to configuration page.

7) Set the controls for keyboard first. Use arrow keys for direction and
acceleration. To set the controls, push the half-round buttons at the end of
the menu bars. To do this, move the mouse icon, which is a chequered flag,
onto the half-round button and press. The flag will disappear while it
awaits your input. (The message window at the bottom of the screen will also
light up and prompt CHOOSE COMMAND)

8) Then set the controls for the wheel. For steering, the top bar will
be left and right, while the brake and accelerate are your pedals (!)

9) Gear up and down are usually left button behind the Smith wheel is
gear down, right button is gear up.

8) Then slip into your nomex suit, shut the visor and RACE.

It certainly is worth a try...give it a go.

Chad

BTW  The Smith's Wheel & Pedal Kit is brilliant, and if you are interested
in getting more details drop me an e-mail... just remove NOSPAM from this

***pit.

<snip>

Basically what I did to set mine up, it shows up ok, and works ok, just
doesn't "feel" right.

Seems it works well for others, just was hoping there was some setting I
missed somewhere that made it as jumpy as it seemed, just gonna have to play
around with the sensitivity more I guess - and get in more practice :-)

Thanx all for the suggestions

Ken - go #43 and #44