rec.autos.simulators

The results are a 2.3ghz 10.5 x 220fsb 1700+ cpu running at 54C fully loaded
(prime95) at 1.875v core.  It scores 5200 in 3dmark2003.  These aren't
incredibly impressive, but it was a very fun project for me to research and
work on.  I played Unreal2 last night at 1280x1024x32 with very smooth
gameplay.  The Abit NF7-S v2.0 is an excellent board!

One major tip:  Do not use an old-style non-P4-ready power supply in this
sort of heavily-overclocked high-amperage system.  I found this out the hard
way today when the hardware monitor alarm went off and I smelt burning
plastic.  Pulling the ATX motherboard connector off, the 12v pin on the
connector was charred and melted !!

I think the older supplies and their connectors simply aren't designed to
supply such high current to the 12v line.  Luckily the newest nforce2 boards
include the P4-type 12v connector.  I bought an antec 430w truepower, and am
back in business.

rms

Heh heh, good man! My reservoir is a five gallon bucket that formerly
held pickles.

Six amperes. That's all those pins on the ATX connector are good for.
With no fans connected to the motherboard or no overclocking, 72 watts
is enough. For the rest of us, that other 12 A is a necessity.

P.S. Odd cross post.  ?
--
sls

Cheers

I'm iin the process of converting my system over to water-cooling.  
I'm going slow though because I'm case modding as well. No lights or
case window, but modifying the case for the radiator/fan ducting.

I also got the Maze3 (and the Radeon waterblock from DangerDen as
well).

I chose a Via Aqua 1300 for my pump and will be using it inline.

Eventually, I'll be moving all of the cooling components outside the
case and into their own box.

    I no longer think this is the best block on the market.  The best seem
to use what're called 'micro channels' to achieve better heat transfer to
the water medium.  Here is a review of one:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles692/

rms

How abourt a tropical fish tank ? Then you wouldn't need
to run that fancy screen-saver..............would keep the
fish warm too.......

John Lewis

is that temp measured by the motherboard's temp monitor, or by an external
monitor? If it's the former, is that an nForce2 motherboard?

TIA for the reply.

Achim

    Ya, builtin sensors on a abit nf7-s v2.  When installing the cpu, I bent
the temp diode up slightly to make certain it would be contacting the bottom
of the cpu directly, and not have an air gap, so hopefully its reasonably
accurate (it occurs to me I should have put a dab of thermal compound on the
bottom of the cpu where it contacts the temp diode for more accuracy --
maybe next time).  I'm now running at 10 x 230fsb, but benchmarks are about
the same as 10.5 x 220, as I had to back the memory off from 6-3-3-2.0 to
7-3-2-2.0.  3dmark2003 score is 5200.

    Sound-wise, I now turn off the radiator fans when not ***, and as I
have no case fans the only noise in the system is from the water pump and
hard drives.  To reduce the hard drive whine I did a mod very similar to
this one:
http://www.racesimcentral.net/
using 1/2" thick *** sheeting to surround the HD mounting area, which
dramatically cut down on the high-pitched whine.  Without the radiator fans
running, the system idles at about 52C(cpu) / 33C(system), a little high,
but its perfectly happy at these temperatures, and I like the relative
quiet!

rms

http://www.corsairmemory.com/main/hcv1.pdf

Beers and cheers
(uncle) Goy
"goyl at nettx dot no"

http://www.theuspits.com

"A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
--Groucho Marx--

All you really need are

pump $22 - $65 (depends on flow rate and brand)
radiator $60
cpu water block $55
gpu water block $45
120mm fan for radiator $15-25
Incidentals (tubig clamps, distilled water and additive) $30

The hardest part is making it fit in your existing case. If you don't
think it will fit, just buy a mini-tower case for $30 and put the rad
and pump in it, and run tubing to your computer where the waterblocks
live.

Key concerns

1) Flow rate - the higher the better.  Avoid using T-lines or other
fittings that split the flow.  Keep the number of fittings in the
line to an absolute minimum.  Also, maintain the same size fittings
on ALL components (1/2 inch is recommended).

2) Cooling the radiator. Best cooling performance is achieved by
pulling AND pushing cool air through the radiator (requires two fans
of identical CFM rating). Position the fan(s) at least one inch from
the radiator to eliminate/lessen the cooling "dead spot" created by
the larger fan motor.  Pabst 4212 fans are the norm in watercooling -
they're real quiet, and they move a reasonable amount of air.

3) Use quality tubing (ClearFlex-60 or Tygon). It's less prone to
kinking and doesn't dry out like the cheap ***you can get at the
local hardware store.

4) Always used distilled water, and add something like HyperLube,
PurpleIce, Water Wetter, or Zerex Racing Coolant to the water.

If you want to get fancy, spend the money on a roomy case. The YY
0221 is nice, and the YYT-0441 is even bigger.  They're cube cases
and have more than enough room for a decent watercooing setup.

I've been thinking about going water cooling myself, but was always too lazy
to actually implement it. However, my fan's noise gets to me, more annoying
every day.

Good idea about bending the temp measurement diode up - I'll have to do that
as well next time around!

Achim

...

The thing is, running a computer shop means I'm surrounded by computers
all effing day, and evenings too if I'm busy, "hard at work" (well,
sometimes at least :-) fixing other people's computers, which is a
decent way to make a living and I'm not complaining, but when I get home
in the evening I really don't want to mess around too much with my own
computer, so a turn key water cooling solution suits me just fine even
if I do give up some peformance

If I feel like messing about, I'll mess about with my car or something
instead....which makes me wonder why I'm considering water cooling in
the first place, but I did the Peltier cooler back when that was all the
rage, including 7200 RPM Delta fans (ouch) and I figured I'd give it one
easy go, just to see what it's all about and possibly sell a few kits
down at the shop

I'll probably build it into a Chieftec Midi Tower, they're fairly roomy,
if not, they have a full tower that will surely do, but then it gets a
little too big for my tastes

http://www.racesimcentral.net/

Beers and cheers
(uncle) Goy
"goyl at nettx dot no"

http://www.racesimcentral.net/

"A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
--Groucho Marx--

My experience with "kits" is that they generally have to be modified
anyway.  Going the pices/parts route, the only hassle is getting the
parts together.  However, DangerDen sells a kit (several in fact),
and they're having a sale right now - $174 for the whole shooting
match (or $219 if you want to get a gpu waterblock too - gf4/radeon
9x00 only).

Don't kid yourself Goy - adding watercooling is gonna be a hassel, no
matter how you buy your parts.

:)

Yeah, but one of the reasons for picking this one is that I can get it
from one of my regular distributors, as well as getting some personal
experience with it before I start selling it at the shop, I'm not
looking for the ultimate watercooling solution, I jus want to dabble a
little and see how things work, in which case a "turn key" solution is a
perfect start

Actually, by purchasing a "turn key" solution, I *can* kid myself into
thinking it's not going to be a hassle :-)

Beers and cheers
(uncle) Goy
"goyl at nettx dot no"

http://www.theuspits.com

"A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
--Groucho Marx--