> >Could someone please explain the pros and cons of setting your brakes to
> >the front and to the rear in World Circuit.
> >I have been setting my brakes to the front as of late (around 10), and
> >have been getting faster lap times then when they are set to the rear or
> >nuetral. The manual doesn't explain this setting to well though.
> >Any advice or information would be appreciated.
> Brake balance has do with just that. how the brakes are balanced between
> front and rear. It has to do with the relative amount of pressure
> applied to each set of brakes. Taken a little father you could say that it
> is a way of setting which set of brakes do the most work (most stopping of
> the car if you will) when braking the car. If your brake balance (BB) is
> neutral then your front and rear tires should lock up at pretty close to
> the same instant under heavy braking. If you BB is toward the front then
> your front wheels will lock up b4 your rears (with less pedal pressure
> than it takes to lock up the rears). Vice-versa for rear BB. You can use
> this to help overcome poor weight distribution or to adjust the car so
> that you can drive a track nmore in your style of driving.
> If you are driving a track where oversteer is no-no then you can set your
> BB toward the front of the car so that under braking your front wheels
> will brake lose b4 the rear and the car pushes. Vice-versa if you want
> the car to oversteer and get into the corners better. For a track like
> Monaco where you need to drift/slide a lot your brake BB would probably be
> very close to neutral.
Maybe in the sim this is so, though I doubt it, really. Too
oversimplified for reality. If you've ever ridden a motorcycle or
read a driver's education manual, you would know that under heavy
braking, with the pitch forward and resulting weight shift to the
front wheels increasing the grip available, the front brakes
normally do about 70% of the braking work to stop a vehicle. The
physics models would have to take this into account to make a decent
sim, or it wouldn't feel as good as it does.
Know the traction circle concept, taught in every basic driving
school class? The idea is that tires only have so much grip
available that can be given to a "circle" with no
accel/braking/turning vectors at the center, then full braking,
full accel, turning left/right, and points in between defining your
circle of traction... Practical aspect being that if you try to turn
a corner under full braking, no doubt you exceed the circle of
traction available and understeer occurs. Got to let off the brakes
a bit to devote some of the grip available towards turning the car
into the corner, and this is also why you need to balance throttle
and turning coming out of a corner, because in addition to the
traction circle idea, you are now accelerating with the rear wheels
thus picking up the nose putting more traction towards the rear of
the car on the driving wheels and taking weight off the front of the
car on the steering wheels....
Play with it on your street car sometime... pick a constant
radius turn at highway speeds and check the turn in/out factors
based on throttle inputs only. More throttle more relative
understeer, throttle off you will see the car turn in more. I am NOT
talking about spinning the rears to oversteer, just mild throttle
changes approaching your tires traction limits when these effects
are easily visible.
For your sim, if you find yourself understeering in a corner, then
adjust brake balance to the rear (fronts locked and steering,
exceeds grip available, so shift work rearward), but if you find
yourself oversteering, even if smooth into the corner, then this
means the rears are possibly locking up first so shift brake balance
more towards the front, thus distributing work more evenly. When you
get to a neutral balance of controllability (or uncontrollability if
overcooking the entrance) then you've found a good balance for you.
Of course, setup has a LOT to do with the relative stiffness at each
corner affecting the weight shift and effects of brake balance, so
don't start here, end here. Springs/shocks/weighting affects.
And I don't own F1gp, or IC, just know cars and how it should be
when you have a well-balanced race setup that is a joy to drive.
--
1981 KS region SCCA H/S Solo II #2 '65 VW Squareback. Fav cars: '64
Mustang; '69 Fury III with 440 Super Commando & 2.73 rear end; sad
clipped '75 2.0 914. Current: 540cc 4dr Suzuki Alto II, Corolla 1600
Racing sim: NASCAR <good for a sim> and, Japan IS an AutoX course!