Pedal Hinge Location.. (makin' pedals)

Hey all, In a World Rally Car, are the pedals Hinged on the top or the bottom?? How about an F1 car? Next week, I may build myself a set of pedals including a clutch. I just want to know what style to make the pedals. Either one is about the same build, as I designed a pretty cool solution for the top hinged pedal design. So I just want to know which would be more accurate for playing the following: Rally Trophy, Any new WRC game that may come out, F12002, Live For Speed, GPL. I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so the pinout matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be interchangeable with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own axis, but it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This way my pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with split-axis and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple controllers, I plug the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go. That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to use on the gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and a Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :) Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com

Mike Beauchamp wrote: > Hey all,<snip>

Quoted text (16 lines)

> > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so the pinout > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be interchangeable > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own axis, but > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This way my > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with split-axis > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple controllers, I plug > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go. > > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to use on the > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and a > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :) > > Mike > http://mikebeauchamp.com >

Sounds like a good way to do it Mike. My pedals are wired with the same connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheel show as one controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if ever needed). The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connected to the gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to get rid of jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in the H-shifter by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so the clutch pedal can be disconnected. So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on one controller and H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whether to update the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in seeing how your pedals are designed. Ken PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny aluminum 4-speed coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-)

If I make the pedals, I'll definately draw out the plans. Since I plan on making them pretty budget oriented, but still pretty good. I have a feeling that a lot of DIY type LFS players would be interested, especially with clutch support and such coming out soon. Anyways, there's going to be two sides of MDF and a bottom with a piece of threaded rod going straight from one end to the other maybe a foot high. Then the pedals hinge off of that, with the part going to the pedal straight down, and another part going straight back. That's where bungee cords will attach to that and the base. So when the pedal is pushed forward, it raises up and stretches the bungee's. Kind of hard to describe. The pot will be mounted on the arm that the pedal is attached to and be geared (or pulleyed) up against the threaded rod with a ratio so it uses almost all the pot's rotation. There's also stuff like smaller threaded rods for each pedal that limit it's travel, so each will be adjustable. Each pedal assembly is going to be exactly the same, so construction will be easy. Most things are going to be made out of MDF, which will hold up quite nicely and be a lot cheaper and more accessable than some of these awesome machined aluminum jobs I've seen around here :) Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com "Ken MacKay" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted text (8 lines)

> > > Mike Beauchamp wrote: > > Hey all, > <snip> > > > > > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so the

pinout > > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will beinterchangeable > > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own axis,but > > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This way my > > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device withsplit-axis > > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple controllers, Iplug > > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go. > > > > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to use onthe

Quoted text (8 lines)

> > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and a > > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :) > > > > Mike > > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > Sounds like a good way to do it Mike. My pedals are wired with the same > connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheel show

as one > controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if everneeded). > The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connected tothe > gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to get rid of > jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in theH-shifter > by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so the clutchpedal > can be disconnected. So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on onecontroller and > H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whether toupdate > the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in seeing howyour > pedals are designed. > > Ken > PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny aluminum4-speed > coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-) >

I think it's more an issue of where the pedal pivots than where it is hinged. The Momo pedals for example are hinged at the bottom, however they pivot in the center of the pad. The actual hinge point is even back under the pedal where your heel is. What you many want to end up with is a pedal that you push forward in some manner, not so much one that has a great deal of pivot about any one point.

FYI - The cost of aluminium isn't that much more and it can be easily worked with most standard tools. You can easily cut aluminium with a jig saw and even on a saw table using a carbide blade. "Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:I%pE9.30043$[email hidden]... > If I make the pedals, I'll definately draw out the plans. Since I plan on > making them pretty budget oriented, but still pretty good. I have afeeling > that a lot of DIY type LFS players would be interested, especially with > clutch support and such coming out soon. > > Anyways, there's going to be two sides of MDF and a bottom with a piece of > threaded rod going straight from one end to the other maybe a foot high. > Then the pedals hinge off of that, with the part going to the pedalstraight > down, and another part going straight back. That's where bungee cords will > attach to that and the base. So when the pedal is pushed forward, itraises > up and stretches the bungee's. Kind of hard to describe. The pot will be > mounted on the arm that the pedal is attached to and be geared (orpulleyed) > up against the threaded rod with a ratio so it uses almost all the pot's > rotation. There's also stuff like smaller threaded rods for each pedalthat > limit it's travel, so each will be adjustable. Each pedal assembly isgoing > to be exactly the same, so construction will be easy. > > Most things are going to be made out of MDF, which will hold up quitenicely > and be a lot cheaper and more accessable than some of these awesomemachined

Quoted text (20 lines)

> aluminum jobs I've seen around here :) > > Mike > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > "Ken MacKay" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:[email hidden]... > > > > > > Mike Beauchamp wrote: > > > Hey all, > > <snip> > > > > > > > > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so the > pinout > > > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be > interchangeable > > > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own

axis,

Quoted text (33 lines)

> but > > > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This way my > > > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with > split-axis > > > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple controllers, I > plug > > > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go. > > > > > > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to use on > the > > > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and a > > > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :) > > > > > > Mike > > > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > > > Sounds like a good way to do it Mike. My pedals are wired with the same > > connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheel show > as one > > controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if ever > needed). > > The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connected to > the > > gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to get rid of > > jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in the > H-shifter > > by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so the clutch > pedal > > can be disconnected. So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on one > controller and > > H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whether to > update > > the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in seeing

how

Quoted text (10 lines)

> your > > pedals are designed. > > > > Ken > > PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny aluminum > 4-speed > > coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-) > > > >

I guess I'm using the terms differently, I didn't mean to do that. I"m talking about the PIVOT point.. either being above the pedal, like on a typical street car, or below the pedal, like in almost all retail pedal/wheel combinations. Sorry about the confusion, But I 'm not talking about where the pedal itself his hinged on the arm. I'm talking about where the arm itself pivots from. Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:XYpE9.210575$[email hidden]... > I think it's more an issue of where the pedal pivots than where it is > hinged. > The Momo pedals for example are hinged at the bottom, however they pivotin > the center of the pad. The actual hinge point is even back under thepedal > where your heel is. > What you many want to end up with is a pedal that you push forward in some > manner, not so much one that has a great deal of pivot about any onepoint. > >

Where can I get these hunks of aluminum that I can work with like wood? They sound sort of interesting :) Nothing I've seen before. I was always under the assumption I'd have to machine metal. If the cost is the same as MDF (which I have laying around my house), then I'll definately consider it. However, I think MDF will hold up just fine, especially if designed to take into account the limitations of using wood. Afterall, this is my first set of pedals. If I make a second set and they turn out great, maybe then I'll consider using aluminum. I'm sort of considering this a cheap prototype that I'm hoping to be able to use for quite a long time :) Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:5hqE9.210580$[email hidden]... > FYI - The cost of aluminium isn't that much more and it can be easilyworked > with most standard tools. > You can easily cut aluminium with a jig saw and even on a saw table usinga > carbide blade. > > "Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:I%pE9.30043$[email hidden]... > > If I make the pedals, I'll definately draw out the plans. Since I planon > > making them pretty budget oriented, but still pretty good. I have a > feeling > > that a lot of DIY type LFS players would be interested, especially with > > clutch support and such coming out soon. > > > > Anyways, there's going to be two sides of MDF and a bottom with a pieceof > > threaded rod going straight from one end to the other maybe a foot high. > > Then the pedals hinge off of that, with the part going to the pedal > straight > > down, and another part going straight back. That's where bungee cordswill

Quoted text (39 lines)

> > attach to that and the base. So when the pedal is pushed forward, it > raises > > up and stretches the bungee's. Kind of hard to describe. The pot will be > > mounted on the arm that the pedal is attached to and be geared (or > pulleyed) > > up against the threaded rod with a ratio so it uses almost all the pot's > > rotation. There's also stuff like smaller threaded rods for each pedal > that > > limit it's travel, so each will be adjustable. Each pedal assembly is > going > > to be exactly the same, so construction will be easy. > > > > Most things are going to be made out of MDF, which will hold up quite > nicely > > and be a lot cheaper and more accessable than some of these awesome > machined > > aluminum jobs I've seen around here :) > > > > Mike > > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > > > > "Ken MacKay" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:[email hidden]... > > > > > > > > > Mike Beauchamp wrote: > > > > Hey all, > > > <snip> > > > > > > > > > > > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so the > > pinout > > > > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be > > interchangeable > > > > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own > axis, > > but > > > > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This way

my > > > > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with > > split-axis > > > > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple controllers,I > > plug > > > > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go. > > > > > > > > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to useon

Quoted text (8 lines)

> > the > > > > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and a > > > > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :) > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > > > > > Sounds like a good way to do it Mike. My pedals are wired with the

same > > > connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheelshow > > as one > > > controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if ever > > needed). > > > The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connectedto > > the > > > gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to get ridof > > > jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in the > > H-shifter > > > by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so theclutch > > pedal > > > can be disconnected. So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on one > > controller and > > > H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whetherto

Quoted text (8 lines)

> > update > > > the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in seeing > how > > your > > > pedals are designed. > > > > > > Ken > > > PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny

aluminum

Quoted text (7 lines)

> > 4-speed > > > coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-) > > > > > > > > >

Well there isn't "hunks" of it per se but you can buy different types - angle iron, square/round tubing, plate, etc. Check your local yellow pages for metal dealers and so on. Pop rivets and bolts make it easy to assemble. It really comes down to what you are use to using. I use wood a lot as well but find the aluminium much stronger and neater and thus you can build smaller and stronger pieces than you could do in wood. You can check the PC Hardware section of the forums on www.corl.ca for some pictures and links to some of the work people in the league are doing. FYI - I am also in the planning stages of developing a new website/forum all on racing sim hardware - from complete do it yourself links to production unit mods and full production units. Trying to make a resource that focuses just on the hardware/controller end of sim racing. "Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:e9rE9.25557$[email hidden]... > Where can I get these hunks of aluminum that I can work with like wood?They

Quoted text (23 lines)

> sound sort of interesting :) Nothing I've seen before. I was always under > the assumption I'd have to machine metal. > > If the cost is the same as MDF (which I have laying around my house), then > I'll definately consider it. However, I think MDF will hold up just fine, > especially if designed to take into account the limitations of using wood. > > Afterall, this is my first set of pedals. If I make a second set and they > turn out great, maybe then I'll consider using aluminum. I'm sort of > considering this a cheap prototype that I'm hoping to be able to use for > quite a long time :) > > Mike > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > > "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:5hqE9.210580$[email hidden]... > > FYI - The cost of aluminium isn't that much more and it can be easily > worked > > with most standard tools. > > You can easily cut aluminium with a jig saw and even on a saw table

using

Quoted text (10 lines)

> a > > carbide blade. > > > > "Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:I%pE9.30043$[email hidden]... > > > If I make the pedals, I'll definately draw out the plans. Since I plan > on > > > making them pretty budget oriented, but still pretty good. I have a > > feeling > > > that a lot of DIY type LFS players would be interested, especially

with > > > clutch support and such coming out soon. > > > > > > Anyways, there's going to be two sides of MDF and a bottom with apiece > of > > > threaded rod going straight from one end to the other maybe a foothigh.

Quoted text (7 lines)

> > > Then the pedals hinge off of that, with the part going to the pedal > > straight > > > down, and another part going straight back. That's where bungee cords > will > > > attach to that and the base. So when the pedal is pushed forward, it > > raises > > > up and stretches the bungee's. Kind of hard to describe. The pot will

be > > > mounted on the arm that the pedal is attached to and be geared (or > > pulleyed) > > > up against the threaded rod with a ratio so it uses almost all thepot's

Quoted text (26 lines)

> > > rotation. There's also stuff like smaller threaded rods for each pedal > > that > > > limit it's travel, so each will be adjustable. Each pedal assembly is > > going > > > to be exactly the same, so construction will be easy. > > > > > > Most things are going to be made out of MDF, which will hold up quite > > nicely > > > and be a lot cheaper and more accessable than some of these awesome > > machined > > > aluminum jobs I've seen around here :) > > > > > > Mike > > > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > > > > > > > "Ken MacKay" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > > news:[email hidden]... > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike Beauchamp wrote: > > > > > Hey all, > > > > <snip> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so

the

Quoted text (7 lines)

> > > pinout > > > > > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be > > > interchangeable > > > > > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own > > axis, > > > but > > > > > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This

way > my > > > > > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with > > > split-axis > > > > > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiplecontrollers, > I > > > plug > > > > > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go. > > > > > > > > > > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons touse > on > > > the > > > > > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter anda

Quoted text (11 lines)

> > > > > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :) > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > > > > > > > Sounds like a good way to do it Mike. My pedals are wired with the > same > > > > connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheel > show > > > as one > > > > controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if

ever > > > needed). > > > > The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connected > to > > > the > > > > gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to getrid

Quoted text (12 lines)

> of > > > > jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in the > > > H-shifter > > > > by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so the > clutch > > > pedal > > > > can be disconnected. So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on one > > > controller and > > > > H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whether > to > > > update > > > > the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in

seeing

Quoted text (16 lines)

> > how > > > your > > > > pedals are designed. > > > > > > > > Ken > > > > PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny > aluminum > > > 4-speed > > > > coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

That's what I figured you meant. Yes it's the pivot point that matters for sure not the actual hinge point. In a street car for example they all hinge from the top but since most have long arms most of the motion is relatively straight ahead and you don't notice much other movement. The gas pedal on most cars also typically pivots on the pad as well so the feeling is more of pushing down than just ahead. Another important thing to keep in mind is your seating position in relation to the pedals. I use my pedals on a raised base so it is more in a typical driving position with my racing seat as it would be in a car. Most mass produced sim pedals are design to work from a desk seating position flat on the floor which is not ideal for racing. "Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:D9rE9.30049$[email hidden]... > I guess I'm using the terms differently, I didn't mean to do that. > > I"m talking about the PIVOT point.. either being above the pedal, like ona > typical street car, or below the pedal, like in almost all retail > pedal/wheel combinations. > > Sorry about the confusion, But I 'm not talking about where the pedalitself

Quoted text (15 lines)

> his hinged on the arm. I'm talking about where the arm itself pivots from. > > Mike > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:XYpE9.210575$[email hidden]... > > I think it's more an issue of where the pedal pivots than where it is > > hinged. > > The Momo pedals for example are hinged at the bottom, however they pivot > in > > the center of the pad. The actual hinge point is even back under the > pedal > > where your heel is. > > What you many want to end up with is a pedal that you push forward in

some > > manner, not so much one that has a great deal of pivot about any one > point. > > > > > >

Cool Cool.. Yeah, the pedals (if built) will go into a cockpit with a salvaged car seat. It'll be laid out as close as I can dimension-wise to a generic street-car. That's why I wanted to get the pedals right. I mainly simulate Rally cars, or Live For Speed type cars.. I'm going to go look at as many cars as I can and take some measurements... Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9hrE9.210596$[email hidden]... > That's what I figured you meant. Yes it's the pivot point that mattersfor > sure not the actual hinge point. > In a street car for example they all hinge from the top but since mosthave > long arms most of the motion is relatively straight ahead and you don't > notice much other movement. The gas pedal on most cars also typically > pivots on the pad as well so the feeling is more of pushing down than just > ahead. > Another important thing to keep in mind is your seating position inrelation > to the pedals. I use my pedals on a raised base so it is more in atypical > driving position with my racing seat as it would be in a car. Most mass > produced sim pedals are design to work from a desk seating position flaton

Quoted text (7 lines)

> the floor which is not ideal for racing. > > "Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:D9rE9.30049$[email hidden]... > > I guess I'm using the terms differently, I didn't mean to do that. > > > > I"m talking about the PIVOT point.. either being above the pedal, like

on

Quoted text (7 lines)

> a > > typical street car, or below the pedal, like in almost all retail > > pedal/wheel combinations. > > > > Sorry about the confusion, But I 'm not talking about where the pedal > itself > > his hinged on the arm. I'm talking about where the arm itself pivots

from.

Quoted text (9 lines)

> > > > Mike > > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > > "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:XYpE9.210575$[email hidden]... > > > I think it's more an issue of where the pedal pivots than where it is > > > hinged. > > > The Momo pedals for example are hinged at the bottom, however they

pivot

Quoted text (14 lines)

> > in > > > the center of the pad. The actual hinge point is even back under the > > pedal > > > where your heel is. > > > What you many want to end up with is a pedal that you push forward in > some > > > manner, not so much one that has a great deal of pivot about any one > > point. > > > > > > > > > > > >

That's what I did as well. What I found good was get in your street car and adjust things to a comfortable position and then do measurements to the wheel, pedal, seat, etc. Angle of the wheel and seat are important as well. If you find any good links to racing cockpit design or related for real cars let me know and I will try and get them on the new website. "Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:dqrE9.25559$[email hidden]... > Cool Cool.. > Yeah, the pedals (if built) will go into a cockpit with a salvaged carseat. > It'll be laid out as close as I can dimension-wise to a genericstreet-car. > That's why I wanted to get the pedals right. I mainly simulate Rally cars, > or Live For Speed type cars.. > I'm going to go look at as many cars as I can and take somemeasurements...

Quoted text (14 lines)

> > Mike > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:9hrE9.210596$[email hidden]... > > That's what I figured you meant. Yes it's the pivot point that matters > for > > sure not the actual hinge point. > > In a street car for example they all hinge from the top but since most > have > > long arms most of the motion is relatively straight ahead and you don't > > notice much other movement. The gas pedal on most cars also typically > > pivots on the pad as well so the feeling is more of pushing down than

just

Quoted text (31 lines)

> > ahead. > > Another important thing to keep in mind is your seating position in > relation > > to the pedals. I use my pedals on a raised base so it is more in a > typical > > driving position with my racing seat as it would be in a car. Most mass > > produced sim pedals are design to work from a desk seating position flat > on > > the floor which is not ideal for racing. > > > > "Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:D9rE9.30049$[email hidden]... > > > I guess I'm using the terms differently, I didn't mean to do that. > > > > > > I"m talking about the PIVOT point.. either being above the pedal, like > on > > a > > > typical street car, or below the pedal, like in almost all retail > > > pedal/wheel combinations. > > > > > > Sorry about the confusion, But I 'm not talking about where the pedal > > itself > > > his hinged on the arm. I'm talking about where the arm itself pivots > from. > > > > > > Mike > > > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > > > > > "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > > news:XYpE9.210575$[email hidden]... > > > > I think it's more an issue of where the pedal pivots than where it

is > > > > hinged. > > > > The Momo pedals for example are hinged at the bottom, however they > pivot > > > in > > > > the center of the pad. The actual hinge point is even back underthe > > > pedal > > > > where your heel is. > > > > What you many want to end up with is a pedal that you push forwardin

Quoted text (11 lines)

> > some > > > > manner, not so much one that has a great deal of pivot about any one > > > point. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

Thanks Mike, gives me a fairly good idea of what you're doing. Since each pedal is going to have its own assembly, are they going to be spaced closely enough to blip the throttle while braking and clutching? That's what's keeping me from just adding the clutch my existing pedals, I can't apply the brake and blip the throttle at the same time with my right foot. Looking forward to seeing the prototype. Ken

"Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:YdrE9.210595$[email hidden]... > FYI - I am also in the planning stages of developing a new website/forumall > on racing sim hardware - from complete do it yourself links to production > unit mods and full production units. Trying to make a resource thatfocuses > just on the hardware/controller end of sim racing. > That is a very good idea. It's very hard to find certain information about controller hardware, and it would be great to have information and resources gathered in one place. When do you intend to launch this site? Jone http://tytlandsvik.no

Hopefully it will start to go live in the next few weeks. Just working out the design in my spare time now. The intent is not to duplicate sites like Racesimcentral and similar as the yare the best at what they do, but make one focused on the just the hardware side of things. There is lots of good information on the net, it just isn't always easy to find. There are also lots of good discussions around but not consolidated. Hopefully this new site will aid in doing that. If anyone has any suggestions on this please let me know and I will try to add what I can in. "Jone Tytlandsvik" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:aru20u$m72s1$[email hidden]...

Quoted text (7 lines)

> > "Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:YdrE9.210595$[email hidden]... > > > FYI - I am also in the planning stages of developing a new website/forum > all > > on racing sim hardware - from complete do it yourself links to

production

Quoted text (7 lines)

> > unit mods and full production units. Trying to make a resource that > focuses > > just on the hardware/controller end of sim racing. > > > > That is a very good idea. It's very hard to find certain information about > controller hardware, and it would be great to have information and

resources > gathered in one place. When do you intend to launch this site? > > Jone > http://tytlandsvik.no > >

"Schooner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:G%vE9.210725$[email hidden]... > Hopefully it will start to go live in the next few weeks. Just workingout > the design in my spare time now. > The intent is not to duplicate sites like Racesimcentral and similar asthe > yare the best at what they do, but make one focused on the just thehardware > side of things. There is lots of good information on the net, it justisn't > always easy to find. There are also lots of good discussions around butnot > consolidated. Hopefully this new site will aid in doing that. If anyone > has any suggestions on this please let me know and I will try to add whatI > can in. Please add a link to my site if you find it appropriate (http://tytlandsvik.no/momo). I was planning to build a link page on my site, but I may just link to you if you build a better link site than me. :) As you can see I have drawn schematics showing how the Logitech MOMO and MS Sidewinder are wired. I plan to add more schematics that can help people that intend to build their own pedals or modify things (Act Labs pedals schematic coming soon). If someone has a wiring sketch, or has "reverse engineered" their controller wiring, I'd be happy to draw a schematic and put it on my site. For instance I would be very interested in knowing weather the new momo is wired in the same way as the old one. BRD Speed7 wiring is also high on my list. Jone.

Mike Beauchamp wrote: > Hey all, > In a World Rally Car, are the pedals Hinged on the top or the bottom?? How > about an F1 car? Hi Mike, Just found an old pic of a '92 F1 Williams cockpit...pedals hinged at the bottom. Glenn

Ken, The pedals will be modular and spaced out on a threaded rod. So, you'd be able to move a few bolts and adjust the pedals however close or far apart you want them.. Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com "Ken MacKay" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Thanks Mike, gives me a fairly good idea of what you're doing. Since eachpedal > is going to have its own assembly, are they going to be spaced closelyenough > to blip the throttle while braking and clutching? That's what's keepingme > from just adding the clutch my existing pedals, I can't apply the brakeand blip > the throttle at the same time with my right foot. > > Looking forward to seeing the prototype. > Ken >

Reallly... hmm.. Thanks! Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com "Careful Hack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:7gyE9.83743$[email hidden]... > Mike Beauchamp wrote: > > > Hey all, > > In a World Rally Car, are the pedals Hinged on the top or the bottom??How

Quoted text (9 lines)

> > about an F1 car? > > Hi Mike, > > Just found an old pic of a '92 F1 Williams cockpit...pedals hinged at > the bottom. > > Glenn >

Reallly... hmm.. Thanks! Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com > > Hey all, > > In a World Rally Car, are the pedals Hinged on the top or the bottom?? How

Quoted text (8 lines)

> > about an F1 car? > Hi Mike, > Just found an old pic of a '92 F1 Williams***pit...pedals hinged at > the bottom. > Glenn

Take a look at http://www.technicalf1.com/article.php?sid=94 Near the bottom is a description of a bennetton pedal with a sketch. (bottom hinged as well). Some aftermarket racing pedals set are bottom as well (take a look at the drawing in pdf file) http://www.apracing.com/car/pedalbox/index.htm Ken Mike Beauchamp wrote:

Quoted text (30 lines)

> Reallly... hmm.. > > Thanks! > > Mike > http://mikebeauchamp.com > > "Careful Hack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:7gyE9.83743$[email hidden]... > >>Mike Beauchamp wrote: >> >> >>>Hey all, >>>In a World Rally Car, are the pedals Hinged on the top or the bottom?? >> > How > >>>about an F1 car? >> >>Hi Mike, >> >>Just found an old pic of a '92 F1 Williams cockpit...pedals hinged at >>the bottom. >> >>Glenn >> > > >

In article <r6nE9.29959$[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says... > >Hey all, >In a World Rally Car, are the pedals Hinged on the top >or the bottom?? How about an F1 car? Since I've just finished (mostly) building a simulator along the approximate dimensions of a modern F1 cockpit (and ending up something like this: http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels/others.htm#PaulM ...then I'll say I've spent a while looking at pedal arrangements in racing cars. The visit to the Geelong speed trials a week or two ago was very valuable. I've found that in 99.999% of cases, if you sit *on* a seat then the pedals are hinged at the top as in a street car. This is almost certainly the case with a World rally car. However, if you lie down as in the case of a Formula Ford, the locally run formula Holden, or the Formula 1, then the pedals always hinge from the bottom. I've used a bottom hinging design. I found in the local hardware store some "gate hinges" with springs inside the body of them. One part of the hinge bolts to the floor, the other bolts to the actual pedal. Neat and simple and no messing about with bungee cords. cheers... P.S. To Jone, the new Momo pedals have the same wiring as the PDF file of your site, except that the wire colours are different: Old Momo New Momo Yellow Green Brake value Blue Red +5 Orange White Gas value Brown Black Ground