My new water-cooled system!

I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, but decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) The results are a 2.3ghz 10.5 x 220fsb 1700+ cpu running at 54C fully loaded (prime95) at 1.875v core. It scores 5200 in 3dmark2003. These aren't incredibly impressive, but it was a very fun project for me to research and work on. I played Unreal2 last night at 1280x1024x32 with very smooth gameplay. The Abit NF7-S v2.0 is an excellent board! One major tip: Do not use an old-style non-P4-ready power supply in this sort of heavily-overclocked high-amperage system. I found this out the hard way today when the hardware monitor alarm went off and I smelt burning plastic. Pulling the ATX motherboard connector off, the 12v pin on the connector was charred and melted !! I think the older supplies and their connectors simply aren't designed to supply such high current to the 12v line. Luckily the newest nforce2 boards include the P4-type 12v connector. I bought an antec 430w truepower, and am back in business. rms

Thus spake Roger Squires: >I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, but >decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a >honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a >plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) Heh heh, good man! My reservoir is a five gallon bucket that formerly held pickles.

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>One major tip: Do not use an old-style non-P4-ready power supply in this >sort of heavily-overclocked high-amperage system. I found this out the hard >way today when the hardware monitor alarm went off and I smelt burning >plastic. Pulling the ATX motherboard connector off, the 12v pin on the >connector was charred and melted !! > >I think the older supplies and their connectors simply aren't designed to >supply such high current to the 12v line. Luckily the newest nforce2 boards >include the P4-type 12v connector. I bought an antec 430w truepower, and am >back in business.

Six amperes. That's all those pins on the ATX connector are good for. With no fans connected to the motherboard or no overclocking, 72 watts is enough. For the rest of us, that other 12 A is a necessity. P.S. Odd cross post. ? -- sls

"Roger Squires" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<OODsa.802$[email hidden]>...

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> I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, but > decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a > honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a > plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) > > The results are a 2.3ghz 10.5 x 220fsb 1700+ cpu running at 54C fully loaded > (prime95) at 1.875v core. It scores 5200 in 3dmark2003. These aren't > incredibly impressive, but it was a very fun project for me to research and > work on. I played Unreal2 last night at 1280x1024x32 with very smooth > gameplay. The Abit NF7-S v2.0 is an excellent board! > > One major tip: Do not use an old-style non-P4-ready power supply in this > sort of heavily-overclocked high-amperage system. I found this out the hard > way today when the hardware monitor alarm went off and I smelt burning > plastic. Pulling the ATX motherboard connector off, the 12v pin on the > connector was charred and melted !! > > I think the older supplies and their connectors simply aren't designed to > supply such high current to the 12v line. Luckily the newest nforce2 boards > include the P4-type 12v connector. I bought an antec 430w truepower, and am > back in business. > > rms

Nice! I'm about to jump into watercooling also, and this will be my first time. I've also got a Abit NF7-S rev2.0 board with a AX-7 & 80mm fan, Enermax 365w psu, and a 1800+ tbred-a. Currently I'm running it at [email hidden]. I have ambient temps of 22C and my load temps hover around 38C under load from Folding@Home. ;D I hope the watercooling setup will help me go higher. Currently considering the Maze3 block from hearing many good things about it and it's price is pretty good also. Cheers

In article <OODsa.802$[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says... > I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, but > decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a > honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a > plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) > I'm iin the process of converting my system over to water-cooling. I'm going slow though because I'm case modding as well. No lights or case window, but modifying the case for the radiator/fan ducting. I also got the Maze3 (and the Radeon waterblock from DangerDen as well). I chose a Via Aqua 1300 for my pump and will be using it inline. Eventually, I'll be moving all of the cooling components outside the case and into their own box.

>Currently considering the Maze3 block > from hearing many good things about it and it's price is pretty good I no longer think this is the best block on the market. The best seem to use what're called 'micro channels' to achieve better heat transfer to the water medium. Here is a review of one: http://www.overclockers.com/articles692/ rms

On Sat, 03 May 2003 00:11:27 GMT, "Roger Squires" <[email hidden]> wrote: >I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, but >decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a >honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a >plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) > How abourt a tropical fish tank ? Then you wouldn't need to run that fancy screen-saver..............would keep the fish warm too....... John Lewis

Hi Roger, is that temp measured by the motherboard's temp monitor, or by an external monitor? If it's the former, is that an nForce2 motherboard? TIA for the reply. Achim "Roger Squires" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:OODsa.802$[email hidden]... > I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, but > decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a > honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a > plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) > > The results are a 2.3ghz 10.5 x 220fsb 1700+ cpu running at 54C fullyloaded > (prime95) at 1.875v core.

> is that temp measured by the motherboard's temp monitor, or by an external > monitor? If it's the former, is that an nForce2 motherboard? Ya, builtin sensors on a abit nf7-s v2. When installing the cpu, I bent the temp diode up slightly to make certain it would be contacting the bottom of the cpu directly, and not have an air gap, so hopefully its reasonably accurate (it occurs to me I should have put a dab of thermal compound on the bottom of the cpu where it contacts the temp diode for more accuracy -- maybe next time). I'm now running at 10 x 230fsb, but benchmarks are about the same as 10.5 x 220, as I had to back the memory off from 6-3-3-2.0 to 7-3-2-2.0. 3dmark2003 score is 5200. Sound-wise, I now turn off the radiator fans when not gaming, and as I have no case fans the only noise in the system is from the water pump and hard drives. To reduce the hard drive whine I did a mod very similar to this one: http://www.silentpcreview.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=67&page=1 using 1/2" thick rubber sheeting to surround the HD mounting area, which dramatically cut down on the high-pitched whine. Without the radiator fans running, the system idles at about 52C(cpu) / 33C(system), a little high, but its perfectly happy at these temperatures, and I like the relative quiet! rms > > I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it,but

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> > decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a > > honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a > > plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) > > > > The results are a 2.3ghz 10.5 x 220fsb 1700+ cpu running at 54C fully > loaded > > (prime95) at 1.875v core. > >

John Simmons wrote:

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> > In article <OODsa.802$[email hidden]>, > [email hidden] says... > > I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, but > > decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a > > honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a > > plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) > > > > I'm iin the process of converting my system over to water-cooling. > I'm going slow though because I'm case modding as well. No lights or > case window, but modifying the case for the radiator/fan ducting. > > I also got the Maze3 (and the Radeon waterblock from DangerDen as > well). > > I chose a Via Aqua 1300 for my pump and will be using it inline. > > Eventually, I'll be moving all of the cooling components outside the > case and into their own box.

Tossing the idea around myself, but since I'm messing about with PC's all day, I want to keep it simple when doing work on my own PC's, so I'm considering this solution.. http://www.corsairmemory.com/main/hcv1.pdf Beers and cheers (uncle) Goy "goyl at nettx dot no" http://www.theuspits.com "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........" --Groucho Marx--

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

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> > > John Simmons wrote: > > > > In article <OODsa.802$[email hidden]>, > > [email hidden] says... > > > I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, but > > > decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a > > > honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a > > > plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) > > > > > > > I'm iin the process of converting my system over to water-cooling. > > I'm going slow though because I'm case modding as well. No lights or > > case window, but modifying the case for the radiator/fan ducting. > > > > I also got the Maze3 (and the Radeon waterblock from DangerDen as > > well). > > > > I chose a Via Aqua 1300 for my pump and will be using it inline. > > > > Eventually, I'll be moving all of the cooling components outside the > > case and into their own box. > > Tossing the idea around myself, but since I'm messing about with PC's > all day, I want to keep it simple when doing work on my own PC's, so I'm > considering this solution.. > > http://www.corsairmemory.com/main/hcv1.pdf >

You won't get nearly the performance that you will with a custom assembled system Goy. It's a lot of money to spend, and you'd really hate to get less for your money. My stuff is taking a long time to get going because I'm doing all kinds of case modding. It's certainly not necessary to do it the way I'm doing it. All you really need are pump $22 - $65 (depends on flow rate and brand) radiator $60 cpu water block $55 gpu water block $45 120mm fan for radiator $15-25 Incidentals (tubig clamps, distilled water and additive) $30 The hardest part is making it fit in your existing case. If you don't think it will fit, just buy a mini-tower case for $30 and put the rad and pump in it, and run tubing to your computer where the waterblocks live. Key concerns 1) Flow rate - the higher the better. Avoid using T-lines or other fittings that split the flow. Keep the number of fittings in the line to an absolute minimum. Also, maintain the same size fittings on ALL components (1/2 inch is recommended). 2) Cooling the radiator. Best cooling performance is achieved by pulling AND pushing cool air through the radiator (requires two fans of identical CFM rating). Position the fan(s) at least one inch from the radiator to eliminate/lessen the cooling "dead spot" created by the larger fan motor. Pabst 4212 fans are the norm in watercooling - they're real quiet, and they move a reasonable amount of air. 3) Use quality tubing (ClearFlex-60 or Tygon). It's less prone to kinking and doesn't dry out like the cheap crap you can get at the local hardware store. 4) Always used distilled water, and add something like HyperLube, PurpleIce, Water Wetter, or Zerex Racing Coolant to the water. If you want to get fancy, spend the money on a roomy case. The YY 0221 is nice, and the YYT-0441 is even bigger. They're cube cases and have more than enough room for a decent watercooing setup.

Thanks for the info Roger, cool stuff that water cooling stuff :) I've been thinking about going water cooling myself, but was always too lazy to actually implement it. However, my fan's noise gets to me, more annoying every day. Good idea about bending the temp measurement diode up - I'll have to do that as well next time around! Achim "Roger Squires" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:zeSua.144$[email hidden]... ... > Ya, builtin sensors on a abit nf7-s v2

Roger Squires wrote:

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>> is that temp measured by the motherboard's temp monitor, or by an >> external monitor? If it's the former, is that an nForce2 motherboard? > > Ya, builtin sensors on a abit nf7-s v2. When installing the cpu, I > bent > the temp diode up slightly to make certain it would be contacting the > bottom of the cpu directly, and not have an air gap, so hopefully its > reasonably accurate (it occurs to me I should have put a dab of thermal > compound on the bottom of the cpu where it contacts the temp diode for > more accuracy -- > maybe next time). I'm now running at 10 x 230fsb, but benchmarks are > about the same as 10.5 x 220, as I had to back the memory off from > 6-3-3-2.0 to > 7-3-2-2.0. 3dmark2003 score is 5200. > > Sound-wise, I now turn off the radiator fans when not gaming, and as I > have no case fans the only noise in the system is from the water pump and > hard drives. To reduce the hard drive whine I did a mod very similar to > this one: >

http://www.silentpcreview.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=67&page=1

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> using 1/2" thick rubber sheeting to surround the HD mounting area, which > dramatically cut down on the high-pitched whine. Without the radiator > fans running, the system idles at about 52C(cpu) / 33C(system), a little > high, but its perfectly happy at these temperatures, and I like the > relative quiet! > > rms > > >> > I was about to build my system using a SLK-900 with a 92mm fan on it, > but >> > decided to go for a water-cooled setup. I used a maze3 WB, a >> > honey-comb-type transmission radiator, a 300gph submersible pump, and a >> > plastic wallboard compound bucket for a reservoir :) >> > >> > The results are a 2.3ghz 10.5 x 220fsb 1700+ cpu running at 54C fully >> loaded >> > (prime95) at 1.875v core. >> >>

why not 7 volt mod your fans on the rad I run mine at that voltage and you have to put your hand in front to tell if there on, gaming is fine too at that speed on the fans. I run 2-120 mm fans though not sure what you have on your rad. -- Neil http://members.rogers.com/nasrott

John Simmons wrote:

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> > You won't get nearly the performance that you will with a custom > assembled system Goy. It's a lot of money to spend, and you'd really > hate to get less for your money. My stuff is taking a long time to > get going because I'm doing all kinds of case modding. It's > certainly not necessary to do it the way I'm doing it. > > All you really need are > > pump $22 - $65 (depends on flow rate and brand) > radiator $60 > cpu water block $55 > gpu water block $45 > 120mm fan for radiator $15-25 > Incidentals (tubig clamps, distilled water and additive) $30

Well, I only pay about 220 for that kit and it's ready to go :-) The thing is, running a computer shop means I'm surrounded by computers all effing day, and evenings too if I'm busy, "hard at work" (well, sometimes at least :-) fixing other people's computers, which is a decent way to make a living and I'm not complaining, but when I get home in the evening I really don't want to mess around too much with my own computer, so a turn key water cooling solution suits me just fine even if I do give up some peformance If I feel like messing about, I'll mess about with my car or something instead....which makes me wonder why I'm considering water cooling in the first place, but I did the Peltier cooler back when that was all the rage, including 7200 RPM Delta fans (ouch) and I figured I'd give it one easy go, just to see what it's all about and possibly sell a few kits down at the shop

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> The hardest part is making it fit in your existing case. If you don't > think it will fit, just buy a mini-tower case for $30 and put the rad > and pump in it, and run tubing to your computer where the waterblocks > live. > > 1) Flow rate - the higher the better. Avoid using T-lines or other > fittings that split the flow. Keep the number of fittings in the > line to an absolute minimum. Also, maintain the same size fittings > on ALL components (1/2 inch is recommended). > > 2) Cooling the radiator. Best cooling performance is achieved by > pulling AND pushing cool air through the radiator (requires two fans > of identical CFM rating). Position the fan(s) at least one inch from > the radiator to eliminate/lessen the cooling "dead spot" created by > the larger fan motor. Pabst 4212 fans are the norm in watercooling - > they're real quiet, and they move a reasonable amount of air. > > 3) Use quality tubing (ClearFlex-60 or Tygon). It's less prone to > kinking and doesn't dry out like the cheap crap you can get at the > local hardware store. > > 4) Always used distilled water, and add something like HyperLube, > PurpleIce, Water Wetter, or Zerex Racing Coolant to the water.

"Zerex" eh, that name rings a bell :-) > If you want to get fancy, spend the money on a roomy case. The YY > 0221 is nice, and the YYT-0441 is even bigger. They're cube cases > and have more than enough room for a decent watercooing setup. I'll probably build it into a Chieftec Midi Tower, they're fairly roomy, if not, they have a full tower that will surely do, but then it gets a little too big for my tastes http://www.arena-chieftec.com/?page=products_show&item=203&k_id=1&language=uk Beers and cheers (uncle) Goy "goyl at nettx dot no" http://www.theuspits.com "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........" --Groucho Marx--

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

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> > > John Simmons wrote: > > > > You won't get nearly the performance that you will with a custom > > assembled system Goy. It's a lot of money to spend, and you'd really > > hate to get less for your money. My stuff is taking a long time to > > get going because I'm doing all kinds of case modding. It's > > certainly not necessary to do it the way I'm doing it. > > > > All you really need are > > > > pump $22 - $65 (depends on flow rate and brand) > > radiator $60 > > cpu water block $55 > > gpu water block $45 > > 120mm fan for radiator $15-25 > > Incidentals (tubig clamps, distilled water and additive) $30 > > Well, I only pay about 220 for that kit and it's ready to go :-)

Nothing is ever "ready to go". :) My experience with "kits" is that they generally have to be modified anyway. Going the pices/parts route, the only hassle is getting the parts together. However, DangerDen sells a kit (several in fact), and they're having a sale right now - $174 for the whole shooting match (or $219 if you want to get a gpu waterblock too - gf4/radeon 9x00 only).

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> The thing is, running a computer shop means I'm surrounded by computers > all effing day, and evenings too if I'm busy, "hard at work" (well, > sometimes at least :-) fixing other people's computers, which is a > decent way to make a living and I'm not complaining, but when I get home > in the evening I really don't want to mess around too much with my own > computer, so a turn key water cooling solution suits me just fine even > if I do give up some peformance > > If I feel like messing about, I'll mess about with my car or something > instead....which makes me wonder why I'm considering water cooling in > the first place, but I did the Peltier cooler back when that was all the > rage, including 7200 RPM Delta fans (ouch) and I figured I'd give it one > easy go, just to see what it's all about and possibly sell a few kits > down at the shop

Don't kid yourself Goy - adding watercooling is gonna be a hassel, no matter how you buy your parts. :)

John Simmons wrote: > > Nothing is ever "ready to go". :) How true.... > My experience with "kits" is that they generally have to be modified > anyway. Going the pices/parts route, the only hassle is getting the > parts together. However, DangerDen sells a kit (several in fact), > and they're having a sale right now - $174 for the whole shooting > match (or $219 if you want to get a gpu waterblock too - gf4/radeon > 9x00 only). Yeah, but one of the reasons for picking this one is that I can get it from one of my regular distributors, as well as getting some personal experience with it before I start selling it at the shop, I'm not looking for the ultimate watercooling solution, I jus want to dabble a little and see how things work, in which case a "turn key" solution is a perfect start > Don't kid yourself Goy - adding watercooling is gonna be a hassel, no > matter how you buy your parts. > > :) Actually, by purchasing a "turn key" solution, I *can* kid myself into thinking it's not going to be a hassle :-) Beers and cheers (uncle) Goy "goyl at nettx dot no" http://www.theuspits.com "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........" --Groucho Marx--