My T2 is DEAD! Calling all T2-doctors!

My trusty old Thrustmaster T2 is DEAD! Don't want to throw it out though, and can't afford a new wheel right now. I want to bring it back from the dead... -First the bungee went (bushings <crumbled>, bungee stretched so thin it's not even funny) -then the brake-pedal spring got stretched somehow and doesn't return to "0" after using it, so my throttle position is thrown off by the brake still being depressed part-way. - And now Windows won't even recognize my T2 anymore (in the Control Panel -> Game Controllers) - Upon further inspection using the TMscope utility, I discovered that my pedals are recognized (y-axis shows proper movement) but absolutely NO wheel (x-axis) motion is recognized. Hmmmm... - Upon even further inspection, I now realize that my Button#1 (downshift) is no longer working. Could this be the reason why the wheel isn't recognized in the Control Panel?? (not all buttons recognized..therefore it doesn't fit the profile?.. though i can't get it to work under "custom" either!) I removed the shift-mechanism from the wheel base, and inspected it. The wires all look fine, but the "switch" for the Button#1 does not work, even when manually pressed. I emailed Thrustmaster/Guilemot Tech Support and they said i'd have to get the part from Radio Shit or something as they don't have them any more. Am wondering though if it is something else- There are a bunch of different coloured wires coming into the wheel unit--- two of which are NOT attached to anything: an ORANGE wire, and a BLACK wire. What are these for? Anyone got a wiring diagram for the T2? While I'm at it, i think i may as well split the pedal axis. I have no clue about electronics ... How hard is this procedure? Can any idiot like myself do it? Thanks in advance for any info & or tips (like what to use as substitute springs/bungees) you can pass along. BTW.. GPL is undriveable with a digital gamepad or digital joystick.... I'm going (even more) insane now ... need wheel back alive! R. Hashana

Dig a hole and bury it, you cannot expect to get consistent laps with such a wheel, a year ago I was in the same boat, I tried new pots, new springs and sprayed it with magic oils, trying to get 1 more day out of it , but to no avail! I now have a TSW with spec pots, I had to scrimp and save for it but it is worth it, make the next step and get a quality wheel unit. :-)) -- Jeff Eiland #51 Georgia Boot http://www.georgiaboot.com/ http://paladinracing.ware.net - - Sign up for imandi Rewards! You'll save time, hassle and money on your important purchases, plus earn big bucks when your friends sign up. There's no obligation. Go to http://www.imandi.com/go/run.dll?Rewards&ref=vinylman.

Maybe some help by getting there: http://huizen.dds.nl/~jjcox/ the t2 upgrade page ...

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> Dig a hole and bury it, you cannot expect to get consistent laps with such a > wheel, a year ago I was in the same boat, I tried new pots, new springs and > sprayed it with magic oils, trying to get 1 more day out of it , but to no > avail! > I now have a TSW with spec pots, I had to scrimp and save for it but it is > worth it, make the next step and get a quality wheel unit. :-)) > -- > Jeff Eiland > #51 Georgia Boot > http://www.georgiaboot.com/ > http://paladinracing.ware.net > - - Sign up for imandi Rewards! You'll save time, hassle and money on your > important purchases, plus earn big bucks when your friends sign up. > There's no obligation. Go to > http://www.imandi.com/go/run.dll?Rewards&ref=vinylman. > > My trusty old Thrustmaster T2 is DEAD! Don't want to throw it out though, > > and can't afford a new wheel right now. > > I want to bring it back from the dead... > > -First the bungee went (bushings <crumbled>, bungee stretched so thin it's > > not even funny) > > -then the brake-pedal spring got stretched somehow and doesn't return to > "0" > > after using it, so my throttle position is thrown off by the brake still > > being depressed part-way. > > - And now Windows won't even recognize my T2 anymore (in the Control > > Panel -> Game Controllers) > > - Upon further inspection using the TMscope utility, I discovered that my > > pedals are recognized (y-axis shows proper movement) but absolutely NO > wheel > > (x-axis) motion is recognized. Hmmmm... > > - Upon even further inspection, I now realize that my Button#1 (downshift) > > is no longer working. > > Could this be the reason why the wheel isn't recognized in the Control > > Panel?? (not all buttons recognized..therefore it doesn't fit the > profile?.. > > though i can't get it to work under "custom" either!) > > I removed the shift-mechanism from the wheel base, and inspected it. > > The wires all look fine, but the "switch" for the Button#1 does not work, > > even when manually pressed. > > I emailed Thrustmaster/Guilemot Tech Support and they said i'd have to get > > the part from Radio Shit or something as they don't have them any more. > > Am wondering though if it is something else- > > There are a bunch of different coloured wires coming into the wheel > unit--- > > two of which are NOT attached to anything: > > an ORANGE wire, and a BLACK wire. What are these for? > > Anyone got a wiring diagram for the T2? While I'm at it, i think i may as > > well split the pedal axis. > > I have no clue about electronics ... How hard is this procedure? Can any > > idiot like myself do it? > > Thanks in advance for any info & or tips (like what to use as substitute > > springs/bungees) you can pass along. > > BTW.. GPL is undriveable with a digital gamepad or digital joystick.... > > I'm going (even more) insane now ... need wheel back alive! > > R. Hashana

the cable gets bent and over a few years will loose contact when in certain positions. When that happened to me and I was desperate for a quick fix, i found that it was indeed a bad section of cable. I cut the bad chunk out and reconnected the wires.. In other words.. shortened the cable by 2 inches. Try going to control panel, joystick settings. move around the cable till the ok appears.(problem is usually near or at the point where the cable actually goes into the wheel's base) If not then feel free to email me. Maybe some help by getting there: http://huizen.dds.nl/~jjcox/ the t2 upgrade page ... Dig a hole and bury it, you cannot expect to get consistent laps with such a wheel, a year ago I was in the same boat, I tried new pots, new springs and sprayed it with magic oils, trying to get 1 more day out of it , but to no avail! I now have a TSW with spec pots, I had to scrimp and save for it but it is worth it, make the next step and get a quality wheel unit. :-)) -- Jeff Eiland #51 Georgia Boot http://www.georgiaboot.com/ http://paladinracing.ware.net - - Sign up for imandi Rewards! You'll save time, hassle and money on your important purchases, plus earn big bucks when your friends sign up. There's no obligation. Go to http://www.imandi.com/go/run.dll?Rewards&ref=vinylman.

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> My trusty old Thrustmaster T2 is DEAD! Don't want to throw it out though, > and can't afford a new wheel right now. > I want to bring it back from the dead... > > -First the bungee went (bushings <crumbled>, bungee stretched so thin it's > not even funny) > -then the brake-pedal spring got stretched somehow and doesn't return to

"0"

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> after using it, so my throttle position is thrown off by the brake still > being depressed part-way. > - And now Windows won't even recognize my T2 anymore (in the Control > Panel -> Game Controllers) > > - Upon further inspection using the TMscope utility, I discovered that my > pedals are recognized (y-axis shows proper movement) but absolutely NO

wheel > (x-axis) motion is recognized. Hmmmm... > > - Upon even further inspection, I now realize that my Button#1 (downshift) > is no longer working. > Could this be the reason why the wheel isn't recognized in the Control > Panel?? (not all buttons recognized..therefore it doesn't fit the profile?..

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> though i can't get it to work under "custom" either!) > > I removed the shift-mechanism from the wheel base, and inspected it. > The wires all look fine, but the "switch" for the Button#1 does not work, > even when manually pressed. > I emailed Thrustmaster/Guilemot Tech Support and they said i'd have to get > the part from Radio Shit or something as they don't have them any more. > > Am wondering though if it is something else- > There are a bunch of different coloured wires coming into the wheel

unit---

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> two of which are NOT attached to anything: > an ORANGE wire, and a BLACK wire. What are these for? > > Anyone got a wiring diagram for the T2? While I'm at it, i think i may as > well split the pedal axis. > I have no clue about electronics ... How hard is this procedure? Can any > idiot like myself do it? > > Thanks in advance for any info & or tips (like what to use as substitute > springs/bungees) you can pass along. > > BTW.. GPL is undriveable with a digital gamepad or digital joystick.... > I'm going (even more) insane now ... need wheel back alive! > > R. Hashana > >