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Modifying Pedals - need help

11 posts by 6 people · 14 Dec 1999 - 17 Dec 1999

GTX_SlotCar 14 Dec 1999#508573
100k ohms usually (100,000 ohms), but some are 50k and others 220k. But usually 100k. No Radio Shack stores in Sydney? I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me, do you need all 3 pins? Slot
Piper 15 Dec 1999#508820
Some time ago I bought a wheel / pedal combo from an Australian firm called the Advantage 1, (A1). Recently I purchased the Logitech FF and share the views of many that the pedals could be improved. The A1 as it happens has superb pedals, so I've decided to customise them to fit in with my Wingman. My problem is getting the correct potentiometers here in Sydney. I could use the ones fitted to the Wingman however some mods would be needed to make them fit in the AI pedal assembly so I think I'll put new ones in. The ones in the A1 although of excellent quality are not able to be configured to support split axis, 2 connection points only. Can anyone advise the specs of correct potentiometers. From what I've seen you need 100 ohms (I think) then there is some watt rating and a volt rating. Afraid the markings on the ones I have give no glue at all. All the ones I've seen have different specs so I'm a bit confounded. TIA Piper
Piper 15 Dec 1999#508821
I found a site that mentions 100 kohms. I've seen these in a local electronic store., however they mention things like V250 W??? etc. I have no idea what this means. If I just had to pick 100 kohms it would be a damm sight easier :) Known as Tandy in this country I believe. The local store does not stock these items. Perhaps a larger store in town might have them. Is there a specific part number you know of? I'm assuming to take advantage of split axis it is necessary to wire up all 3 pins in the same way they are currently wired in the Wingman. Maybe wrong?. Tks Piper
R McAuliff 15 Dec 1999#508822
It's not necessary to have three lugs on the pots to run dual axis, but it may simply be the way that Logitech decided to connect it up. The sites to check out for all this are: http://www.monmouth.com/~lw4750/ [address restored] http://www.student.oulu.fi/~heinanen/wheel.html [address restored] [link lost in import] I'd suggest sticking with the original A1 pots, following the diagrams on the web. Only problem is knowing how Logitech have hooked them up. Other alternative (probably better) is to get a multimeter, and measure the resistance of the Logitech pots, and get the same. If it aint the same, you'd probably have probs with drivers, etc. I'd suggest*** Smith or some other electronics shop. Tandy don't have enough range of stock. Check out the diagrams from above sites. Best of luck. My pedals (Saitek R4) were pretty bad, bud it was mainly the lack of travel. Chopped in with a hacksaw, no more troubles. Doubled the travel, the diiference was incredible. R Mc * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free!
GTX_SlotCar 15 Dec 1999#508823
100K potentiometer, linear taper, Radio Shack catalog # 271-092 . Still, I don't think you need all 3 posts on the pots, just the center and left (for example). So, on a standard game port, the center post on both gas and brake go to pin 9 of the port. The left post of the gas goes to pin 11 and the left post of the brake to pin 6. I've heard that some systems won't recognize the pedals with adding a pot for clutch support (doesn't have to be used, just in there) with the center post of the clutch pot to pin 15 and the left post to pin 13. For single axis, left post of brake pot to pin 6, center post of brake pot to left post of gas pot, center post of gas pot to pin 9. Of course, it you do not have the gas pot mirroring the brake pot (facing each other but rotating forward) you would use the right post instead of the left, etc. The nice thing about this is that you can later switch the pots around and use the 'other side' of the sweep, getting longer life out of them. Shadio Rack pots are cheap ($1.49 in the US) but I think they still hold up reasonably well. I managed a RS store in the early 70s. A simple DPDT switch can be used to switch between dual and single axis. The easiest conversion for you would be to take the wiring harness out of the Logitech and put it into the Advantage, then you'll have access to the right pins. If I made a mistake here, someone correct me (LOL I'm sure you will). I'm going by memory. Slot
Jaz 15 Dec 1999#508824
I am just curious, why go through all the trouble of modifing the pots. Couldn't you just use the USB port for the LWFF wheel and keep your Advantage1 pedals on the game port and re-configure the game port ID in the Control Panel? Like Alison and other have done with their Wheel/Pedal combos. Jaz Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy.
Chris Squie 16 Dec 1999#509079
My friend moved the entire LWFF pedal wiring into his old TM Pro pedals. He had to rearrange some of the wires because one of the pots rotates the opposite direction when in the TM. It worked fine except that the whole pedal travel doesn't register. The values go from 1 to 655 in about 3/4 of the pedal travel. It is an improvement but still not the best. I will try to figure out if there is a way to use different pots to gain the full travel. Chris BTW - The logitech pedals are wired to all three connections on the pots.
Piper 17 Dec 1999#509293
>You don't need 3 lugs to wire a dual-axis pedal system. Take a look at my >site for wiring details etc.. >http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels >Cheers...Mark Excellent site Mark, has cleared up most of my questions except, nowhere have I found reference to the type of pots required other than 100k ohms. Is there a voltage or wattage requirement?. All the pots I've seen that are 100k ohms also have these figures and I'm unsure which one to pick. I see now I can get by with using pots with 2 lugs to get dual access. Unfortunately I feel that the Wingman drivers wont be happy as they switch from single to dual through software hence the use of all 3 lugs. see http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/simracingmag/eric6.html Tks Piper
Piper 17 Dec 1999#509294
On Wed, 15 Dec 1999 04:02:38 -0800, R McAuliffe >It's not necessary to have three lugs on the pots to run dual axis, but >it may simply be the way that Logitech decided to connect it up. The >sites to check out for all this are: >http://www.monmouth.com/~lw4750/ [address restored] >http://www.student.oulu.fi/~heinanen/wheel.html [address restored] >[link lost in import] Tks, very useful, I found this site extremely helpful also, [link lost in import] I'll get new pots I think. The driver issue does concern me. Might get a multimeter for Xmas, I can see it being of use. Your right there, I've tried*** Smith they have the pots however they have other markings such as watts and volts, which ones?. Tks Piper
Piper 17 Dec 1999#509295
Quoted text (7 lines)>I am just curious, why go through all the trouble of modifing the pots. >Couldn't you just use the USB port for the LWFF wheel and keep your >Advantage1 pedals on the game port and re-configure the game port ID in >the Control Panel? Like Alison and other have done with their >Wheel/Pedal combos. >Jaz
I did consider this as I do have a set of CH Pro Pedals. I guess that with these the Wingman pedals and the A1 pedals it was a bit much. Besides I find it an interesting project that I'm sure will result in enhanced game play not to mention being easier to vacuum under my desk :). Cheers Piper

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