I just purchased a NASCAR Wheel from Thrustmaster (Wheel, pedals,
stick). I installed the drivers and found that the wheel was very
unresponsive. I had to crank the thing (great feel on the wheel,
though!) to get it to turn at all. When I went to set the sensitivity
in the Properties I found the software virtually useless.
Just to backtrack a little, I bought my fiancee' a Thrustmaster (F1?--it
was the wheel only with paddles) and found that the driver for THAT
wheel was far more responsive. If I set it up for high sensitivity it
was VERY sensitive and vice versa.
But the driver for the new wheel seems to have no effect. If I set the
wheel with very little travel, it seems to respond the same as with full
travel on the wheel.
When I used the driver for the OLD wheel the sensitivity changes worked
great! HOWEVER, now the acceleration and brakes sometimes stick
(randomly).
I could find no drivers for this wheel on Thrustmaster's site. Does
anybody have any ideas?
I have been using tm for quite a while and stopped using their Propanel and do
basic calibration in the windows control panel. Also you might try different
techniques while calibrating. Turn the wheel say 90' to each side and if its
not sensitive enough (your case) then simply turn the wheel less, say 60', or
if it's too sensitive turn the wheel more. There are programs available that
modifies the way windows/dos processes this info as well.
JM
Just noticed a good link in a post under
SCGT control problems. This is one program that modify's more deeply.
JM
> Just noticed a good link in a post under
> SCGT control problems. This is one program that modify's more deeply.
> JM
Thanks for the advice. I tried the technique you described in the other
post but I'll check out that program. Thanks.
This might be worth checking out.
When I got my third Nascar Pro wheel (yep. third), it had some serious
sensitivity problems. The most noticeable was at Dega, where you gentlly
drift up out of the corners. With no wheel input changes, the car would
rocket right up into the wall, just alike a tire blew.
What I found was the coupler that goes onto and around the shaft of the POT
was not crimped tightly onto the pot, and there was an incredible amount of
'free play' in the connection.
I took a big ol' set of vice grips and clamped the collor down around the
pot shaft, and it's been ok since.
Some play is mandatory, and the collor must slide back and forth a bit to
keep the pot from getting fragged.
Weak design. Very weak design.
-Larry
