Can the GP1 be easily modified to use throttle and brake on
different axis? I'm slowly improving my lap times in GPL, and sooner
or later having throttle and brake on the same axis will become a
serious disadvantage. Otherwise I'm happy enough with the wheel, and
I wouldn't like to invest $200+ to a TSW just yet.
-as
Your Thrustmaster GP1 can be modified to have split axis quite easily, but
you will need to replace the wireing harness (cable) with one that has the
correct number of wires.. I used one from an old controller. You can leave
the wheel-to-base-unit cable as is, but one additional wire is required here
as well, so you may want to do what I did and replace it with something more
sturdy, hardwiring it in rather than using the DIN connector.
I'll see if I can dig out my original message about how to do this.. Ahh
here it is:
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You will have to take apart the GP1, including removing the wheel and the
cover on the back of the wheel. Basically, the GP1 cable/connector needs
to be replaced, and one wire added between the steering wheel and base unit.
This web site has a brilliantly done and very helpfull electrical schematic
on the 'electrical' page:
http://www.monmouth.com/~lw4750/ [address restored]
I am leaving out the details of taking apart the GP1 base unit and wheel,
which you must do to get at the GP1 cable wires... Also, I am leaving out
any reference to wire colour, because manufacturers do not use the same wire
colours consistantly through a product's production run.
-----------------------------------
The Cable Replacement:
You will probably have to replace the 15 pin D plug and cable as the
standard GP1 cable does not have any wires connected to the connector's
Joystick 2 pins (mine didn't..). I Got my new cable from a s***
joystick... You need one that has a wire connected to pin 11.. (which is
Joystick 2 - X axis). Test each pin and make a chart listing what color
wire connects to which pin on the D connector. Test each pin on the
GP1connector and make a column on your chart that lists what pins go to
which colour wires of the old cable. Cut all the GP1 wires (gulp!) a couple
of inches from where they enter the cable, Using your colour/pin chart you
can now connect the wires to the correct pins of the new cable, _except_ for
the pin 11 wire (joystick 2 - X axis) of the new cable, which should connect
to the wire coming from the wheel unit ***that was previously connected to
the +5v pin (pin 9, 8, or1)***.
Also note that more than one wire goes to a pin that is +5v (eg: 1 wire from
base buttons, one from steering pot, one from wheel unit, etc.). It's ok to
connect them together to the same +5v pin (Pin 1, 8, or 9) if you need to.
-------------------------------------------------------
Adding the wire to the Wheel assembly:
With the backing plate off of the wheel, you will see that both pots have
two of their 3 posts soldered together and both pot's post pairs (wow.. try
saying that three times quickly!) are connected with a wire. Solder a new
durable (but flexible!) wire to the one of the pairs of posts (doesn't
matter which one). Drill a hole in the base unit right beside the wheel
unit's Din connector (I used some pointy scissors..), and run the new wire
(about 18" long) down the middle of the curly cord and through the new hole,
and connect it to +5v (eg: any wire going to pin 1, 8, or 9).
It sounds more complicated than it is.. Just be neat, use heat shrink
tubing for all your soldered connections, and test each pin on the connector
to confirm it is correctly hooked up. Oh yea, remember that you will have to
re-set your racing games' controller setups.
Happy racing,
=rez=
