Logitech Wingman to CH Pedals Wiring Swap

Hi Phillip, The grittyness you feel is indeed the cables inside the wheel, it does seem a bit strange at first, but I don't even notice it anymore. It did feel much better to me than the Microsoft wheel, which uses gears instead of cables, I could feel the slop in the gears which drove me nuts! The wiring switch is very easy, and if you prepare your tools, it shouldn't take much more than 30 minutes to do the job and be back on the track. This is what I did for my CH (non-pro) pedals. I removed the wiring harness from the Logitech pedals after making a diagram of which colored wire attached to which point on the pots. In order to use this harness with the CH pedals, I had to make extensions for each wire so as to leave the Logitech harness in it's original configuration, I might want to restore it some day. I made 6 extensions approx 6 inches long with a male connector on one end and a female connector on the other. I also had to cut some little channels into the CH pedal base for the wires to pass through without getting crimped inside the base. Attach the extensions to the wiring harness on one end, and the pots on the other, seal up the wires and you're just about ready to race. The only other thing you need to deal with is the power cable. I went the simple route, plugged the power cable in and stuffed the whole works into the pedal base so, at this time I cannot unplug the pedals. A more elegant solution would be to simply cut a hole for the plug and attach it in place with Hot Glue or maybe silicone so you could remove it if necessary. One item of note, when attaching the wires to the brake pot on the CH pedals, they must be wired in reverse order from the Logitech pot because the CH pot travels in the reverse direction. This may differ in other pedal sets, so don't seal up the base until you've tested the pedals. If you've tired of the short throw of the Wingman pedals, give the CH pedals a try. I'm finding it much easier to control wheelspin and lockups with these pedals and as a result, my laptimes are slowly improving again. don

I agree with you Don, very easy to do and very much worth it, I wired my T2 pedals into my new Logitech Wingman FF pedal wiring harness and it only took about 30 minutes to do, now I have a great combo of great FF wheel + great pedals, and the T2 pedals are much more stable in calibration wired into the LWFF than they ever were wired into the T2 wheel. Note: the LWFF wheel cable setup is pretty neat and *very* strong, it doesn't look like slack will be a problem. (I took my new wheel apart only hours after purchasing it to see how it worked, dismantling it all the way down to parts, a pain to put back together but I just had to know how it worked :-) Seeyas on the track. --John (Joao) Silva

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>Hi Phillip, >The grittyness you feel is indeed the cables inside the wheel, it does seem >a bit strange at first, but I don't even notice it anymore. It did feel much >better to me than the Microsoft wheel, which uses gears instead of cables, I >could feel the slop in the gears which drove me nuts! >The wiring switch is very easy, and if you prepare your tools, it shouldn't >take much more than 30 minutes to do the job and be back on the track.

SNIP!

>>If you've tired of the short throw of the Wingman pedals, give the CH pedals >>a try. I'm finding it much easier to control wheelspin and lockups with >>these pedals and as a result, my laptimes are slowly improving again. >What's the advantage of doing this mod vs. just using the CH pedals on >the joystick port and wheel on the USB port? Works fine for me! I've been doing it for about 3 months now! Only advantages I can think of as far as wiring them together would be: 1) It would save space underneath your desk (wont have 2 sets of pedals under there) 2) The setup would work in games other than GPL Dont do it! It would be woth screwing up your warranty! Thats my deal, if I wired them up together I wouldnt be able to use them with my flight sims.

I wanted one solution that would work for all the *** I do, and as I only own driving sims, this works for me. Besides, I wouldn't be able to switch back and forth between pedal sets before I threw one or the other out a window. As for the warrenty problem, that's why I leave the original wiring harness intact. The pedals can be restored to new in less than 15 minutes. I wonder what Logitech would charge for the wiring harness alone? >>If you've tired of the short throw of the Wingman pedals, give the CH pedals

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>>a try. I'm finding it much easier to control wheelspin and lockups with >>these pedals and as a result, my laptimes are slowly improving again. >What's the advantage of doing this mod vs. just using the CH pedals on >the joystick port and wheel on the USB port? >I'm not crazy about the Logitech pedals, but I have a couple of >issues... >First, I just got my wheel, and it has 11 months worth of warranty >left. >The other thing is that I want to use the CH pedals for other stuff >-namely Mechwarrior 3 and Heavy Gear 2. I want to use the pedals for >chassis control, but I *don't* want to be connecting stuff together >then find out I'm stuck using the wheel to steer the torso. :-) >Thanks! >Tim

don motor racing is life condensed around a moment...choose your moment

>If you've tired of the short throw of the Wingman pedals, give the CH pedals >a try. I'm finding it much easier to control wheelspin and lockups with >these pedals and as a result, my laptimes are slowly improving again. What's the advantage of doing this mod vs. just using the CH pedals on the joystick port and wheel on the USB port? I'm not crazy about the Logitech pedals, but I have a couple of issues... First, I just got my wheel, and it has 11 months worth of warranty left. The other thing is that I want to use the CH pedals for other stuff -namely Mechwarrior 3 and Heavy Gear 2. I want to use the pedals for chassis control, but I *don't* want to be connecting stuff together then find out I'm stuck using the wheel to steer the torso. :-) Thanks! Tim