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Steering wheel recommendation

20 posts by 12 people · 07 Jun 1999 - 11 Jun 1999

Budget steering wheel recommendations

A poster asked for a cheap wheel compatible with SCGT, GPL, Viper Racing and TOCA 2. The Mad Catz Andretti wheel was recommended for its price and quality, though it lacks split pedal axes. John Bodin and Craig Galbraith clarified which ACT Labs RS configurations support split axes, and posters explained how to test for split axes and rewire a Thrustmaster T2.

hardware: wheels/pedals

Automated summary.

O'Connor 07 Jun 1999#472384
Can anyone recommend a cheap steering wheel? Not necessarily force feedback, but something compatible with SCGT, GPL, Viper and TOCA2.
DAVID 07 Jun 1999#472385
Well, I am playing SCGT and am very happy with my Andretti wheel. My sound card on the other hand sucks. Dave
O'Connor 07 Jun 1999#472388
Thanks everyone, I'll try to track one down here in Australia. I've seen mad catz wheels before, so the Andretti one must be about somewhere.
Quoted text (18 lines)> If price is an object and you want quality and performance, check out > our review of the Andretti Racing Wheel: > http://irlinsider.adnetweb.com/sims/mcaw/ > For $69, it's hard to beat in terms of quality and performance. > -- John Bodin > Publisher, The IRL Insider Magazine > http://irlinsider.adnetweb.com/ > Can anyone recommend a cheap steering wheel? Not necessarily force > feedback, > >but something compatible with SCGT, GPL, Viper and TOCA2.
Is the Andretti wheel really that good?! Seems like a bargin - there has to be a hook somewhere! :) If it brakes, will they send you replacement parts for free like Thrustmaster do? And does anyone know of the shipping cost to Sweden? Or is it available somewhere in Europe? Please let me know as soon as possible! :) Ciaooooooo! ;) --Roland
Oh, just realized that the wheel has no dual-axis support for throttle and brake... ( Too bad - trailbraking is what makes me go fast in GPL, so I can't live without that. Ciao! :) -- Roland
Quoted text (8 lines)>Is the Andretti wheel really that good?! Seems like a bargin - there has to >be a hook somewhere! :) If it brakes, will they send you replacement parts >for free like Thrustmaster do? And does anyone know of the shipping cost to >Sweden? Or is it available somewhere in Europe? Please let me know as soon >as possible! :) >Ciaooooooo! ;) >--Roland
Ken Beard 07 Jun 1999#472391
That's the only thing I've seen bad about it - a shame, as the rest of it looks excellent for the price. My TM NASCAR Pro is still going strong, but the Andretti wheel looks like it might be better other than the lack of dual axis support. -- Ken's Sig 3.0 "Who is the more foolish? The fool, or the fool who follows him?" - Obi-Wan Kenobi Go #43 and #44! volksy (at) geocities (dot) com volksy (at) yahoo (dot) com >Oh, just realized that the wheel has no dual-axis support for throttle and >brake... >( >Too bad - trailbraking is what makes me go fast in GPL, so I can't live without that. >Ciao! :) >-- Roland >>Is the Andretti wheel really that good?! Seems like a bargin - there has to >>be a hook somewhere! :) If it brakes, will they send you replacement parts >>for free like Thrustmaster do? And does anyone know of the shipping cost to >>Sweden? Or is it available somewhere in Europe? Please let me know as soon >>as possible! :) >>Ciaooooooo! ;) >>--Roland
Greg Cisko 07 Jun 1999#472392
Why not consider the Logitech or ACT Labs wheel? -- Header address intentionally scrambled to ward off the spamming hordes. cisko [AT] ix [DOT] netcom [DOT] com >That's the only thing I've seen bad about it - a shame, as the rest of it >looks excellent for the price. >My TM NASCAR Pro is still going strong, but the Andretti wheel looks like it >might be better other than the lack of dual axis support. >-- >Ken's Sig 3.0 >"Who is the more foolish? The fool, or the fool who follows him?" - Obi-Wan >Kenobi >Go #43 and #44! >volksy (at) geocities (dot) com >volksy (at) yahoo (dot) com >>Oh, just realized that the wheel has no dual-axis support for throttle and >>brake... >>( >>Too bad - trailbraking is what makes me go fast in GPL, so I can't live without that. >>Ciao! :) >>-- Roland >>>Is the Andretti wheel really that good?! Seems like a bargin - there has to >>>be a hook somewhere! :) If it brakes, will they send you replacement parts >>>for free like Thrustmaster do? And does anyone know of the shipping cost to >>>Sweden? Or is it available somewhere in Europe? Please let me know as soon >>>as possible! :) >>>Ciaooooooo! ;) >>>--Roland
John Bodin 08 Jun 1999#472655
The ACT Labs wheel is excellent, too -- maybe the BEST pedals I've ever seen this side of the TSW pedals. Plus split-axis support. Still, you're stuck with using a game port, and unless you're interested in using the RS PDPI cartridge and the PDPI L4 digital game port, you won't get the same precision you can with the Andretti Racing Wheel -- and you're stuck with the ACT Labs paddle shifters (the RS shifter will be another $50). Overall, I think the ACT Labs/PDPI combo may be THE setup for GPL, especially when the shifter comes out. Still, all that adds up to almost as much as a TSW2, so that's getting well beyond the "cheap" range. As I said, though, the ACT Labs RS wheel by itself (sans the PDPI cartridge and the PDPI card itself) is a VERY nice wheel -- the only area where it comes in behind the Andretti Wheel is in the precision-versus-cost category. -- JB On Mon, 7 Jun 1999 17:49:21 -0500, "Greg Cisko"
Quoted text (49 lines)>Why not consider the Logitech or ACT Labs wheel? >-- >Header address intentionally scrambled to ward off the spamming hordes. >cisko [AT] ix [DOT] netcom [DOT] com >>That's the only thing I've seen bad about it - a shame, as the rest of it >>looks excellent for the price. >>My TM NASCAR Pro is still going strong, but the Andretti wheel looks like >it >>might be better other than the lack of dual axis support. >>-- >>Ken's Sig 3.0 >>"Who is the more foolish? The fool, or the fool who follows him?" - >Obi-Wan >>Kenobi >>Go #43 and #44! >>volksy (at) geocities (dot) com >>volksy (at) yahoo (dot) com >>>Oh, just realized that the wheel has no dual-axis support for throttle and >>>brake... >>>( >>>Too bad - trailbraking is what makes me go fast in GPL, so I can't live without that. >>>Ciao! :) >>>-- Roland >>>>Is the Andretti wheel really that good?! Seems like a bargin - there has to >>>>be a hook somewhere! :) If it brakes, will they send you replacement parts >>>>for free like Thrustmaster do? And does anyone know of the shipping cost to >>>>Sweden? Or is it available somewhere in Europe? Please let me know as soon >>>>as possible! :) >>>>Ciaooooooo! ;) >>>>--Roland
Couldn't I use my Thrustmaster pedals (with split axis) with an Andretti wheel? I have the PDPI L4. Anyone? -- Roland
John Bodin 08 Jun 1999#472657
By using the multiple game ports on the PDPI card, I think you could do this. Keep in mind that the Andretti Wheel won't work with the PDPI card, though (I don't think so, anyway -- never tried it . . . ), so you'll have to rely on USB support for the Andretti Wheel and the PDPI card for the TM pedals. Sounds complicated to me. -- JB >Couldn't I use my Thrustmaster pedals (with split axis) with an Andretti >wheel? I have the PDPI L4. >Anyone? >-- Roland
ddjhenri 08 Jun 1999#472658
I missed that one....does the ACT LABs actually suport split axis control of the pedals?? dave hernie --
John Bodin 09 Jun 1999#472869
I KNOW the ACT Labs RS with the RS PDPI cartridge and the PDPI L4 game card does offer split axis. I *think* the basic RS (w/o the PDPI cartridge and game card) also offers split-axis support, too, but I'd have to check. -- JB On Tue, 8 Jun 1999 22:06:18 -0700, "ddjhenrie" > I missed that one....does the ACT LABs actually >suport split axis control of the pedals?? >dave hernie >--
markgame 09 Jun 1999#472870
Forgive an perhaps ignorant question, but does my Thustmaster T2 (the later version that does not require the adapter) have split axis support? I thought so, but the discussion in this thread has confused me a bit.
Quoted text (12 lines)> By using the multiple game ports on the PDPI card, I think you could > do this. Keep in mind that the Andretti Wheel won't work with the > PDPI card, though (I don't think so, anyway -- never tried it . . . ), > so you'll have to rely on USB support for the Andretti Wheel and the > PDPI card for the TM pedals. Sounds complicated to me. > -- JB > >Couldn't I use my Thrustmaster pedals (with split axis) with an
Andretti > >wheel? I have the PDPI L4. > >Anyone? > >-- Roland -- Mark D Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Hi there. The basic RS does NOT support split axis whereas the Force RS DOES. I asked ACT LABS and my reply was: "The RS and Force RS are very different products software and hardware wise, though they share the same basic wheel housing. The RS is essentially much simpler and so does not need constant revisions of the drivers. Separate axis pedals is not a driver issue. It is in the harware. The RS will have separate pedal axis in the future by means of another cartridge - we expect to have something available in the fall." Hope that clears things up.
Quoted text (15 lines)>I KNOW the ACT Labs RS with the RS PDPI cartridge and the PDPI L4 game >card does offer split axis. I *think* the basic RS (w/o the PDPI >cartridge and game card) also offers split-axis support, too, but I'd >have to check. >-- JB >On Tue, 8 Jun 1999 22:06:18 -0700, "ddjhenrie" >> I missed that one....does the ACT LABs actually >>suport split axis control of the pedals?? >>dave hernie >>--
John Bodin 10 Jun 1999#473137
Thanks for the clarification, Craig. Be advised, though, that the non-FF ACT Labs wheel WITH the RS PDPI cartridge AND a PDPI L4 digital game port DOES indeed offer split-axis support (I'm using one now for GPL, in fact). The non-FF ACT Labs wheel and the basic RS PC cartridge does NOT offer split-axis support, though. -- JB On Wed, 9 Jun 1999 18:29:31 -0300, "Craig Galbraith"
Quoted text (33 lines)>Hi there. >The basic RS does NOT support split axis whereas the Force RS DOES. I asked >ACT LABS and my reply was: >"The RS and Force RS are very different products software and hardware wise, >though they share the same basic wheel housing. >The RS is essentially much simpler and so does not need constant revisions >of the drivers. Separate axis pedals is not a driver issue. It is in the >harware. The RS will have separate pedal axis in the future by means of >another cartridge - we expect to have something available in the fall." >Hope that clears things up. >>I KNOW the ACT Labs RS with the RS PDPI cartridge and the PDPI L4 game >>card does offer split axis. I *think* the basic RS (w/o the PDPI >>cartridge and game card) also offers split-axis support, too, but I'd >>have to check. >>-- JB >>On Tue, 8 Jun 1999 22:06:18 -0700, "ddjhenrie" >>> I missed that one....does the ACT LABs actually >>>suport split axis control of the pedals?? >>>dave hernie >>>--
On Wed, 09 Jun 1999 14:10:42 GMT markgame <[email hidden]> wrote: % Forgive an perhaps ignorant question, but does my Thustmaster T2 (the % later version that does not require the adapter) have split axis % support? I thought so, but the discussion in this thread has confused me % a bit. The discussion is about split axis for the pedals. The T2 does not support (i.e., isn't hardwired) for the pedals to be a two different axes. The brake and gas are on the same axis. However, you can modify your T2 to put the pedals on seperate axis. From: [email hidden] (LavaBoy) Newsgroups: rec.autos.simulators Subject: Re: Seperate axis on a T2? (long) Date: 7 Oct 1998 20:48:44 GMT In article <tMFS1.23486$[email hidden]>, <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted text (11 lines)>On Thu, 1 Oct 1998 13:37:51 -0500 Scott Moore <[email hidden]> wrote: >% After lots of practice with GPL, I think a seperate brake and throttle = >% axis would be a great help. Does anyone know of a way to accomplish this = >% with a T2? I'd certainly like a NASCAR Pro, but my money is going to = >% system upgrades(16 FPS in traffic ain't cutting it :-) ). Any help on = >% this issue is appreciated. >I have heard (haven't verified it) that the T2 doesn't have the >necessary wires in its cable. So you will need to get new cabling and >connectors to pull this off. But check out Lew's Wheels for a great >schematic <http://www.monmouth.com/~lw4750/electric.htm>
That is partly true, you end up having to add 1 wire that runs from your pedals to the joystick jack along the pedals joystick chord. I just dug into the connector to find what color wire at right pin, then spliced into it earlier in the cable. Not too terribly hard a project if you are familiar with soldering, I did it to my old style T2 (which uses the adaptor in Win95), thanks to the terrific info provided by another newsgroup reader to me when I asked this same question here sometime last year. Below is the e-mail he sent back to me which I used with great results, your mileage may vary. Big thanks to Grant Reeve again for providing me with the details on how to do this. I hope he doesn't mind me posting the info here for all to benefit, I tried to verify by mail but never reached him. I snipped the e-mail addresses to protect the innocent from SPAMBOTS. This is especially useful with GPL, and really improved my ability to trail brake! Hope this helps other T2 owners out there who are not too afraid to try this, but please do this at your own risk, we take no responsibility if this doesn't work for you and you end up messing up your wheel. My T2 was pretty old anyhow. <insert standard disclaimer> --John ---Cut here---- Email Message From: Grant Reeve Hi John :) At 14:25 16/04/98 -0700, you wrote: >I posted a response on the r.a.s. newsgroup but also sending you e-mail >in case you don't see it. Posting there would probably help people in >the future if they look up this info on Dejanews, but if you would like >to e-mail me the info instead that is fine also. I haven't looked at r.a.s yet today so i guess i haven't had a chance to see your message there as yet. I'll reply in email anyway. >I have a T2 with the old style (I have to use the adaptor) Joystick2 >pedal axis. same here, but all the difference really is is that pins 6 and 11 are swapped by the adapter, while the newer T2's have pins 6 and 11 wired the right way around in the first place. >I'm wondering how difficult it was just to split the pedal axis? as long as you're OK with soldering stuff it should be fine. Also it helps to have a multimeter or something to check which wires are connected to what and stuff. >Did you need to run any new wires into the pedals or just rewire the existing? >I have replaced both pedal pots in the past and my guess would be that instead >of the two pots being wired in series as they are by default you would >just wire them independent +5v to each pot? I run an extra wire from the pedals to the plug since there's no spare wires in the cable. You can use the same +5v. you split the wire connecting them in series to another joystick axis, and attach a second +5v to the other pot which didn't have a +5v wire. >Please pass on the details to the splitting process, I think splitting the >two pots would eliminate much of the jumpiness I see in my pedal axis. You'll probably find the jumpiness is still there. I do. ok, after this is a rather large set of details on what i did, whcih i wrote the other night to someone else but it's easier to just cut and paste because it applies in general:) He made a comment that my second ascii wiring diagrams should be labled "Friendly Pedal Guy" and "Friendly Pedal Guy with Strange Hat" :) --------------------- What I have done is used a double pole double positon switch to allow me to switch between both pedals on one axis (the normal one), and the pedals on two seperate axiis. It works very well. I've got one of the older T2's that requires an adapter, so the two normal axiis it uses are Joystick 1 axis 1 for steering, and Joystick 2 axis 1 for pedals. The adapter simply passes through all the pins, while swapping Joystick 2 axis 1 with Joystick 1 axis 2. So with all the wiring i did, i've used both pedals on J2-A1 (Joystick 2 axis 1 - will save me typing!), and when split, the gas on J2-A1 and brake on J1-A2, knowing that the adapter swaps them over. If you have a newer T2 you'll be wanting to swap all wiring to the right pins from the start. I see you're referring to axis 0 instead of axis 1 like i am:) so when i say axis 1 i guess i'm meaning your axis 0. The switch i made, when it has the two pedals on one axis, also connects the +5v pin directly over to J1-A2 so that there is some kind of reading on this third axis, which means i can flick the switch and recalibrate, just like that, voiding any need to fiddle around with removing the 3 axis joystick from the Win95 control panel and adding a 2 axis one and back again all the time. I am not entirely sure if it's healthy to connect the +5V directly to a joystick axis like that - but this is the equivalent of no resistance, so i would expect it to be fine. Maybe we should wire a 36 KOhm resister instead of just a direct +5V connect. You will have to hack'n'slash into the plug at the computer end of the T2 cable, it's molded plastic that has probably melted slightly and fused with the black outer casing of the two cables going into the plug. But that's the only part that's fused so I was able to cut open the molded casing of the plug relatively cleanly at that end to cut it away from the cables, then i was able to slide it off revealing the gory horror of the innards of the plug. Gory, because they've encased all the wiring and stuff in a soft plastic, which makes it bloody painful to get access to wires and things! More on this later in the email. I've cut a nice little notch in the side of my pedal base about 5cm from the cable out, where i will mount the switch properly, but I don't have small enough screws for the switch as yet so i just have the switch dangling loose. OK I suppose you're wondering where all the wiring diagrams are and stufF:) well, i've been writing all the other bits first because i was being lazy. I based all this on some info i found at some guy's web page, i think it might have been called "wally's world of sims" or something, but i ended up using my own wiring and stuff, because he had a lot of unneccesary crap, and felt like improving it to suit myself. First i'll give a pin-out of the joystick port, for your usual soundcard: Pin | Description 1 +5 V 2 Joystick 1 Button 1 3 Joystick 1 Axis 1 4 common ground for buttons 5 common ground for buttons 6 Joystick 1 Axis 2 7 Joystick 1 Button 2 8 +5 V 9 +5 V 10 Joystick 2 Button 1 11 Joystick 2 Axis 1 12 MIDI TXD 13 Joystick 2 Axis 2 14 Joystick 2 Button 2 15 MIDI RXD Naturally we're ignoring the MIDI pins. If you're T2 is a newer one without the adapter, please swap all my references to pins 11 and 6. OK, here is a really corny ascii diagram of how the wiring currently is configured in your T2 pedal base. I hope you've got a fixed-width font in your email program:) btw - all references to pin 8 here actually only mean "+5V". Since there's 3 +5V pins it could really be any one of them, it doesn't matter. ______________ / \ | ___ | ___ X-/ \ X-/ \ gas | G | | B | brake X-\___/ X-\___/ | | | \_ | \ / | / |8 / | / ----------------|-- | 1 \ o o o o o o o X / 8 | 9 \ o o X o o o o / 15 | -----|--------- | | \__________/11 And now here's the wiring with the double position double pole switch wired in. When the switch is in the Left position, the axiis will be on one axis going to pin 11, with a fixed resistance going to pin 6. When the switch is in the Right position, the axiis are split, gas on pin 11, brake on pin 6. If you trace all the wiring you should understand how the wiring is all done. Let me know if it's confusing or the diagram is a mess or something. The wires don't actually connect where they are crossing over each other, btw. /--------------\ | _______|___________ | / | \ | /-|-------|-\ /+\ | | X X X | | | 36 KOhm resistor or thereabouts | | \ | \+/ \------X X \ X-----------/ \-|---|-|-|-/ switch | | | | \___|_|_|__ _______/ | | \ / | | | | ___ | | | ___ X-/ \ | | X-/ \ gas | G | | | | B | brake X-\___/ | \--X-\___/ | | | | | \_ | | \ / | | / \__6 |8 / \ | / ------------|---|-- ... read more »
When sitting in your (sim) car (in a game that supports split axis, like GPL or Toca2), press down both the brake and the throttle at the same time, with 1st gear selected. Will the front wheels lock up while the rears start spinning (with the engine revving like mad) at the same time? If so, you've got split axis. If not, buy a better wheel! :) Ciaoooooooo! ;) -- Roland
No i'm afraid not. You need to open the base unit up and re-wire it to enable split axis. I have some instructions for how to go about this if you want me to send them to you. Peter Hooper

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