Hi all,
does anybody from the setup experts can tell what the optimum tire
temperature is and when a tire will loose grip because of overheating?
Sometimes I can see that tire temp drops when I stiffen the ARB. That is
against my experience I have with modern F1 setups.
Jo Lueg
On Tue, 01 Jun 1999 08:43:14 +0200, "Joachim Lueg-Althoff, Neosid
Somewhere between 200 and 250 is the optimum temp.
Anything above 250 and you'll start to lose grip.
Some people say that the tyres get uncontrollable at 270, but from my
experience in hotlapping, if one tyre temp hits exactly 300 or more,
the car then becomes undrivable, and you'll be doing donuts in no
time.
As to the arb q, not sure how hard your driving the car with the
stiffer arb, but generally, higher arb's increase tyre temps.
Setting it to 200 front and back will increase tyre temps quite a bit.
And at a track like zandy, I can overheat the rears within laps. But
on monza or spa it is ok.
Generally, 150 arb front and rear is a good compromise.
Ian Lake
Sorry, that's not realistic.
;-)
---Asgeir---
> Generally, 150 arb front and rear is a good compromise.
> Sorry, that's not realistic.
> ;-)
LOL! True!
Either full, 50%, or off were more likely back then, and still is!!
Don't we all love this...hehe
Matt
> ---Asgeir---
> > Generally, 150 arb front and rear is a good compromise.
--
Matthew Birger Knutsen
Cheek Racing Cars
http://www.cheekracing.electra.no
So you think that the ARBs of that day had very coarse adjustment? I
would think so, the original antiroll bar is really only a bar that
pulls/pushes the tires on the axis the same way as the forced tyre, so
that the car creeps towards the track instead of rolling to one side...
And the specific damping of the bar came later, perhaps during the early
seventies?
And, BTW, I was referring to the stiffnesses in question, using a VERY
stiff ARB both front and in particular rear would be quite slippery in
practice, I'm sure about that...
---Asgeir---
Quoted text (8 lines)
> > Sorry, that's not realistic. > > ;-) > LOL! True! > Either full, 50%, or off were more likely back then, and still is!! > Don't we all love this...heheYour right Asgeir, the tighter the roll bars, the less grip there is
available, but tighter sway bars will result in a chassis that responds
to steering input a lot quicker and more precise than a soft sway bar
setup will.
Well to be exact, the grip level only increases with softer say bars
because the suspension can load up the outside tyres at a much higher
rate than it can if the sway bars are tighter.
The more a tyre is loaded, the more adhesion levels increase, untill
the point is reached where tyre and tarmac can no longer create
cohesion, resulting in slip.
Balancing the sway bars to create cohesion and slip on the tyres is a
major part of setting up a car.
This is of course just a small part of balancing the suspension to work
with the sway bar settings.
Cheers,
Ron
?
My original point was that in Real Life, setting up a race car is a
compromise between responsiveness and grip, but this seem less of a
compromise in GPL since you get very littel grip penalty when using very
stiff springs/arbs/dampers...
But I am quite familiar with grip mechanics, Ron, but thanks anyway for
the explanation on why soft arbs create more grip... ;-)
And that same explanation tells us why you need soft arbs in very slow
curves, and stiff ones in high speed curves... In order to get grip in
those slow turns, you need to load the outside tires, and the low speed
makes this very difficult with stiff arbs... I guess this simply has to
do with geometry: sentripethal (do you say that in English, btw?) force
is a square function of speed, but radius is of the first order...
Anyway, I think that all sims up to know have simulated the stiff/soft
setup and grip slightly wrong, a GP car from -67 with fully stiff arbs,
fully stiff springs and dampers would really be undriveable, but you can
get this to work (in its own way) with GPL...
Cheers!
---Asgeir---
