TSW2, you will not regret it. Order with the split pedal option or go for the
gusto with a TSW2 modified or formula. Look around, it's clearly the best wheel
for the money. Here's the site:
Thomas Super Wheels
Heading off to take back my Saitek R4 (Non force) tomorrow because in
GPL.....
a) When I hit the brake the car pulls to the left &often into the fence!
(can see it in the calibration screen in GPL & Win 98)
b) Using Direct input (which is the only way to get all 6 "buttons" to
work - Buttons for view left & right, Remote shift for gears & one of the F!
paddles for clutch) the steering response is very jerky with the drivers
arms flicking about uncontrollably all over the place with even small
steering input - visually very off putting)
c) The car has a tendency to "jump" to the left every so often on a
straight.
d) In the Win 98 calibration (& also GPL calibration screen the cross hair
is jumping about a good deal after I've calibrated it. Also the calibrations
for brakes is definitly a bit didgy - sometimes I get only 50% ish braking
power - not enough to slow the car down, never mind lock the front wheels!
I've tried the drivers that came with it, the newest drivers off the Saitek
web site & creating a "custom controller under Win 98 all to no avail.
I'm using DX6.0 - as far as I can see DX6.1 does not update the DIrect Input
& therefore I am loathe to try using it on the basis that a) it caused a
problem with my Viper 550 & b) once you have installed it you can't get rid
of it without re-installing windoze
Question is what to replace it with - specifically for GPL & GP2
So
Which wheels support split axis brake & Gas?
Do USB based wheels wok in GP2? if so which ones?
I believe the MS FF wheel self centres in GPL - do any other FF wheels do
this?
Have Logitech fixed their pedals yet?
Has anyone got a TM FF wheel to work properly in GPL & GP2?
Any views on which makes tend to last best (springs, pots etc..)
Anyone have any general recommendations? Not necessarily sold on the idea of
a FF wheel & besides neither of the sims I use support it anyway
!!.....(might be a nice to have for GP3 if it ever appears (assuming that
does support it!). All I really want is a wheel that will calibrate really
well and put up with resonable levels of use (not abuse!). Some good pedals
& the option to shift with either a stick or paddles would be nice in
addition to split axis pedals (which are the main reasons I bought the
Saitek in the first place)...
thanks for your help
Iain
I have seen these on the web page & I know everyone speaks very highly of
them,..- my problem is that I am in the UK so it would mean shipping it & it
looks like a kinda expensive excersise all the way round! I like my racing
sims a lot - but not that much!
thanks for your input.
I.
TSW2, you will not regret it. Order with the split pedal option or go for
the gusto with a TSW2 modified or formula. Look around, it's clearly the
best wheel for the money. Here's the site:
Thomas Super Wheels
Anyone have any general recommendations? Not necessarily sold on the idea of
a FF wheel & besides neither of the sims I use support it anyway
!!.....(might be a nice to have for GP3 if it ever appears (assuming that
does support it!). All I really want is a wheel that will calibrate really
well and put up with resonable levels of use (not abuse!). Some good pedals
& the option to shift with either a stick or paddles would be nice in
addition to split axis pedals (which are the main reasons I bought the
Saitek in the first place)...
thanks for your help
Iain
This can be fixed by NOT mapping the X-axis forces to the Y-axis.
It's recommended in the Saitek setup manual (and also in Viper Racing,
I think), but doing so is actually unrealistic. Here's what's
happening:
You brake and the deceleration forces that you should feel in the
X-axis (the force that would force you forward in your seat as you
decelerate) is instead mapped to the Y-axis, which causes your wheel
to jerk to the left. The opposite happens during acceleration. I
mentioned this effect in my review of the Saitek R4 Force wheel -- it
seems like torque steer in a front wheel drive car, and I believe it
applies to any FF wheel that allows you to map the X-axis forces to
the Y-axis. You get more "active" FF effects by doing it, but it does
detract from realism (and makes it harder to do straight-line braking
and acceleration, IMO).
So, if you have a FF wheel, you'll sacrifice a few effects if you
don't map the X-axis to the Y-axis, but you'll gain in terms of
realism and performance.
-- John Bodin
Publisher, The IRL Insider Magazine
http://irlinsider.adnetweb.com/
If you're in England, I would recommend checking out the F1 Sim --
it's the same price as the TSW2, and you won't have to pay overseas
shipping, which means you could have something MUCH better than a
Thrustmaster wheel for the price of a TSW product. Check them out at:
http://www.interactiveracing.com/
Enjoy!
-- JB
Thanks for that - but mine was a NON force wheel......I canned it today &
exchanged it for a TM Nascar pro (called a Formula 1 over here in the UK).
The TM wheel is in a different leage to the Saitek IMHO. It may not be a TSW
but compared to the Saitek its much much better....Such a relief to be able
to brake in a straight line for a change without having to to compensate the
steering....
rgds,
I
Weird that this was occurring in a non-Force Feedback wheel. I wonder
if there was a short somewhere in the wiring or something? Still,
this thing is unacceptable -- I understand why you returned it. I
haven't had this sort of problem with my Saitek R4 Force wheel,
thankfully.
-- JB
Also check out the "NewF1Sim" myself and a m8 have one each, we are both
very happy with them.
--
Cheers Ginger.....( Bowt NetterToDo )
