I made a converter to convert the 'plane' mode of the CH Pedals from
joystick 2 x-axis left and right to joystick 1 y-axis up and down (like
the t2 pedals). My problem is the accelerator is joy1 y-axis down and
the brake is joy1 y-axis up, opposite of the t2 pedals. This is fine
for games like CPR (swap pedals), N2, and GP2. But for games like ABC
indy racing, Monter Truck Madness, and I think TOCA, the accelerator
must be the joy1 y-axis up. How do I rewire the pedals to make the
accelerator joy1 y-axis up and the brake joy1 y-axis down?
-Jeff
Quoted text (9 lines)
> I made a converter to convert the 'plane' mode of the CH Pedals from > joystick 2 x-axis left and right to joystick 1 y-axis up and down > (like the t2 pedals). My problem is the accelerator is joy1 y-axis > down and the brake is joy1 y-axis up, opposite of the t2 pedals. > This is fine for games like CPR (swap pedals), N2, and GP2. But for > games like ABC indy racing, Monter Truck Madness, and I think TOCA, > the accelerator must be the joy1 y-axis up. How do I rewire the > pedals to make the accelerator joy1 y-axis up and the brake joy1 > y-axis down?> The other obvious alternative (for the patient) is to report the
> inability to configure the controls to your setup as a bug, return the
> game to the store, and refer those game manufacturers to the fine
> traditions handed down by their fore-fathers as examples of how to fix
> their bug.
I was playing around with reading joysicks recently and it amazes me
that anyone could guess right the first time about the direction
when programming it. ;) (OK, maybe they read the manuals first ;);)
When I decided to swap 2 of my four axes, I went ahead and put
configurable axis swapping in for all of them ;)
- Matt
Since I decided to use the CH Pedals for auto sims only, I disconnected
all the wires from the pots and directly swapped those from the
acclerator with the brake unit and vice versa. This would mean that I
would be unable to use the unit for flight sims though.
Doesn't matter to me since I also fiddled with the spring tension. I
fitted 4 springs, yup 4, into the brake pedal. I mounted a metal bracket
on each end of the spring mounts that could fit two springs for similar
type to the standard spring and two smaller springs (the whole idea
being to fill the pedal with springs). On the acclerator unit, I swapped
the standard spring for a weaker unit which I had made at a local spring
shop. It all works great so far. Next up would be perhaps to add a
hydraulic piston to the brake unit for better `feel'
Stanley
his brain):
If you have standard off-the-shelf pots in the pedals (three wires),
you can move one of the wires on both pots to get what you want.
UAA (Ugly Ascii Art) follows: (view with a monospaced font obviously)
Pot:
+v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^+
| ^ |
| | | 1 <-2-> 3
The resistance across pins one and three is constant, and is equal to
the sum of the resistance from pin 1-2 and 2-3. Pin 2 is connected to
the movable wiper in the pot, which allows the resistances from 1-2 to
be varied.
So, if a pot is currently wired to pins 1 & 2, move it to pins 2 & 3
and vice versa.
Sorry about the brain-fade,
---Jim
PS: Of course, IMO it's still a bug in games that don't allow for
proper controller configuration.


































