% My replacement pot arrived in the mail today, but I have no idea how
% to remove the old one and replace the new one. I've gotten as far as
% removing the plastic case. It looks like it requires some sort of
% soldering to get the wires onto the new pot, which I'm completely
% unfamilar with. For some reason Thrustmaster didn't send me any
% instructions, which makes me wonder why they didn't just have me send
% the unit to them in the first place. At this point I'd rather try to
% fix it myself rather than send the unit in and be required to wait
% even longer. Any help would be appreciated.
Well, it will require some soldering. I am no soldering expert, but I
will attempt to give you a few pointers. First get yourself a soldering
iron. You can find a fairly inexpensive one at Radio Shack. Since you
aren't going into the repair business, just get yourself one of the
"stick" type soldering units. Allow the unit to heat up until you can
touch a piece of solder and it will melt. Use the soldering iron to
melt the solder on the installed pot and pull the wires loose. When
heating the solder it's best to put the tip of the iron on the metal
posts just below the solder joint. This way you will be less likely to
melt the plastic insulation on the wire.
When you are soldering the new pot, once again heat the metal post with
the wire through the hole. Place the end of some new solder on the wire
and wait for the solder to flow over the wire and the post. Remove the
iron and let the solder set. The key to a good solder joint is to make
sure that the exposed wire is "tinned" (has a coating of solder) and
that you cause the solder to flow to the joint. Don't just place the
iron on the wire and the pot post and apply solder. You want the solder
to "flow" to the joint. So place the tip just below the area you want
joined and the solder just touching the exposed wire and allow the
solder to flow towards the heat source. Solder likes to do that, flow
towards heat.
Regarding removing the pot: Are we talking about the wheel? There
should be a flat nut holding the pot in place (on the threaded post of
the pot). You should be able to remove the nut and pull the pot out.
--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Quoted text (7 lines)
>I found the easiest way to replace the pot is to break off the plastic >tab that holds the pot in place, and pull it out. Then I press the new >one into place, making sure the slot in its shaft is lined up the same >way as the one that came out. I made sure it stayed in place by >wrapping some fine safety wire around the pot and the bracket, in an >X-pattern. You can get safety wire in a hardware store; get stainless >if you can.It may be obvious, but just in case...make sure you make a note of which
wires attach to which posts on the pot before you unsolder them!
In all the T2's I've seen, the pot is not held in by a nut but rather
pressed into a splined sleeve at the bottom of a plastic bracket that
holds the lower end of the wheel shaft.
I found the easiest way to replace the pot is to break off the plastic
tab that holds the pot in place, and pull it out. Then I press the new
one into place, making sure the slot in its shaft is lined up the same
way as the one that came out. I made sure it stayed in place by
wrapping some fine safety wire around the pot and the bracket, in an
X-pattern. You can get safety wire in a hardware store; get stainless
if you can.
Alison
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http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~alison
