Gearing Up T2 For Gp2

I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is aparently setup to emulate.

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> >I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be > >attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear > >changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the > >name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is > >aparently setup to emulate. > Cool. Why didn't I think of that. How did you do it? Did you use the same > buttons,? How did you attach them etc..... > Thanks > :::;' /) - * - BLEEDING HEAD GOOD / dab daeh delaeh > ::' / ) ':` -+- > : (((\ \) /,) Crack the TRINARY `96 > : (\\\\ \_/ / http://www.concentric.net/~flashboy > :. \ / http://sunsite.unc.edu/subgeniusThats a great idea, if you added buttons how did you attach etc, then do

you just program shifter for reverse? Jeff

> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be > attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear > changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the > name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is > aparently setup to emulate. Mike, Tell me more, how exactly did you do this?

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>> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is >> aparently setup to emulate. >Mike, >Tell me more, how exactly did you do this?

Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold them on. It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing much more realistic and interesting. I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the T-2. Cheers. --John -- ------------------- John (Joao) Silva http://weber.u.washington.edu/~jsilva Seattle, Washington USA.

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> >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be > >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear > >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the > >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is > >> aparently setup to emulate. > >Mike, > >Tell me more, how exactly did you do this? > Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on > the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you > hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the > holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold > them on. > It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the > existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever > or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use > the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able > to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing > much more realistic and interesting. > I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it > since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the > steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and > maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the > T-2. > Cheers. > --John > -- > ------------------- > John (Joao) Silva > http://weber.u.washington.edu/~jsilva > Seattle, Washington USA.

John, you wouldn't happen to have the radio shack part number also how do you keep the new wires from snapping when turning wheel - did you just use alot of wire or what. I was looking inside my T2 and it looks like you may be able to run the buttons to the two red ones on the front of the wheel is this so. Thx Jeff

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> >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be > >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear > >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the > >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is > >> aparently setup to emulate. > >Mike, > >Tell me more, how exactly did you do this? > Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on > the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you > hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the > holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold > them on. > It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the > existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever > or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use > the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able > to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing > much more realistic and interesting. > I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it > since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the > steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and > maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the > T-2. > Cheers. > --John > -- > ------------------- > John (Joao) Silva > http://weber.u.washington.edu/~jsilva > Seattle, Washington USA.

John, you wouldn't happen to have the radio shack part number also how do you keep the new wires from snapping when turning wheel - did you just use alot of wire or what. I was looking inside my T2 and it looks like you may be able to run the new buttons and wire them to the two red ones on the front of the wheel is this so. Thx Jeff

On Sat, 15 Jun 1996 08:14:43 +1100, Scott Caddaye >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is >> aparently setup to emulate. This sounds great, can you tell me and everyone how you made this.

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>>> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be >>> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear >>> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the >>> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is >>> aparently setup to emulate. >>Mike, >>Tell me more, how exactly did you do this? >Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on >the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you >hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the >holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold >them on. >It only took a bit of soldering to connect these two push-buttons to the >existing shift lever, and then you have the choice to shift with the lever >or thumb buttons. Left-thumb downshift, right-thumb upshift. I usually use >the shift lever for Nascar and thumb buttons for ICR2, finally I was able >to do my own shifting instead of using the auto-shift, makes the racing >much more realistic and interesting. >I did this about a month after I bought the T-2 and haven't regreted it >since, no problems at all, and it almost seems like the holes in the >steering wheel supports were put there with this purpose in mind, and >maybe someone changed their minds at Thrustmaster before releasing the >T-2. >Cheers.

Go to my website at [link lost in import: /~wottenad/wheel.htm] for a full walkthrough of this mod. I've included pictures, schematics and wiring color guide along with TONS of other info... Wally Walt Ottenad Wally's World [link lost in import: /~wottenad/wheel.htm] The homebuilt home page!

>John, you wouldn't happen to have the radio shack part number also how >do you keep the new wires from snapping when turning wheel - did you just >use alot of wire or what. I was looking inside my T2 and it looks like >you may be able to run the buttons to the two red ones on the front of >the wheel is this so. Thx Jeff I did it quite a few months ago so I don't have the packages for the buttons anymore, but all I did was measure the middle hole in the T2 wheel supports and go down to radio shack to find a momentary contact push-button that would work. It turns out that the size is just about perfect, the buttons are round with a red square top if that will help you, I'm sure once you look there you will see the buttons that will work. I actually ran the wires from the buttons, to the middle of the console and inside of the T2 all the way to the shift lever, I then soldered them to the existing connections on the shift lever so that I can use either the lever or pushbuttons to shift without having to reconfigure the game or anything on the T2, if you look at the wiring connections on the shift lever it is pretty obvious which wires to connect to, at least it was for me, basically 2 position wires and a common ground. As far as the wire, I just left the wires a bit loose going from the center of the T2 console to each button, loose enough so that I can turn the wheel all the way each direction without making the wires fully taught. It has worked well for me that way, but I have heard some people say here that telephone handset chord works well there too, I will probably convert to that if the wires ever fail or give me any problems, but so far so good. Sorry if this is not too detailed, but I think this is fairly easy to do and the average person using common sense will be able to figure it out, after all even I was able to do it <G>. Hope that helps. --John -- ------------------- John (Joao) Silva http://weber.u.washington.edu/~jsilva Seattle, Washington USA.

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> > >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be > > >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear > > >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the > > >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is > > >> aparently setup to emulate. > > >Mike, > > >Tell me more, how exactly did you do this? > > Radio Shack has some Pushbutton switches that fit right in the holes on > > the steering wheel supports on the T2 right where your thumbs are when you > > hold the T2 steering wheel with two hands. The push-buttons go in the > > holes facing the front, and a couple of nuts***in the back to hold > > them on. > John, you wouldn't happen to have the radio shack part number also how > do you keep the new wires from snapping when turning wheel - did you just > use alot of wire or what. I was looking inside my T2 and it looks like > you may be able to run the new buttons and wire them to the two red ones > on the front of the wheel is this so. Thx Jeff

Try p/n 275-1566. I went and bought a pair today. They will fit in the middle of the 3 holes on the horizontal wheel spokes, but you'll need to add a washer or something to make sure they stay secure. They could also go into the outside holes after a little work with a drill (which is where I plan to put them). I expect to use some coiled phone cord to do the wiring. For a wiring diagram Neil -- Meek and obedient you follow the leader down well trodden corridors into the valley of steel.. Neil Yeatman, Ajax, Ontario, CANADA

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> On Sat, 15 Jun 1996 08:14:43 +1100, Scott Caddaye > >> I altered my T2 by extending my A & B buttons so that they could be > >> attatched behind the steering wheel to simulate semi-automatic gear > >> changing. I was suprised it was'nt included in the orignal model, as the > >> name Formula T2 has more bearing to formula one than Indycars with it is > >> aparently setup to emulate. > This sounds great, can you tell me and everyone how you made this.

Sure. It's quite hard to explain but I'll give it a go. To do this conversion you need:- 1. A Phillips***driver. 2. A sodering iron. 3. Some solder. 4. Insulation tape. 5. A flat-edge***driver. 6. Some of those plastic click-tie things. 7. Single wire electrical wire. What I did was take off the cover behind the steering wheel itself by removing the 6 vertically positioned screws from the base. Then I established what wires the buttons used to operate. In mine they were the Blue & Yellow for button A and Green & Yellow for button B. NOTE that both yellow wires are joined and must be joined in order for them to work. Then I marked out the wires and where they mounted on the actual button itself (on the plastic not the terminals) with Twink or White Out. I then used a flat edge***driver to wedge the red buttons off the outside of the base, don't worry they're only clip-ons, you can now slide the clicking parts of the buttons out from their little shelves. The next thing I did was solder the wire exentions to the original wires and put them through the respective holes where the buttons originally were then soldered them to the buttons, make sure the extensions are long enough to accomodate the entire travel, I used the original bottons and positioned them on the 2 horizontal spokes one on each side, they actually rest quite well against plastic which separates the middle and small circles in the spokes so that the little metal terminals can be seen from either side of the plastic when looking at the wheel from the front, make sure the wires are long enough to accomodate the full range of movement. Also make sure that you use a new wire to connect the two yellow terminals and that the wire is long enough to run behind the spokes from one button to the other. I then used insulation tape to cover all the soldered joints so that two opposing joint didn't touch and then wrapped the two (A&B) sets of wire in tape as well. I ran the wire along the front face of the base, holding it in place with insulation tape so that they ran up from the base of the wheel into the hollow behind the spokes where I used a plastic tie to hold the wires in place around the plastic between the middle size and large hole in the two spokes. The last thing I did was put tape around the spokes to keep the wires in place.