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Rec.Autos.Simulators Archive

Joystick problem with ICR2

5 posts by 3 people · 05 Apr 1996 - 16 Apr 1996

Hi all! I'm running (trying to run :)) ICR2 with a Logitech Wingman Extreme joystick. When I choose 'Calibrate joystick 1' from the options/controls menu, it calibrates OK, but if I immediately go back to the calibration screen, the joystick doesn't seem to be calibrated at all, even though I just did it. Well, never mind that I thought, let's turn a few laps and see what happens. So I start driving and everything seems to work just fine...for a while. Then, perhaps two-thirds into a full tank of gas, I start to notice that my acceleration is pitiful (I use the joystick y-axis for acceleration/braking) and I don't turn very well, either (I use the x-axis for that). As I continue driving the problem just keeps getting worse until it sounds as if I've lost a couple of cylinders and hardly accelerate at all, at which time I decide to investigate. I then exited the race, recalibrated the joystick (it certainly didn't look calibrated when I selected the calibration screen, but, again, seemed to calibrate just fine), and took to the track again... and the same thing as told above happened. I've even tried this on two systems; my own joystick plugged into the joystick port built into the SoundBlaster16 soundcard on my 486/66DX, and another Logitech Wingman Extreme joystick (only newer) into the joystick port built into the Turtle Beach StTropez 32-bit soundcard on my dad's (would you believe the old man's gotten his own joystick :-)) P133. Same thing on both places. I therefore submit my problem to the knowledgeable community of r.a.s, together with the three possible solutions I've come up with so far: 1. You need a speed-adjustable gamecard to use this joystick model. 2. This isn't a joystick problem at all, I've overcooked the engine. (Not likely, I still use auto-shift, which normally means that the engine runs at very sedate rpm's for much of any circuit) 3. I'm an idiot who've missed an apparently obvious solution. (Not one listed in the manual under troubleshooting/joystick, though) Any help would be appreciated! Thanx in advance, Johan Hellgren
Jo 05 Apr 1996#315287
[...] 1- I don't think this explanation would account for the gradual deterioration you are seeing. 2- I don't think you can overcook the engine like that. My experience is that you either blow the engine and it is suddenly dead, or it is just fine. 3- I don't see any obvious explanations, and I don't know your joystick at all. But I would suggest that you try using something other than the y-axis for accelleration/braking- I use pedals, but if I didn't have them, I'd probably use either joystick buttons or keyboard. See what happens with that simpler joystick config. It sounds to me like something in your joystick is loosening up as you use it. That is all I can figure.
Brad Morga 05 Apr 1996#315288
> I'm running (trying to run :)) ICR2 with a Logitech Wingman Extreme > joystick. When I choose 'Calibrate joystick 1' from the options/controls > menu, it calibrates OK, but if I immediately go back to the calibration > screen, the joystick doesn't seem to be calibrated at all, even though I > just did it. Well, never mind that I thought, let's turn a few laps and There is nothing wrong to this point. You can't check the calibration with ICR2 (or NASCAR). When you enter the calibration screen, it starts from scratch. You might want to write down the numbers after you calibrate the first time. They should be approximately the same each time. If they are different, then that could be the problem. Brad
Jo 15 Apr 1996#315895
[he's having trouble with a Logitech Wingman Extreme joystick slowly going completely out of calibration as he races] ... [ the following are possible reasons he considers] Another possibility- if you are using a soundcard-joystick combo card, or some other kind of combo controller card, you might be overheating it with this particular joystick, i.e., the stick's power requirements are overheating the card. This could cause a form of "heat drift" that would appear to you as your calibration going lousy. You'd need to spend $25 bucks or so and get a dedicated card in this case.
Hi all! Thanks for your advice everyone. So far I have found that not pushing the joystick to its Y axis stops when calibrating it will rectify the problem (at least as far as I can tell). I am planning to upgrade my computer, however, and will then probably heed your advice and include a dedicated game card. Thanks again, Johan Hellgren

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