Thrustmaster T1 Question

Perhaps the guys at Thrustmaster can answer this question: How many driving sims/games exist that support the T1 wheel? (Besides the big 3) -- If you're going to run with the big dogs, you've got to be able to whizz in the tall grass.

Steve, Any game that supports 2 joysticks will inherently support the ThrustMaster Formula T1. The Steering Unit will be supported on the X-Axis of Joystick 1, and the Pedal Unit on the X-Axis of Joystick 2. However, if you have a game that supports only One joystick, then you can use the White adapter plug that is supplied with the T1. This plug is an Axis Adapter which switches the the Pedal Unit to the Y-Axis of Joystick 1. Here's how you'd set this up for a normal calibration routine of a Single joystick game: Make sure you are using the Adapter plug. If the game has a calibration routine, you will need to run it, and calibrate the T1. When the calibration routine asks you to move the joystick to the Upper-Left, and press a button: Turn the steering wheel full Left, press the Accelerator Down, and Press your shifter forward. When the routine asks you to move the joystick to the Lower-Right and press a button: Turn the steering wheel full Right, press the Brake Down, and Press your shifter forward. When you are asked to Center the joystick and press a button: Just Press your shifter forward. Matt ThrustMaster, Inc. <sorry if I gave too much information!> :)

Okay, I am considering getting the Thrustmaster, but have a few questions first. 1) I hook up my joystick to my soundblaster port. How does a T1 hook up? 2) Do the pedals allow 'degrees' of acceleration and breaking? Can I let up slightly on the gas and it'll respond appropriately in the game? 3) How durable are they? I've heard they fall apart pretty easy. 4) What is the price? The add says $134, can I get it cheaper? 5) Does it work with other games? Which ones? 6) How do you do Reverse? Thanks for all your help. Kirk

: Okay, I am considering getting the Thrustmaster, but have a few questions : first. : : 1) I hook up my joystick to my soundblaster port. How does a T1 hook up? On my SBAWE32, the wheel plug goes into the pedals plug, which then goes into the joystick port ... ie uses only 1 joystick port. : 2) Do the pedals allow 'degrees' of acceleration and breaking? Can I let : up slightly on the gas and it'll respond appropriately in the game? Yep, just like you say. : 3) How durable are they? I've heard they fall apart pretty easy. Well, I've never heard of one falling apart, but I did manage to break the accelerator pedal spring in pretty short order. Thrustmaster support was excellent; they sent out 3 sets of replacement springs straight away, with a recommendation for not over extending the springs. : 4) What is the price? The add says $134, can I get it cheaper? I paid UK 170 pounds, which I suppose is the premium to be paid for buying US computer goods over here :-( : 5) Does it work with other games? Which ones? Other than what? :-) AFAIK it works with WC/F1GP, Indycar and NASCAR. Whether it works with other games you have in mind depends on whether your game supports more than 1 joystick in. : 6) How do you do Reverse? I've configured one of the buttons on the steering wheel console for "go in reverse". : Thanks for all your help. : Kirk -- James Bevan NeXTMail & MIME welcome

I've had the T1 set up for a couple of days and for those who thought ICR was realistic...it goes up by a factor of ten w/ the wheel. I never drive any of the road courses since I play the game very little. And for those who play ICR...they know there is a steep learning curve. So I usually cruise the ovals and work on setups there. I spent a good portion of the weekend blasting around Laguna Seca and what a world of a difference. It wasn't so much as the control via the wheel, but rather the precise control you get out of being able to slightly modulate the throttle or brake w/ out having to be full throttle or full brake (mostly throttle control though). Drafting and in close racing on the ovals are also much better since you can go partial throttle to avoid running over someone when you get caught up in their draft. On the other hand, I think the wheel itself is small and uncomfortable. Even more so, I think the pedals could be better placed. Such as separating them more. The brake is too close to the gas (probably optimum for single foot action, but I prefer using both feet). Lastly, the gear shifting mechanism could be a little more precise (seems like when I'm downshifting real fast, it doesn't always acknowledge my actions...maybe due to a key bounce circuit built in?). It would be nice if the shifter provided some gated feedback so you can feel for sure the upshift/downshift. One other thang, those buttons on the console are practically useless, unless I'm missing something. I tried programming them to act as reverse but they each seem to only engage periodically. TR

writes: I've seen some friends set those up for Turbo Charge, Rear Sway Bar, Front Sway Bar, And Brake bais. I would use them mostly for Turbo Charge settings. I would love to own one of the T1's but the money isn't here. :-) Robert Knauber

writes: : : I've had the T1 set up for a couple of days and for those who thought : ICR was realistic...it goes up by a factor of ten w/ the wheel. I agree - couldn't have put it better myself! : On the other hand, I think the wheel itself is small and uncomfortable. I wonder how it compares to steering wheels in real single-seaters. Remember their***pits are tiny ... I like it because it's shaped the same as the wheel in my car. : Even more so, I think the pedals could be better placed. Such as : separating them more. The brake is too close to the gas (probably : optimum for single foot action, but I prefer using both feet). You can remedy this by unbolting the brake pedal roller and bolting it back on the other side of the plate. Thanks to whoever suggested this a while back! : the gear shifting mechanism could be a little more precise (seems like : when I'm downshifting real fast, it doesn't always acknowledge my : actions...maybe due to a key bounce circuit built in?). It would be : nice if the shifter provided some gated feedback so you can feel for : sure the upshift/downshift. Hmmm, no comment. Maybe there's someone from Thrustmaster lurking could give us their insight? : One other thang, those buttons on the : console are practically useless, unless I'm missing something. I tried : programming them to act as reverse but they each seem to only engage : periodically. : : TR I use the top button for reverse, like you suggest, and I haven't had a problem. Again, anyone from Thrustmaster ... ? -- James Bevan NeXTMail & MIME welcome

writes: What I did to solve this was to take the unit apart, add a longer wire to the "GAS" POT, and move the the whole POT assembley to the far right (mine has three cutouts). This feels much better to drive with!!! Good Luck Mike Carrothers Creative Labs FAE Raleigh NC

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>> One other thang, those buttons on the >>console are practically useless, unless I'm missing something. I tried >>programming them to act as reverse but they each seem to only engage >>periodically. >>TR >From memory, the problem with the reverse is that the pedals take >priority so that if you don't have them calibrated perfectly, the >program detects that you have either the brake or accelerator on >a little bit and therefore, ignores the signal to reverse. You can >get around it by calibrating the pedals better or, if you still have >brake or the accelerator coming on in neutral, move the pedals slightly >when pressing the reverse button to turn the brakes or accelerator >off and the reverse should then work.

I'm using the buttons for shifting, and not using that shifter at all. I use the left shift for reverse. don't need it very often! Maybe this wouldl alleviate some frustrations for someone... Go #6 Mark Martin and #16 Ted Musgrave - Jack Roush Racing!! NASCAR Racing!!

> One other thang, those buttons on the >console are practically useless, unless I'm missing something. I tried >programming them to act as reverse but they each seem to only engage >periodically. >TR From memory, the problem with the reverse is that the pedals take priority so that if you don't have them calibrated perfectly, the program detects that you have either the brake or accelerator on a little bit and therefore, ignores the signal to reverse. You can get around it by calibrating the pedals better or, if you still have brake or the accelerator coming on in neutral, move the pedals slightly when pressing the reverse button to turn the brakes or accelerator off and the reverse should then work.