Low-tech solution to LWFF pedal problems

I love my Logitech Wingman Force Feedback wheel, but those pedals are a little short in throw, and hard to finely control, in my favourite game GPL. I came up with a cheap solution you may wish to try. The specific goal was to damp the brake pedal, so that it would only lock up the tires when I really wanted to, ie in a full panic stop. I went to the local hardware store and picked up two foam sanding blocks, dimensions 3" by 4" by 1" thick. They are fairly stiff and will compress to about half of their thickness under pressure. I put them under my brake pedal, and kept them in place with a wooden "jig" that extends to my wall and keeps the pedals unit from moving. It took a little getting used to, but I find now that I have better braking control, as the standard push causes full braking with the odd chirp from the tires, and I have to stand on it to get a squeal. Please note, if you calibrate, remove the pads. CH pedals would be the ultimate, for now this is an improvement. See what you think. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy.

I have an idea also that I am about to try out.Take the bottom cover off the pedal unit and turn the unit upside doen.Put a piece of tape around the brake spring and then with it still attached to the brake pedal fill it up with silicone caulk(the kind to do the bathtubs with).I am gonna fill it to 3/4 full so that I can get that little bit of movement without the rubber. Later On Sun, 26 Mar 2000 16:36:34 GMT, [email hidden] wrote:

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>I love my Logitech Wingman Force Feedback wheel, but those pedals are a >little short in throw, and hard to finely control, in my favourite game >GPL. > >I came up with a cheap solution you may wish to try. > >The specific goal was to damp the brake pedal, so that it would only >lock up the tires when I really wanted to, ie in a full panic stop. I >went to the local hardware store and picked up two foam sanding blocks, >dimensions 3" by 4" by 1" thick. They are fairly stiff and will >compress to about half of their thickness under pressure. I put them >under my brake pedal, and kept them in place with a wooden "jig" that >extends to my wall and keeps the pedals unit from moving. > >It took a little getting used to, but I find now that I have better >braking control, as the standard push causes full braking with the odd >chirp from the tires, and I have to stand on it to get a squeal. Please >note, if you calibrate, remove the pads. > >CH pedals would be the ultimate, for now this is an improvement. See >what you think. > > > >Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ >Before you buy.

Skeeter, get a 13mm doorstop for about US$ 0,11. Fits into the spring nicely. Only a "cross" has to be cut into the stop-bottom. Jens On Sun, 26 Mar 2000 17:35:37 GMT, [email hidden] (Skeeter) wrote:

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> I have an idea also that I am about to try out.Take the bottom >cover off the pedal unit and turn the unit upside doen.Put a piece of >tape around the brake spring and then with it still attached to the >brake pedal fill it up with silicone caulk(the kind to do the bathtubs >with).I am gonna fill it to 3/4 full so that I can get that little bit >of movement without the rubber. >Later

--------------------------------------------- [email hidden] Remove "NOSPAM" before using my email-address JensSchumi homepage at http://members.xoom.com/JensSchu/ Racing simulation, esp. GPL Logitech Wingman FF optimization Classic cars, esp. Morris Minor Radio controlled airplanes

Jan, calibration is only done by moving all controls to maximum deflection. The logi itself calculated the wheel-center (like sh..t sometimes-solution for this on my webpage) Problem (with doorstop or silicone or sanding-pad) will be to recalibrate consistantly to have the same break feeling all the time. Jens On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 00:52:31 GMT, "Jan Verschueren" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>Excuse me but I keep hearing people with LWFF's talking about calibrating... >I don't seem have that option (not under the joystick control panel anyway). >Are you talking about calibrating inside GPL (where I use my Nas.Pro pedals >throuhg an L4 card) or just under Win98? If it's the latter... how's it >done? I tried unchecking that autocalibrate option, but that doesn't seem to >offer any extra possibilities. > >TIA, > >Jan.

--------------------------------------------- [email hidden] Remove "NOSPAM" before using my email-address JensSchumi homepage at http://members.xoom.com/JensSchu/ Racing simulation, esp. GPL Logitech Wingman FF optimization Classic cars, esp. Morris Minor Radio controlled airplanes

Excuse me but I keep hearing people with LWFF's talking about calibrating... I don't seem have that option (not under the joystick control panel anyway). Are you talking about calibrating inside GPL (where I use my Nas.Pro pedals throuhg an L4 card) or just under Win98? If it's the latter... how's it done? I tried unchecking that autocalibrate option, but that doesn't seem to offer any extra possibilities. TIA, Jan. ---- <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:8bleah$g73$[email hidden]... > I love my Logitech Wingman Force Feedback wheel, but those pedals are a > little short in throw, and hard to finely control, in my favourite game > GPL. > > <Snip>

My low tech solution was to buy a squash ball and a zip tie. I then used the zip tie to hold the ball against the pedal shaft outside of the case. It gives quite a good pedal feel and doesn`t affect my warranty.