Working in the Force Feedback Salt Mines

Ok, I've gone and put aside some predjudices, ( not all mind you, just some), and bought myself an LWFF Wheel. Well, the thing is, to put it in colorful engineering terms, a box full of detents. Man is this thing notchy. And gritty. Like turning a salt mill. I can also hear dry plastic rubbing on plastic in there. Weren't they supposed to be making them better in the new series? So, anyway, short of sending it back, or sending it off to see it's mommy and daddy at Logitech for an undeterminate amount of time, anyone out there got any fix ideas for me? I'm well aquainted with the inards of the non Force wheel, ( and if someone out there can tell me where to get replacement pot for it I'd be obliged), so the idea of cracking the case dosn't scare me. Figure I'll do it sooner or later to do the ball bearing conversion. Just asking for any words of wisdom and/or experience before I unholster the screwdriver.

On Wed, 5 Apr 2000 23:32:32 -0400, "Kevin Gavitt" <[email hidden]> wrote: >Ok, I've gone and put aside some predjudices, ( not all mind you, just >some), and bought myself an LWFF Wheel. > >Well, the thing is, to put it in colorful engineering terms, a box full of >detents. Man is this thing notchy. And gritty. Like turning a salt mill. I >can also hear dry plastic rubbing on plastic in there. Sounds like the drive cables have shifted and are running over the top of one another. You may need to crack the case and push them around until they're aligned side-by-side. I've heard of this happening. Regards, Brett C. Cammack That's Racing! Motorsports Pompano Beach, FL

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> > Sounds like the drive cables have shifted and are running over the top > of one another. You may need to crack the case and push them around > until they're aligned side-by-side. I've heard of this happening. > > Regards, > Brett C. Cammack > That's Racing! Motorsports > Pompano Beach, FL

Well, it sucks for me, but the cables are a-OK. It seems the trouble is coming at least 95% from the main post the small pully rides on. It appears this post is a molded extrusion of the pully housing. Cheap and dirty way to make it. BAD way to make it. The pully should have a proper shaft and a proper bushing on each end. If I took it apart and polished the shaft and packed it with graphite grease I'd bet that would make a world of difference. Looks to be several hours of work to me. I'm not up for it right now. Guess I'll see how it wears in. I'll bet if if replaced that shaft with a steel post I'd get 80% of the effect of a ball bearing conversion, for considerably less expense.

I had a little bit of the "sticktion" in my wheel and first put some lube on the bearings that helped a little,then I decided to do the ball bearing conversion that was at this site: http://w1.111.telia.com/~u11103812/lwff.htm It cost me $26.00 in bearings and snap rings. I have a lathe and the material to make the bearing sleeves and mounts(made what I could out of plastic and aluminum to save time). It was a lot of work and took a lot of time, so it would be expensive if you had someone do it for you. I really like the sooth way it feels now and small wheel correction movements such as high speed straight driving are much easier. I think the FF effect are felt better also. Lutrell Kevin Gavitt wrote in message <8cigs4$t7v$[email hidden]>...

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> >> >> Sounds like the drive cables have shifted and are running over the top >> of one another. You may need to crack the case and push them around >> until they're aligned side-by-side. I've heard of this happening. >> >> Regards, >> Brett C. Cammack >> That's Racing! Motorsports >> Pompano Beach, FL > >Well, it sucks for me, but the cables are a-OK. It seems the trouble is >coming at least 95% from the main post the small pully rides on. It appears >this post is a molded extrusion of the pully housing. Cheap and dirty way to >make it. BAD way to make it. The pully should have a proper shaft and a >proper bushing on each end. > >If I took it apart and polished the shaft and packed it with graphite grease >I'd bet that would make a world of difference. Looks to be several hours of >work to me. I'm not up for it right now. Guess I'll see how it wears in. > >I'll bet if if replaced that shaft with a steel post I'd get 80% of the >effect of a ball bearing conversion, for considerably less expense. > >

hi sounds like you have one of the rogue china ones.......quality has really gone down since manufacturing went to china...... return it for another one , and check in the shop if it feels smooth, with the power OFF!!!!!! the sound of sliding plastic is because the "bearings"are plastic...jens shumacher makes a ballbearing kit for it not that expensive it should solve all the problems... Sudesh Kevin Gavitt wrote:

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> Ok, I've gone and put aside some predjudices, ( not all mind you, just > some), and bought myself an LWFF Wheel. > > Well, the thing is, to put it in colorful engineering terms, a box full of > detents. Man is this thing notchy. And gritty. Like turning a salt mill. I > can also hear dry plastic rubbing on plastic in there. > > Weren't they supposed to be making them better in the new series? > > So, anyway, short of sending it back, or sending it off to see it's mommy > and daddy at Logitech for an undeterminate amount of time, anyone out there > got any fix ideas for me? > > I'm well aquainted with the inards of the non Force wheel, ( and if someone > out there can tell me where to get replacement pot for it I'd be obliged), > so the idea of cracking the case dosn't scare me. Figure I'll do it sooner > or later to do the ball bearing conversion. Just asking for any words of > wisdom and/or experience before I unholster the screwdriver.