In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...
> You may want to try this. It worked for me. Take a piece of foam
> rubber used to insulate 1/2 in 3/4 in copper water pipe and cut to
> size of pedal travel for the pedal. Cut piece length wise so you can
> wrap around the pedal base and secure with electrical tape...
Without tearing my pedals down right now, would this rubber fit around
or inside the spring? Or do you ditch your spring entirely?
--
s i m a g e r y @ h o t m a i l . c o m
Mike Dietz <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
. I just couldn't
> justify spending $ 100 for the CH pedals that didn't work with all
> titles with my LWFF, and what the heck do you do with the extra
> set of pedals.
My CH pedals only cost $50.00, and as far as what to do with the extra set
of pedals, throw 'em out! Use the wiring from the LWFF pedals and use it to
rewire the CH pedals. You then have a bitchen set of pedals that work with
all your sims.
--
don
New Programmes for the Converted GPL Tracks
http://www.ianparker1.plus.com/gpl/bapom/
You may want to try this. It worked for me. Take a piece of foam
rubber used to insulate 1/2 in 3/4 in copper water pipe and cut to
size of pedal travel for the pedal. Cut piece length wise so you can
wrap around the pedal base and secure with electrical tape. It gives
the feel of the pedal getting firmer the more you press down and give
you a greater feeling before locking up the brakes. I just couldn't
justify spending $ 100 for the CH pedals that didn't work with all
titles with my LWFF, and what the heck do you do with the extra
set of pedals.
"Joe Marques" <Joe"NO_SPAM"[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:m2Zq5.32639$[email hidden]...
> Where did you get them at that price and are they gameport OR USB? Howeasy
> was it to rewire? Any spot on the net with instructions? I'm tired of
> using my TSW2 pedals in GPL and then going back to LWFF for everythingelse.
>
> TIA
>
> --
> Joe Marques
Hi Joe,
I bought the CH pedals at Fry's electronics, $49.95 plus tax. CH also sells
them from their online store at: http://www.chproducts.com/index.html They
are standard gameport pedals. The Logitech wires have slip on connectors, as
do the CH pedals. All you are really doing is pulling the wires off the pots
in the Logitech pedals and slipping them on the CH pedal pots. That is an
oversimplification, but if you are prepared, the swap shouldn't take more
than about 1/2 an hour. There is a very detailed how-to on Alison's GPL
site: http://www.simracing.com/~alison/gpl/ Look under the
Help/Controllers/Readers Reports page for the report on the Logitech Wingman
Formula by Steve Blankenship, he has quite a few tips for Logi owners. I'll
just copy the CH pedal swap info here:
"2) CH(std.)Pedal Conversion
Basically, you just unscrew and open up the Logitech pedal base, unplug the
wires from the two pots (three each) and remove the cable, then plug those
same wires into the pots on the CH pedals, which you've likewise opened
(base plate and pedal covers) and removed the wiring from. Simple
wire-swapping, really, with the following fine points.
Make a note of the respective wiring hookups on both sets before you remove
anything. That way you'll have a reference for what goes where, and you can
revert later if you want to. The Logitech brake pot has three plug-in wires;
blue orange and yellow. The throttle has three also; green, red, and brown.
(viewed from the topside of the pot, opposite the shaft) The CH is slightly
different due to the two-way switch, but no matter. Just draw it or write it
down.
You can forget about the switch on the CH pedals for single/dual axis; you
don't need it now. Just leave it alone and keep the whole CH harness as-is,
in case you ever want to revert. On the Logitech cable, all you have to do
is remove a few inches of the outer cable sheath (being careful not to cut
the inner wires) to be able to route the appropriate internal wires into the
CH pedal pods and slit and remove the rubber plug around the cable that
seals up the pedal base so it can be used again if needed. You'll also need
to "V" out the first couple of slits in the CH base where the tiny wires run
through, so you can get the bottom cover to fit over the Logitech cable,
unless you remove the outer cable sheath that far back. I used a really high
tech serrated kitchen knife on the base.:-)"
<NOTE: Instead of cutting my cable covering, I made short extensions using
the same size blade connectors and some old telephone wire - dph>
"Once your wires are prepped, just route them into the CH pedals just like
the CH wires were done, with the Logitech brake wires to the CH brake,
throttle to throttle, etc. NOTE: You have to reverse the order of the brake
wires from how they came off the Logitech brake pedal pot, as where it had
rotated clockwise, both CH pots rotate counterclockwise. The wiring order
for the gas pedal pot stays the same as it was. You'll have to bend the
little plugs 90 degrees like the CH ones were, so the pots will sit properly
in their happy homes as before. Note how much nicer the CH pots look?
Hmmmmm. Once you're all connected, screw the covers back on that sucker,
hook it up, boot up and calibrate."
I hope this helps. I've had these pedals for over 3 years now, used them
first with my TM GP1 and now my LWFF. I've never had to change a pot or a
spring, and I find them to be very comfortable in long races.
--
don
New GPL Programs for the Converted Tracks:
http://www.ianparker1.plus.com/gpl/bapom/
Simple LWFF pedal solution - take them into the garden with a big sledge
hammer and....<g>
End of problem.
Where did you get them at that price and are they gameport OR USB? How easy
was it to rewire? Any spot on the net with instructions? I'm tired of
using my TSW2 pedals in GPL and then going back to LWFF for everything else.
TIA
--
Joe Marques
Please remove "NO SPAM" to e-mail me.
"don hodgdon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:8ohcoh$vm$[email hidden]...
>
> Mike Dietz <[email hidden]> wrote in message
> news:[email hidden]...
> . I just couldn't
> > justify spending $ 100 for the CH pedals that didn't work with all
> > titles with my LWFF, and what the heck do you do with the extra
> > set of pedals.
>
> My CH pedals only cost $50.00, and as far as what to do with the extra set
> of pedals, throw 'em out! Use the wiring from the LWFF pedals and use it
to
> rewire the CH pedals. You then have a bitchen set of pedals that work with
> all your sims.
>
> --
> don
>
> New Programmes for the Converted GPL Tracks
> http://www.ianparker1.plus.com/gpl/bapom/
>
>
>
>
Mike Dietz wrote:
> and what the heck do you do with the extra set of pedals.
Double heel-and-toe?
BB
On August 29 2000, "don hodgdon" <[email hidden]> wrote:
> My CH pedals only cost $50.00, and as far as what to do with the extra
> set of pedals, throw 'em out! Use the wiring from the LWFF pedalsand > use it to rewire the CH pedals. You then have a bitchen set of
pedals > that work with all your sims.
You could consider these..
http://website.lineone.net/~mikebay/MTIndex.htm
MikeT.
--
- MikeT [email hidden]
http://website.lineone.net/~mikebay/MTIndex.htm
I don't know if they're sold worldwide, but I bought a $1.99 generic Nerf
football, cut it into a shape & size to fit snugly under the brake pedal
and it works great. Wonderful feel of progressively increasing
resistance. Ive used the same nerf chunk for 8 months and never replaced
it and it stays put.
Besides, I had no idea what the Hell a squash ball was.
Warlock!
Mike Dietz wrote:
Quoted text (9 lines)
> You may want to try this. It worked for me. Take a piece of foam > rubber used to insulate 1/2 in 3/4 in copper water pipe and cut to > size of pedal travel for the pedal. Cut piece length wise so you can > wrap around the pedal base and secure with electrical tape. It gives > the feel of the pedal getting firmer the more you press down and give > you a greater feeling before locking up the brakes. I just couldn't > justify spending $ 100 for the CH pedals that didn't work with all > titles with my LWFF, and what the heck do you do with the extra > set of pedals.I'm using the same thing! It's a mini-nerf that I cut and place a piece
behind the brake and gas pedals. Cheap fix for now.
--
Joe Marques
Please remove "NO SPAM" to e-mail me.
"Matt Lanzer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
> I don't know if they're sold worldwide, but I bought a $1.99 generic Nerf
> football, cut it into a shape & size to fit snugly under the brake pedal
> and it works great. Wonderful feel of progressively increasing
> resistance. Ive used the same nerf chunk for 8 months and never replaced
> it and it stays put.
> Besides, I had no idea what the Hell a squash ball was.
>
> Warlock!
>
> Mike Dietz wrote:
>
> > You may want to try this. It worked for me. Take a piece of foam
> > rubber used to insulate 1/2 in 3/4 in copper water pipe and cut to
> > size of pedal travel for the pedal. Cut piece length wise so you can
> > wrap around the pedal base and secure with electrical tape. It gives
> > the feel of the pedal getting firmer the more you press down and give
> > you a greater feeling before locking up the brakes. I just couldn't
> > justify spending $ 100 for the CH pedals that didn't work with all
> > titles with my LWFF, and what the heck do you do with the extra
> > set of pedals.
>
Send me the pots first
Jens
On Wed, 30 Aug 2000 00:31:26 GMT, "Simon Brown" <[email hidden]>
wrote:
>Simple LWFF pedal solution - take them into the garden with a big sledge
>hammer and....<g>
>
>End of problem.
>
---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://members.xoom.com/JensSchu/
GPLRank: -2.61
