Race Sim Central
Rec.Autos.Simulators Archive

Re: PDPI L4 unofficial finetune manual (can help LOTS!)

2 posts by 2 people · 18 Oct 2000 - 19 Oct 2000 01:49 UTC

Nice one Niels. I would also like to add that there is a limitation in Windows that allows only a certain number of Joystick Control entries in theregistry, before the subsequent entries are ignored. Can't remember off hand how many exactly..... but it is usually wise to delete some of the old "[L4] --------" entries for hardware that you do not have and probably will never own. This will free up a lot more room for "custom created entries". It is also worthy to note that lower resistance pots produce a quicker count during polling (this is in reference to standard gameports" so it should help curb some of the 5041 Bug issues (online instability through modems). Through research... it seems that 50K pots usually like a registry value of 18-19 for those who read this and want a quick number to try. Cheers, Schumi "Niels007" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3GqH5.40628$[email hidden]... > Unofficial manual how to finetune the PDPI L4, or even fix problems from a > bigger nature. > > I have a PDPI and it works great! And many PDPI owners agree with me, butit > may work even better! My ISP is down at the moment so I took some time > writing this manual. I've been looking for this info for ages, and finally > managed to find out how to get the PDPI working. Heck, I'll even throw ina
Quoted text (14 lines)> contents thingy so u can easily find the bits that u need to know.. > > 1) reasons to finetune > 2) before we start: info about PDPI, POTS and resistances in general > 3) before we finetune.. > 4) the actual fine tuning > > note that chapter 2 is recommended but not required to be read ;-) > > > 1) Reasons to finetune > > Three reasons: > a) wheel / joystick does not work properly. It doesnt center in
calibration:
Quoted text (10 lines)> it turns left fairly well but as I turn right it goes all weird > b) calibration and centering are ok, but I want more accurate control. > (especially for steeringwheels) > c) I've got a PDPI and want to finetune the thing despite the fact that I > may not notice the difference.. > > > 2) Before we start: > > This manual can be used for tweaking joysticks and wheels, or whatever
funny > 'old fashioned' analog controller you have. When I explain certain things,I
Quoted text (10 lines)> will use a wheel / pedal system as an example. (you guessed it, i'm a GPL > nut) > > And now, some info about the 'pot mistery'. The way pots work is actually > quite simple. Think of a typical volume knob on your stereo. turned fully > left, you'll hear nothing, i.e. the signal is blocked. Turn it fully right > and you'll hear a lot of noise, i.e. all the signal goes through. > > For a wheel, this works the opposite way: turned left all the electrical > current goes through, and fully turned right, FAR less signal goes
through.
Quoted text (7 lines)> Potentiometers are graded by their resistance, in Ohms. A 100.000ohm pot > (100k) means: the flow resistance when fully turned right is 100k ohm. > Turned fully left, the resistance is always zero ohm. > > It is best, from a theoretical point of view to use pots with not too much > resistance. I use 50k pots with great result. Why? well, when you > effectively block a lot of the signal, as you would do with, say, 400k
ohms, > there is more chance of 'small' things interfering with the weak signalthat
Quoted text (12 lines)> is left over. This is called electrical interference (iirc) and causes > jitters, maybe even a tiny bit with a PDPI. The reason why joysticks and > wheels are mostly shipped with 50+k pots are the following: > > a) lower resistance pots give you less 'range' when calibrating. Range is > the amount of 'steps' the PC reads between a full left and a full right > turn. Imagine driving a race SIM with only 10 steps of control, this would > not be accurate and you would die a horrible (virtual) death.. > > b) sometimes, only a small part of the rotation range of the pot is used. > Most pots have about 260 degrees of range. Many wheels only have 180 > degrees, so effectively you are only using 69% of the pot range, as long
as > a full left turn complies with the pot being turned fully left also. Ifthis > example was fitted with a 250k pot, you are effectively using 173k. The > difference is normally bigger with pedals. In my 'homemade' case, thepedal > rotates 30 degrees, and via a transmission I get 120 degrees on the pot.If
Quoted text (8 lines)> i use a 260 degree turning pot here, I would use 33.3% of the pot, 83.3k > with the 250k pot. Beware that the pot rotation differs a bit.. i've seen > 180 degree pots and 340 degree ones.. there are even 720 and bigger range > pots, with a sort of build in transmission, should you ever want to make a > 'lorry wheel' ;-) Pot rotation has to be taken into account as you can see > from my examples. > > In my case the PDPI didn't work at all! I had a 200k steering pot, and
PDPI > is standard optimized for 100k pots. this meant that i effectively could > only use the 1st 100k of the wheel, which was the range from full left to > center.. i couldn't turn right! this 'manual' will also solve 100k+ pot > owners, PDPI can go as high as 400kohm for sure. > > PDPI is designed for standard analog devices. One of such a device canhave > as much as 4 axis and 4 buttons. A normal joystick has 2 axis, 1 for > left-right and 1 for up-down. You will find 4 axis on a 'pro' wheel /pedals
Quoted text (14 lines)> where 3 pedals and 1 wheel take up all 4 axis. > > > 3) before we finetune > > Firstly, use 'direct-x' joystick driver, GPL for example lets you choose > between directx and generic, ONLY with directx u get all the nice filters > that eliminate the jitterbastards. To test the wheel, we need either GPL > (the sim) or If you do not have GPL (shudder) you can just as well use the > brilliant utility DirectXtweak (DXtweak) easy to be found on the web. I'll > use DXTweak to guide you though this 'pre finetuning phase' (note that GPL > and DXTweak work the same for this test) > > Start DXTweak, and move the wheel you should see some changing numbers.
Look > at the values in the 'raw' collum. PDPI has a limit of 255 range, so for > example turn full left could be 1 and turn full right can be 255 in the > 'raw' collum. On a 255 degrees turning wheel this means that (withaccurate > pots) you have an accuracy of 1 degree. (i.e. you have to turn the wheel 1 > degree to make the 'raw' collum add 1 to the value) > > BUT ladies and gents, especially for steering it is important to get asmuch > of the 255 range as possible, for accuracy. When you get total left -right > range of, say, 100 and you have a 300 degree turning wheel, youeffectively > have 100 deadzones of 3 degrees! thats poo of course, so you want these > 'steps' to be as small as posible. (up to a point of course) > > - The values seen in GPL or DXtweak are linked to the position of thepots. > Try to understand this: You can NEVER get a value 1 if your pot isn'tFULLY > turned left when the wheel is fully turned left. This is explained in > chapter 1, read that if you don't understand why. What you have to do: > > Make sure the pot is in its extreme left turned position when the wheel is > turned left. For some wheels the pot is 'fixed' and you can't easily doit. > With TSW and for example my homemade wheel, i can rotate the pot.(untighten > the nut and rotate it, then tighten it again) Fiddle with this until afull
Quoted text (7 lines)> left turn gets you between 2..5 readout in DXtweak. (note: standardized > wiring means that resistance increases (and therefor the GPL / DXtweak > value) when u turn right, i do not take into account people who wrongly > wired their wheels ;-)) Also, do NOT try this if the pot seems firmly > secured to that $50 piece of plastic.. get a decent wheel first ;-) > > That was the 'hardware' step. Now that you have done this, what is the
'raw'
Quoted text (12 lines)> value when you turn fully right? > a) if it is 250..255 => look closely when that number is reached, check if > it reaches this 'extreme' number BEFORE you fully turned the wheel to the > right. If this is the case, we need to finetune > b) it is between 240 and 255 => thats good, no need to finetune. > c) it is lower than 240 => we need to finetune this baby > > > 4) finetuning! > > This is the point where it may get scary for many of you, we have to open > the windows registry, and fiddle with numbers.. Well, it is NOT difficult
at > all, but if you are scared, get somebody else to do it for you. You CAN > screw up your pc but then you have a serious IQ problem, and you wouldnever > get this far in the manual anyway ;-) > > a) open the registry editor by clicking in windows on START.. RUN and type > REGEDIT and then press the OK button. Registry editor will load. PDPI > settings are hidden deep within the registry.. click on the followingthings
Quoted text (13 lines)> to get there: (click the +) > - HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE > - System > - CurrentControlSet > - Control > - MediaProperties > - PrivateProperties > - Joystick > - OEM > - PDPI L4 Digital Gameport > - Fine Tuning > > This is where it is located on my Win98 machine, and most likely it will
be
Quoted text (10 lines)> there on 99% of all pcs, providing you have installed the PDPI software! > > Under finetuning there are 5 listed controlsets: > [L4] Nascar Pro combined brake/gas > [L4] Nascar Pro separate brake/gas > [L4] Thrustmaster formula T1/T2 with adapter > [L4] Thrustmaster formula T1/T2 without adapter > Default > > These 5 controlsets each have 4 variables, one for each joystick axis.
(read > chapter 2 for explanation) You will find these control sets are part of a > BIG list in the 'game controllers' panel found in Control Panel. Forgeneral > understanding the following is important. > > The 4 controlsets marked [L4] have nothing to do with thrustmaster wheels. > They are nothing more than supplied finetuned controlsets that make thePDPI > read these wheels specific resistance pots. So: These controlsets contain4 > variables that change the way the PDPI > assigns values from the pot readings (as seen in DXTweak or GPL) Inlaymans
Quoted text (7 lines)> terms: > > Fiddling with the numbers in the registry will change the readouts of > DXTweak, and therefore the sims you will use the wheel with. > > I only use a wheel for my PC, which i have manually added in the game > controllers panel located in ControlPanel I named it 'Nielswheel'. If I
want > to keep using that control set I should change the values in the 'Default' > controlset, as seen underneath the 4 [L4] ones. You should to this too if > you only have 1 wheel or joystick you use. If you use 2 or more devices > either change the registry every time you switch controllers, or look atthe
Quoted text (8 lines)> 'hint' bit at the bottom of this textfile > > Click on the 'Default' and you will see in the right part of the screen: > > FineTuneInfo 26 00 00 00 26 00 00 00 26 00 00 00 26 00 00 00 > > The 4 26 values are changable. I know for sure that the 1st value is for > axis 1 (x1, the left-right movement of joysticks and wheels) I also know
for > sure that the other 3 ARE for the other 3 axis. Because I do not recallhow > i wired my pedals, I'm not sure which number is for which of the remaining3 > axis. You will find that out yourself :-) > > Look back at what your situation was at the end of chapter 3: option a, bor > c. The general rule is: > > If DXTweak shows too little numbers (sub 240) the registry value has to be > made SMALLER > > If DXTweak shows too big numbers, i.e. you reach the max 255(approximately) > before the wheel is fully turned right yet, the registry value has to be > made BIGGER > > Double click on the 'finetuneinfo' bit in front of all the numbers. Nowyou > can edit the numbers. Be carefull here. Stand in front of the 1st '26'(yes > you are right, the cursor is there already) and press the delete button. > Pressing delete 1 time will delete the whole 26 value! now type in for > example the number '20' at that same place, no need for mouse moving or > clicking, do this directly after deleting the value. > > Changing it to 20 would make a DXtweak 'raw' of 200 increase to approx250. > Bear in mind that these are Hexadecimal numbers, so its 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 89 > A B C D E F so if 20 gets you 245 and 19 gets you 255 before the end ofthe > wheel range, maybe 1C will do the trick. Just try different numbers until > you get the perfect readout in DXtweak > > You have to reboot the PC before changes will take affect! Try this foreach
Quoted text (19 lines)> axis until you get ideally 1...255 range for all, or more realistically > 3..250. > > Thats it! now you can make PDPI work with higher resistance pots by making > the registry numbers bigger, and you can get the biggest range possible! > From 10 to 400k pots for sure! > > Hint: you can customize the 4 [L4] controlsets to make them suit other > devices you may have. Remember which of the [L4] ones is for which of your > devices, and you can easily select them in 'game controllers' in > controlpanel. You MAY be able to rename the [L4] ones to > 'mycrappyoldjoystick' or whatever, but i didnt have the guts to try ;-) > > Niels Heusinkveld > > > > >
Niels007 19 Oct 2000 01:49 UTC#225850
Unofficial manual how to finetune the PDPI L4, or even fix problems from a bigger nature. I have a PDPI and it works great! And many PDPI owners agree with me, but it may work even better! My ISP is down at the moment so I took some time writing this manual. I've been looking for this info for ages, and finally managed to find out how to get the PDPI working. Heck, I'll even throw in a contents thingy so u can easily find the bits that u need to know.. 1) reasons to finetune 2) before we start: info about PDPI, POTS and resistances in general 3) before we finetune.. 4) the actual fine tuning note that chapter 2 is recommended but not required to be read ;-) 1) Reasons to finetune Three reasons: a) wheel / joystick does not work properly. It doesnt center in calibration: it turns left fairly well but as I turn right it goes all weird b) calibration and centering are ok, but I want more accurate control. (especially for steeringwheels) c) I've got a PDPI and want to finetune the thing despite the fact that I may not notice the difference.. 2) Before we start: This manual can be used for tweaking joysticks and wheels, or whatever funny 'old fashioned' analog controller you have. When I explain certain things, I will use a wheel / pedal system as an example. (you guessed it, i'm a GPL nut) And now, some info about the 'pot mistery'. The way pots work is actually quite simple. Think of a typical volume knob on your stereo. turned fully left, you'll hear nothing, i.e. the signal is blocked. Turn it fully right and you'll hear a lot of noise, i.e. all the signal goes through. For a wheel, this works the opposite way: turned left all the electrical current goes through, and fully turned right, FAR less signal goes through. Potentiometers are graded by their resistance, in Ohms. A 100.000ohm pot (100k) means: the flow resistance when fully turned right is 100k ohm. Turned fully left, the resistance is always zero ohm. It is best, from a theoretical point of view to use pots with not too much resistance. I use 50k pots with great result. Why? well, when you effectively block a lot of the signal, as you would do with, say, 400k ohms, there is more chance of 'small' things interfering with the weak signal that is left over. This is called electrical interference (iirc) and causes jitters, maybe even a tiny bit with a PDPI. The reason why joysticks and wheels are mostly shipped with 50+k pots are the following: a) lower resistance pots give you less 'range' when calibrating. Range is the amount of 'steps' the PC reads between a full left and a full right turn. Imagine driving a race SIM with only 10 steps of control, this would not be accurate and you would die a horrible (virtual) death.. b) sometimes, only a small part of the rotation range of the pot is used. Most pots have about 260 degrees of range. Many wheels only have 180 degrees, so effectively you are only using 69% of the pot range, as long as a full left turn complies with the pot being turned fully left also. If this example was fitted with a 250k pot, you are effectively using 173k. The difference is normally bigger with pedals. In my 'homemade' case, the pedal rotates 30 degrees, and via a transmission I get 120 degrees on the pot. If i use a 260 degree turning pot here, I would use 33.3% of the pot, 83.3k with the 250k pot. Beware that the pot rotation differs a bit.. i've seen 180 degree pots and 340 degree ones.. there are even 720 and bigger range pots, with a sort of build in transmission, should you ever want to make a 'lorry wheel' ;-) Pot rotation has to be taken into account as you can see from my examples. In my case the PDPI didn't work at all! I had a 200k steering pot, and PDPI is standard optimized for 100k pots. this meant that i effectively could only use the 1st 100k of the wheel, which was the range from full left to center.. i couldn't turn right! this 'manual' will also solve 100k+ pot owners, PDPI can go as high as 400kohm for sure. PDPI is designed for standard analog devices. One of such a device can have as much as 4 axis and 4 buttons. A normal joystick has 2 axis, 1 for left-right and 1 for up-down. You will find 4 axis on a 'pro' wheel / pedals where 3 pedals and 1 wheel take up all 4 axis. 3) before we finetune Firstly, use 'direct-x' joystick driver, GPL for example lets you choose between directx and generic, ONLY with directx u get all the nice filters that eliminate the jitterbastards. To test the wheel, we need either GPL (the sim) or If you do not have GPL (shudder) you can just as well use the brilliant utility DirectXtweak (DXtweak) easy to be found on the web. I'll use DXTweak to guide you though this 'pre finetuning phase' (note that GPL and DXTweak work the same for this test) Start DXTweak, and move the wheel you should see some changing numbers. Look at the values in the 'raw' collum. PDPI has a limit of 255 range, so for example turn full left could be 1 and turn full right can be 255 in the 'raw' collum. On a 255 degrees turning wheel this means that (with accurate pots) you have an accuracy of 1 degree. (i.e. you have to turn the wheel 1 degree to make the 'raw' collum add 1 to the value) BUT ladies and gents, especially for steering it is important to get as much of the 255 range as possible, for accuracy. When you get total left - right range of, say, 100 and you have a 300 degree turning wheel, you effectively have 100 deadzones of 3 degrees! thats poo of course, so you want these 'steps' to be as small as posible. (up to a point of course) - The values seen in GPL or DXtweak are linked to the position of the pots. Try to understand this: You can NEVER get a value 1 if your pot isn't FULLY turned left when the wheel is fully turned left. This is explained in chapter 1, read that if you don't understand why. What you have to do: Make sure the pot is in its extreme left turned position when the wheel is turned left. For some wheels the pot is 'fixed' and you can't easily do it. With TSW and for example my homemade wheel, i can rotate the pot. (untighten the nut and rotate it, then tighten it again) Fiddle with this until a full left turn gets you between 2..5 readout in DXtweak. (note: standardized wiring means that resistance increases (and therefor the GPL / DXtweak value) when u turn right, i do not take into account people who wrongly wired their wheels ;-)) Also, do NOT try this if the pot seems firmly secured to that $50 piece of plastic.. get a decent wheel first ;-) That was the 'hardware' step. Now that you have done this, what is the 'raw' value when you turn fully right? a) if it is 250..255 => look closely when that number is reached, check if it reaches this 'extreme' number BEFORE you fully turned the wheel to the right. If this is the case, we need to finetune b) it is between 240 and 255 => thats good, no need to finetune. c) it is lower than 240 => we need to finetune this baby 4) finetuning! This is the point where it may get scary for many of you, we have to open the windows registry, and fiddle with numbers.. Well, it is NOT difficult at all, but if you are scared, get somebody else to do it for you. You CAN screw up your pc but then you have a serious IQ problem, and you would never get this far in the manual anyway ;-) a) open the registry editor by clicking in windows on START.. RUN and type REGEDIT and then press the OK button. Registry editor will load. PDPI settings are hidden deep within the registry.. click on the following things to get there: (click the +) - HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE - System - CurrentControlSet - Control - MediaProperties - PrivateProperties - Joystick - OEM - PDPI L4 Digital Gameport - Fine Tuning This is where it is located on my Win98 machine, and most likely it will be there on 99% of all pcs, providing you have installed the PDPI software! Under finetuning there are 5 listed controlsets: [L4] Nascar Pro combined brake/gas [L4] Nascar Pro separate brake/gas [L4] Thrustmaster formula T1/T2 with adapter [L4] Thrustmaster formula T1/T2 without adapter Default These 5 controlsets each have 4 variables, one for each joystick axis. (read chapter 2 for explanation) You will find these control sets are part of a BIG list in the 'game controllers' panel found in Control Panel. For general understanding the following is important. The 4 controlsets marked [L4] have nothing to do with thrustmaster wheels. They are nothing more than supplied finetuned controlsets that make the PDPI read these wheels specific resistance pots. So: These controlsets contain 4 variables that change the way the PDPI assigns values from the pot readings (as seen in DXTweak or GPL) In laymans terms: Fiddling with the numbers in the registry will change the readouts of DXTweak, and therefore the sims you will use the wheel with. I only use a wheel for my PC, which i have manually added in the game controllers panel located in ControlPanel I named it 'Nielswheel'. If I want to keep using that control set I should change the values in the 'Default' controlset, as seen underneath the 4 [L4] ones. You should to this too if you only have 1 wheel or joystick you use. If you use 2 or more devices either change the registry every time you switch controllers, or look at the 'hint' bit at the bottom of this textfile Click on the 'Default' and you will see in the right part of the screen: FineTuneInfo 26 00 00 00 26 00 00 00 26 00 00 00 26 00 00 00 The 4 26 values are changable. I know for sure that the 1st value is for axis 1 (x1, the left-right movement of joysticks and wheels) I also know for sure that the other 3 ARE for the other 3 axis. Because I do not recall how i wired my pedals, I'm not sure which number is for which of the remaining 3 axis. You will find that out yourself :-) Look back at what your situation was at the end of chapter 3: option a, b or c. The general rule is: If DXTweak shows too little numbers (sub 240) the registry value has to be made SMALLER If DXTweak shows too big numbers, i.e. you reach the max 255 (approximately) before the wheel is fully turned right yet, the registry value has to be made BIGGER Double click on the 'finetuneinfo' bit in front of all the numbers. Now you can edit the numbers. Be carefull here. Stand in front of the 1st '26' (yes you are right, the cursor is there already) and press the delete button. Pressing delete 1 time will delete the whole 26 value! now type in for example the number '20' at that same place, no need for mouse moving or clicking, do this directly after deleting the value. Changing it to 20 would make a DXtweak 'raw' of 200 increase to approx 250. Bear in mind that these are Hexadecimal numbers, so its 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F so if 20 gets you 245 and 19 gets you 255 before the end of the wheel range, maybe 1C will do the trick. Just try different numbers until you get the perfect readout in DXtweak You have to reboot the PC before changes will take affect! Try this for each axis until you get ideally 1...255 range for all, or more realistically 3..250. Thats it! now you can make PDPI work with higher resistance pots by making the registry numbers bigger, and you can get the biggest range possible! From 10 to 400k pots for sure! Hint: you can customize the 4 [L4] controlsets to make them suit other devices you may have. Remember which of the [L4] ones is for which of your devices, and you can easily select them in 'game controllers' in controlpanel. You MAY be able to rename the [L4] ones to 'mycrappyoldjoystick' or whatever, but i didnt have the guts to try ;-) Niels Heusinkveld

Sponsors

Affiliate Links

Sim Gaming Expo MOZA Racing Sim-Lab Fanatec TrakRacer Asetek Internet Privacy From NordVPN Dreamhost Capital One Credit Card Application Fanatical CDKeys Amazon Amazon UK Project Motor Racing iRacing Get your racing gloves, boots and more from Demon Tweeks. Enlist at Roberts Space Industries, developers of Star Citizen and Squadron 42


Back from the ashes since July, 2019. First created in 2001 with the merger of Legends Central (founded 1999) and simracing.dk.

A site by a sort of sim racer, for sim racers, about racing sims. News and information on both modern and historic sim racing software titles.

All products and licenses property of their respective owners.


Facebook Threads Bluesky Twitter Mastodon Instagram YouTube Tiktok Twitch Reddit Google News Apple News Subscribe via WordPress Flipboard eBay

Race Sim Central © 1999-2026 | Some links pay RSC a commission. Advertising does not equal endorsement.Cookie Policy