CH pedals & Logitec Formula

My nephew has a Logitec Formula (no FF) wheel. I'd like to get him some decent pedals for Xmas, and have some dopey questions. I think I remember DH users here saying that the best pedals for GPL were the CH Pedals, not the Pro Pedals. How complicated is it to hook these up to a Logitech wheel? I would just rewire the pedals with the Logitech wiring, but I won't be around and would like to have a simpler solution for him, he's not very experienced with hacking stuff together. He's got one gameport in the soundcard, and the wheel is not USB. Thanks, Don McCorkle

I the CH pedals have what is known as a "y" connector, which allows you to connect the pedals and a joysitck (or the wheel, in this case) simultaneously through one gameport. Before my LWFF, which is USB, I used this method and it worked well. Then if he wants to get a flight joystick, or something, he can get an USB one, and it's work fine... L.S. "Woodie 83" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > My nephew has a Logitec Formula (no FF) wheel. I'd like to get him somedecent > pedals for Xmas, and have some dopey questions. I think I remember DHusers > here saying that the best pedals for GPL were the CH Pedals, not the Pro > Pedals. How complicated is it to hook these up to a Logitech wheel? Iwould > just rewire the pedals with the Logitech wiring, but I won't be around and > would like to have a simpler solution for him, he's not very experiencedwith > hacking stuff together. He's got one gameport in the soundcard, and thewheel > is not USB. > > > Thanks, > Don McCorkle >

"Andre Warringa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > On Sun, 05 Nov 2000 03:59:17 GMT, "Brian Bowles" <[email hidden]> > wrote: > >The ch pedals are quality pedals, but I could not use them. They pivot in > >the middle. It is very hard to get used to them. I use my thrustmaster > >nascar pro pedals. I like them much better. You can get the whole nascarpro

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> >wheel and pedals from Sams for only $39.99. > Question of taste I guess, I had to get used to them, took me a couple > of hours to get back to my pb's, but after that I had much more > control, broke all my pb's, and now I can't live without my CH pedals. > Yes, it has come that far :) > PS First thing I did was putting a squashball under the brake pedal, > that helps a lot.

I've been thinking about getting the CH pedals for my LWFF, mainly because of the fact that you can constantly rest your feet on these pedals. But I have some questions: - Is the installation straightforward, or do you have to rewire them to the LWFF (which is USB)? - How limited is the number of games with which you can use them? How about a game like NFSPU for instance? - Can you easily switch back and forth between the CH and the Logitech pedals? Also, I remember a webpage dedicated to the LWFF+CH combination, but I can't find it anymore. Anybody? Thanks, Ice D

"Phil Lee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:DndN5.28009$[email hidden]...

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> "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3a055890$0$2314@reader2... > > - Is the installation straightforward, or do you have to rewire them to > the > > LWFF (which is USB)? > > > > I use CH Pedals with both an Act Lbs Force RS and an LWFF. The CH Pedals > are connected to the gameport of an SB Live! 1024 and the wheels are > connected using USB. > I use two utilities from the Stickworks (http://www.stickworks.com) called > Joyregs and Joyclick to set up the CH Pedals. Joyregs comes with 3

registry > modification files to create 3 new game controller entries. Using the > R_Only option cretaes a game controller called R Only. To callibrate this > controller, start up the Joyclick utility and then go into thecallibration > screen for the controller. Use Joyclick to simulate joystick buttonclicks > and follow the on-screen instructions to callibrate the controller. TheCH > Pedals are then assigned to the X and Y axes of controller 2.[...] > I hope I was of some assistance. > > Cheers Thanks for your reply, very helpful indeed! Ice D

"Andre Warringa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > On Sun, 5 Nov 2000 13:54:30 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote: > >- How limited is the number of games with which you can use them? Howabout > >a game like NFSPU for instance? > Not too many games support 2 devices. Let me think... GPL, RC2000, 4x4 > Evolution, ehh... anyone know more games? According to Phil: Grand Prix Legends Grand Prix 3 Rally Championship (with some special tweaks) Superbike 2001 GP 500 NFSPU > >- Can you easily switch back and forth between the CH and the Logitech > >pedals? > > If you don't do the rewiring, yes, very easy. Just choose your pedals > in the calibration option of the game. Yes, without rewiring I guess it's no problem. One last question: where did you buy the CH pedals in the Netherlands? http://www.flightbase.nl/? (Even aannemende dat je uit Nederland komt: ik zag ze bij Flightbase voor fl.169,-. Goeie deal?) Ice D

"Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3a055890$0$2314@reader2... > I've been thinking about getting the CH pedals for my LWFF, mainly because > of the fact that you can constantly rest your feet on these pedals. But I > have some questions: > > - Is the installation straightforward, or do you have to rewire them tothe > LWFF (which is USB)? I've been using the LWFF since it was first released. For the first month or so, I experimented with stiffer springs in the pedals, squash balls, door stops and all manner of duct tape. Finally I decided to rewire my old CH pedals using the wiring harness from the Logitech pedals. The swap took less than 1/2 hour and I've never had to screw around with them since. In simplified form, all you are doing is pulling the connectors off the pots on the Logi pedals and sliding them on the pots in the CH pedals. The following is an email recieved from Steve Blankenship which explains the procedure (a million thanks Steve!): "Sorry for the slow reply. It's not a tough job to convert the pedals, actually; took me about 45 minutes, plodding cautiously along. Mine's not FF, but since the pedals aren't powered and don't use FF it should be the same for you. Basically, you just unscrew and open up the Logitech pedal base, unplug the wires from the two pots (three each) and remove the cable, then plug those same wires into the pots on the CH pedals, which you've likewise opened (base plate and pedal covers) and removed the wiring from. Simple wire-swapping, really, with the following fine points. Make a note of the respective wiring hookups on both sets before you remove anything. That way you'll have a reference for what goes where, and you can revert later if you want to. The Logitech brake pot has three plug-in wires; blue orange and yellow. The throttle has three also; green, red, and brown. (viewed from the topside of the pot, opposite the shaft) The CH is slightly different due to the two-way switch, but no matter. Just draw it or write it down. You can forget about the switch on the CH pedals for single/dual axis; you don't need it now. Just leave it alone and keep the whole CH harness as-is, in case you ever want to revert. On the Logitech cable, all you have to do is remove a few inches of the plastic cable sheath (being careful not to cut the inner wires) to be able to route the appropriate internal wires into the CH pedal pods and slit and remove the rubber plug around the cable that seals up the pedal base so it can be used again if needed. You'll also need to "V" out the first couple of slits in the CH base where the tiny wires run through, so you can get the bottom cover to fit over the Logitech cable, unless you remove the outer cable sheath that far back. I used a serrated knife on the base- really high tech. Once your wires are prepped, just route them into the CH pedals just like the CH wires were done, with the Logitech brake wires to the CH brake, throttle to throttle, etc. NOTE: You have to reverse the order of the brake wires from how they came off the Logitech brake pedal pot, as where it had rotated clockwise, both CH pots rotate counterclockwise. The wiring order for the gas pedal pot stays the same as it was. You'll have to bend the little plugs 90 degrees like the CH ones were, so the pots will sit properly in their happy homes as before. Note how much spiffier the CH pots look? Hmmmmm. Once you're all connected, screw the covers back on that sucker, hook it up, boot up and calibrate. Happy feet! For fun, calibrate your Logitech pedals in GPL before you do this. Try to hit and hold a reading midway through the pedal travel, say .500. Then try to move smoothly to .600. See how hard it is? When you're done, do it with the CH pedals. That's why we love 'em so. PRECISION. Oh well; hope I made sense. It's really easier than it sounds. Just pop them open side by side and it'll be obvious..." Just a note from my own conversion, in order not to cut into the plastic sheath on the Logitech wiring, I made short (six inch) extensions using some old telephone wire and connectors from the local electronics shop (Not Radio Shack, they do not carry blade connectors that small). This made running the small wires through the CH pedal base a bit easier. This rig works for every sim I've ever tried. -- don New GPL Programs for the Converted Tracks: http://www.ianparker.co.uk/gpl/bapom/ You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.

"don hodgdon" <[email hidden]> wrote: > I've been using the LWFF since it was first released. For the first monthor > so, I experimented with stiffer springs in the pedals, squash balls, door > stops and all manner of duct tape. Finally I decided to rewire my old CH > pedals using the wiring harness from the Logitech pedals. The swap tookless > than 1/2 hour and I've never had to screw around with them since. In > simplified form, all you are doing is pulling the connectors off the potson > the Logi pedals and sliding them on the pots in the CH pedals. > > The following is an email recieved from Steve Blankenship which explainsthe > procedure (a million thanks Steve!):[...] I recognize this 'manual' from a webpage somewhere. I remember there were some pictures that explained the wiring, but I can't find that page no more (Allison's page according to Andre, but it seems to be off the air). > Just a note from my own conversion, in order not to cut into the plastic > sheath on the Logitech wiring, I made short (six inch) extensions usingsome > old telephone wire and connectors from the local electronics shop (NotRadio > Shack, they do not carry blade connectors that small). This made runningthe > small wires through the CH pedal base a bit easier. > > This rig works for every sim I've ever tried. I appreciate your technical instructions, and I'll save your message. However, I must admit I'm really no good at all this wiring stuff. If I were to buy the CH pedals at all, I'd probably set them up as a stand alone controller. Thanks, Ice D

The ch pedals are quality pedals, but I could not use them. They pivot in the middle. It is very hard to get used to them. I use my thrustmaster nascar pro pedals. I like them much better. You can get the whole nascar pro wheel and pedals from Sams for only $39.99. Brian Bowles "Woodie 83" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > My nephew has a Logitec Formula (no FF) wheel. I'd like to get him somedecent > pedals for Xmas, and have some dopey questions. I think I remember DHusers > here saying that the best pedals for GPL were the CH Pedals, not the Pro > Pedals. How complicated is it to hook these up to a Logitech wheel? Iwould > just rewire the pedals with the Logitech wiring, but I won't be around and > would like to have a simpler solution for him, he's not very experiencedwith > hacking stuff together. He's got one gameport in the soundcard, and thewheel > is not USB. > > > Thanks, > Don McCorkle >

On Sun, 05 Nov 2000 03:59:17 GMT, "Brian Bowles" <[email hidden]> wrote: >The ch pedals are quality pedals, but I could not use them. They pivot in >the middle. It is very hard to get used to them. I use my thrustmaster >nascar pro pedals. I like them much better. You can get the whole nascar pro >wheel and pedals from Sams for only $39.99. Question of taste I guess, I had to get used to them, took me a couple of hours to get back to my pb's, but after that I had much more control, broke all my pb's, and now I can't live without my CH pedals. Yes, it has come that far :) PS First thing I did was putting a squashball under the brake pedal, that helps a lot. Andre >Brian Bowles

"Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3a055890$0$2314@reader2... > > > - Is the installation straightforward, or do you have to rewire them tothe > LWFF (which is USB)? > I use CH Pedals with both an Act Lbs Force RS and an LWFF. The CH Pedals are connected to the gameport of an SB Live! 1024 and the wheels are connected using USB. I use two utilities from the Stickworks (http://www.stickworks.com) called Joyregs and Joyclick to set up the CH Pedals. Joyregs comes with 3 registry modification files to create 3 new game controller entries. Using the R_Only option cretaes a game controller called R Only. To callibrate this controller, start up the Joyclick utility and then go into the callibration screen for the controller. Use Joyclick to simulate joystick button clicks and follow the on-screen instructions to callibrate the controller. The CH Pedals are then assigned to the X and Y axes of controller 2. > - How limited is the number of games with which you can use them? Howabout > a game like NFSPU for instance? > I have used this combination of controllers in the following sims: Grand Prix Legends Grand Prix 3 Rally Championship (with some special tweaks) Superbike 2001 GP 500 NFSPU The CH Pedals set up using this method are not supported in the following sims: Dirt Track Racing Dirt Track Racing: Sprint Cars Nascar Heat Viper Racing > - Can you easily switch back and forth between the CH and the Logitech > pedals? > The Logitech Pedals are always available using this method though why you would want to use them is beyond me. > Also, I remember a webpage dedicated to the LWFF+CH combination, but Ican't > find it anymore. Anybody? > Sorry, I can't help on this one. > Thanks, > > Ice D > No problem, I hope I was of some assistance. Cheers Phil -- F1 GPL Handicap: +19.30 secs F2 GPL Handicap: +130.82 secs Currently running in the F2 Festival League at http://www.geocities.com/f2_festival

On Sun, 5 Nov 2000 13:54:30 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote: >I've been thinking about getting the CH pedals for my LWFF, mainly because >of the fact that you can constantly rest your feet on these pedals. But I >have some questions: > >- Is the installation straightforward, or do you have to rewire them to the >LWFF (which is USB)? Not all games accept 2 devices. I mainly use the pedals for GPL, which has no problems recognizing 2 devices, and in that case installation is a piece of cake: LWFF in the USB port, CH pedals in the gameport, that's it. If you want to use the pedals with games that only support one device, you have to do some (simple) rewiring. But for games that require very fast brake and throttle work, RC2000 for example, I prefer the LWFF pedals with it's short range, so I didn't do the rewiring. >- How limited is the number of games with which you can use them? How about >a game like NFSPU for instance? Not too many games support 2 devices. Let me think... GPL, RC2000, 4x4 Evolution, ehh... anyone know more games? >- Can you easily switch back and forth between the CH and the Logitech >pedals? If you don't do the rewiring, yes, very easy. Just choose your pedals in the calibration option of the game. > >Also, I remember a webpage dedicated to the LWFF+CH combination, but I can't >find it anymore. Anybody? Alison has got the rewiring info on her site (she also uses the LWFF with CH pedals) but unfortunately her site is down at the moment, check back later: http://server10.cwihosting.com/alison/gpl/ Andre >Thanks, > >Ice D > >

"Andre Warringa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> On Sun, 5 Nov 2000 17:19:39 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote: > > <snip> > >One last question: where did you buy the CH pedals in the Netherlands? > >http://www.flightbase.nl/? > I bought them at www.comcol.nl, ordered them on a Saturday, they > arrived the next Monday. They're also f169,- there, and the CH Pro > pedals (the ones I ordered) are f299,-.

Thanks. The PRO pedals? I always figured they were actually less suitable for racing, because of the sliding motion (or rudder control). Is this something you can switch off, or is it not annoying anyway? Ice D

"Andre Warringa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> On Mon, 6 Nov 2000 11:45:12 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote: > >Thanks. The PRO pedals? I always figured they were actually less suitable > >for racing, because of the sliding motion (or rudder control). Is this > >something you can switch off, or is it not annoying anyway? > You get 2 ehh.. thingies with the pro pedals, when you put them behind > the pedals you don't have the rudder movement. If you play flight > sims, you should choose the Pro version. For racing games only the > normal CH pedals are perfect.

Aahh, thingies. That figures. Ok, I guess all of my questions have been answered (for now). Cheers, Ice D

On Sun, 5 Nov 2000 17:19:39 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote: <snip> >One last question: where did you buy the CH pedals in the Netherlands? >http://www.flightbase.nl/? >(Even aannemende dat je uit Nederland komt: ik zag ze bij Flightbase voor >fl.169,-. Goeie deal?) I bought them at www.comcol.nl, ordered them on a Saturday, they arrived the next Monday. They're also f169,- there, and the CH Pro pedals (the ones I ordered) are f299,-. Andre >Ice D > >

anybody done the CH peddles with the ACT labs Force RS wheel ? Maybe a how-to on this? Duel don hodgdon wrote:

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> "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3a055890$0$2314@reader2... > > I've been thinking about getting the CH pedals for my LWFF, mainly because > > of the fact that you can constantly rest your feet on these pedals. But I > > have some questions: > > > > - Is the installation straightforward, or do you have to rewire them to > the > > LWFF (which is USB)? > > I've been using the LWFF since it was first released. For the first month or > so, I experimented with stiffer springs in the pedals, squash balls, door > stops and all manner of duct tape. Finally I decided to rewire my old CH > pedals using the wiring harness from the Logitech pedals. The swap took less > than 1/2 hour and I've never had to screw around with them since. In > simplified form, all you are doing is pulling the connectors off the pots on > the Logi pedals and sliding them on the pots in the CH pedals. > > The following is an email recieved from Steve Blankenship which explains the > procedure (a million thanks Steve!): > > "Sorry for the slow reply. It's not a tough job to convert the pedals, > actually; took me about 45 minutes, plodding cautiously along. Mine's not > FF, but since the pedals aren't powered and don't use FF it should be the > same for you. Basically, you just unscrew and open up the Logitech pedal > base, unplug the wires from the two pots (three each) and remove the cable, > then plug those same wires into the pots on the CH pedals, which you've > likewise opened (base plate and pedal covers) and removed the wiring from. > Simple wire-swapping, really, with the following fine points. > > Make a note of the respective wiring hookups on both sets before you remove > anything. That way you'll have a reference for what goes where, and you can > revert later if you want to. The Logitech brake pot has three plug-in > wires; blue orange and yellow. The throttle has three also; green, red, and > brown. (viewed from the topside of the pot, opposite the shaft) The CH is > slightly different due to the two-way switch, but no matter. Just draw it > or write it down. > > You can forget about the switch on the CH pedals for single/dual axis; you > don't need it now. Just leave it alone and keep the whole CH harness as-is, > in case you ever want to revert. On the Logitech cable, all you have to do > is remove a few inches of the plastic cable sheath (being careful not to cut > the inner wires) to be able to route the appropriate internal wires into the > CH pedal pods and slit and remove the rubber plug around the cable that > seals up the pedal base so it can be used again if needed. You'll also need > to "V" out the first couple of slits in the CH base where the tiny wires run > through, so you can get the bottom cover to fit over the Logitech cable, > unless you remove the outer cable sheath that far back. I used a serrated > knife on the base- really high tech. > > Once your wires are prepped, just route them into the CH pedals just like > the CH wires were done, with the Logitech brake wires to the CH brake, > throttle to throttle, etc. NOTE: You have to reverse the order of the > brake wires from how they came off the Logitech brake pedal pot, as where it > had rotated clockwise, both CH pots rotate counterclockwise. The wiring > order for the gas pedal pot stays the same as it was. You'll have to bend > the little plugs 90 degrees like the CH ones were, so the pots will sit > properly in their happy homes as before. Note how much spiffier the CH pots > look? Hmmmmm. > > Once you're all connected, screw the covers back on that sucker, hook it > up, boot up and calibrate. Happy feet! For fun, calibrate your Logitech > pedals in GPL before you do this. Try to hit and hold a reading midway > through the pedal travel, say .500. Then try to move smoothly to .600. See > how hard it is? When you're done, do it with the CH pedals. That's why we > love 'em so. PRECISION. Oh well; hope I made sense. It's really easier > than it sounds. Just pop them open side by side and it'll be obvious..." > > Just a note from my own conversion, in order not to cut into the plastic > sheath on the Logitech wiring, I made short (six inch) extensions using some > old telephone wire and connectors from the local electronics shop (Not Radio > Shack, they do not carry blade connectors that small). This made running the > small wires through the CH pedal base a bit easier. > > This rig works for every sim I've ever tried. > > -- > don > > New GPL Programs for the Converted Tracks: > http://www.ianparker.co.uk/gpl/bapom/ > > You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be > misquoted, then used against you.

On Mon, 6 Nov 2000 11:45:12 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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> >"Andre Warringa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message >news:[email hidden]... >> On Sun, 5 Nov 2000 17:19:39 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote: >> >> <snip> >> >One last question: where did you buy the CH pedals in the Netherlands? >> >http://www.flightbase.nl/? > >> I bought them at www.comcol.nl, ordered them on a Saturday, they >> arrived the next Monday. They're also f169,- there, and the CH Pro >> pedals (the ones I ordered) are f299,-. > >Thanks. The PRO pedals? I always figured they were actually less suitable >for racing, because of the sliding motion (or rudder control). Is this >something you can switch off, or is it not annoying anyway?

You get 2 ehh.. thingies with the pro pedals, when you put them behind the pedals you don't have the rudder movement. If you play flight sims, you should choose the Pro version. For racing games only the normal CH pedals are perfect. Andre > >Ice D > > >

On Mon, 6 Nov 2000 15:16:38 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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> >"Andre Warringa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message >news:[email hidden]... >> On Mon, 6 Nov 2000 11:45:12 +0100, "Ice D" <[email hidden]> wrote: > >> >Thanks. The PRO pedals? I always figured they were actually less suitable >> >for racing, because of the sliding motion (or rudder control). Is this >> >something you can switch off, or is it not annoying anyway? > >> You get 2 ehh.. thingies with the pro pedals, when you put them behind >> the pedals you don't have the rudder movement. If you play flight >> sims, you should choose the Pro version. For racing games only the >> normal CH pedals are perfect. > >Aahh, thingies. That figures. Ok, I guess all of my questions have been >answered (for now).

You're welcome my friend :) Andre

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> >Cheers, > >Ice D > > >