the throttle/ brake pot on my trust F1 racemaster controller went tits-up
last night so no more racing for me until its repaired.
I checked it with my pocket meter after I removed it and it has a couple of
"dead spots".
Now the thing is that it is a singl 100k ohm miniature pot, and all of the
homebuild race controller pages recommend using 2 500kohm pots (one for
throttle, one for brake) .
1 What would happen if I used a single 500k pot instead of the 100k?
2 In the windows controller config the steering crosshairs move slowly left
and right but even when new the throttle /brake movement was very jerky, is
this normal?
Thanks in advance for any help
SEM
100k or 500k will work. I use 100k and so do some controllers but 500k works
also( I guess its suppose to give better range of values, but I did not see a
real difference). Windows allows for 4 different axis inputs (Steering,throttle,
brake, clutch or for what ever else you want) so you could have a pot for each
axis. Some controllers or games make it simple and just use 2 axis with a pot on
each(one pot for steering and combine throttle and brake on the other axis). I
dont know about the F1 racemaster.
1- It should work ok with single 500k pot if the wires go to a game card
joyport, unless its going to a circuit board in the controller that is for USB
or digital signal, then it might want to see 100k pot values.
2-The throttle/brake should move smoothly like the steering when new, unless the
pedals are not designed well and wont move smoothly, or the pot has a problem or
loose in its mount.
Try removing the pot from the controller with the wires still connected and turn
it by hand to see if it moves smooth in Windows Controller setup.
Lutrell
SEM wrote in message <8v781d$7l0$[email hidden]>...
>
>1 What would happen if I used a single 500k pot instead of the 100k?
>2 In the windows controller config the steering crosshairs move slowly left
>and right but even when new the throttle /brake movement was very jerky, is
>this normal?
>
