CH non-pro Pedals - opinions?

I'm looking at investing in a set of these after I managed to break my microsoft ones cos I opened em up and tried to increase the spring strength - resulting in snapping the base plate. Does anyone have any comment on the CH Pedals? Quality and suitability for GPL? Strength of the brake pedal spring?

I've used mine (non-pro) for years. They are the absolute best in my opinion. I recently re-wired them for my LWFF wheel. Wouldn't want to drive with anything else. L.S. "Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > I'm looking at investing in a set of these after I managed to break my > microsoft ones cos I opened em up and tried to increase the spring > strength - resulting in snapping the base plate. > > Does anyone have any comment on the CH Pedals? Quality and suitability > for GPL? Strength of the brake pedal spring?

On Sun, 21 Jan 2001 14:03:07 -0500, "Luis Soto" <[email hidden]> wrote: >I've used mine (non-pro) for years. They are the absolute best in my >opinion. >I recently re-wired them for my LWFF wheel. Wouldn't want to drive with >anything else. >L.S. Thanks. How about the brake pedal strength? And you had to rewire them?? Can't you run them straight into the back of the PC?

>"Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote > Thanks. How about the brake pedal strength? Both pedals are of the same. Since the travel is quite high, you can modulate both pedals easily and at great range. > And you had to rewire them?? Can't you run them straight into the back > of the PC? It works like an Y-joystick. If you already have a wheel into your joystick midi port, it's easy as 1-2-3. If your using a joystick in your USB port, you can always buy a cheap 5$ joystick/gamepad and plug the CH pedals as "Joystick 2" in your gameport. -- -- Fran�ois M�nard <ymenard> -- May the Downforce be with you... -- http://www.ymenard.com/ -- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

On Sun, 21 Jan 2001 19:49:17 GMT, "ymenard" <[email hidden]> wrote: >>"Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote >> Thanks. How about the brake pedal strength? > >Both pedals are of the same. Since the travel is quite high, you can >modulate both pedals easily and at great range. Whatr I am most bothered about is that I want the pedal to 'push back' when I brake - so that I can put pressure on it to modulate it. Is this how it is with the CH pedals? Or is it a case of having to put something behind the pedals to recreate the sense of pushing against something. I have a real problem with braking in GPL, that is the major area I am losing out in. I guess what I am saying is - will I need to mod the pedals for GPL?

> Whatr I am most bothered about is that I want the pedal to 'push back' > when I brake - so that I can put pressure on it to modulate it. Is > this how it is with the CH pedals? No, pedals almost have no resistance, and you will have to put something behind to give you resistance. But a lot of people including me end up not doing that because they are so precise, you basicaly don't need it. But it is a matter of personal preferance. > > Or is it a case of having to put something behind the pedals to > recreate the sense of pushing against something. Yup! > I have a real problem with braking in GPL, that is the major area I am > losing out in. I guess what I am saying is - will I need to mod the >pedals for GPL? Yes you might need to. But first allow your self A LOT of time getting used, because pedals are not push dow, they are swivel action, unlike cars. Takes a lot of getting used too, but once you do, you can be even more precise. I wes VERY frustrated at first. took me about a month to get used to them! Se beware and DON'T give up. It's a great solution (but it will not make you faster than Gregger:) Domi

On Sun, 21 Jan 2001 21:28:01 +0100, "Domagoj Malovic" <[email hidden]> wrote: >No, pedals almost have no resistance, and you will have to put something >behind to give you resistance. But a lot of people including me end up not >doing that because they are so precise, you basicaly don't need it. But it >is a matter of personal preferance. Oh. :( This actually puts me off a bit - my current braking technique is flawed because I am basically pumping the brakes (ie; just pushing until the point of lock and then releasing) which is just no good. I feel that I need pedals that I can put pressure on to brake precisely - like a car - and then ease off them a little before they lock. I might be able to brake AND turn in then! Maybe a piece of foam behind the pedal? Damn! Does NOONE make some pedals that behave like the real thing!!??? :P

"Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote > Maybe a piece of foam behind the pedal? Damn! Does NOONE make some > pedals that behave like the real thing!!??? :P Several people in this NG have put a squash ball behind the brake pedal. Check out dejanews.com, you'll find some info there. Still, I don't see why it's necessary. It's not because it's like that in reality that it's an advantage. I find that I have much more performance on track when I have no resistance in the pedals. Considering that you have a heel support and a pivot action, you can easily control your pedal input and stay anywhere between 0 and 100% without any effort. -- -- Fran�ois M�nard <ymenard> -- May the Downforce be with you... -- http://www.ymenard.com/ -- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

"Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> On Sun, 21 Jan 2001 14:03:07 -0500, "Luis Soto" <[email hidden]> > wrote: > > >I've used mine (non-pro) for years. They are the absolute best in my > >opinion. > >I recently re-wired them for my LWFF wheel. Wouldn't want to drive with > >anything else. > >L.S. > > Thanks. How about the brake pedal strength? > > And you had to rewire them?? Can't you run them straight into the back > of the PC? >

Ditto the above response...my CH pedals have outlasted 3 wheels. I mounted a wedge shaped block of wood behind the brake pedal and stuck a short coil spring between the wood and the pedal base to increase the pedal resistance a bit. You *can* run the pedals straight into your game port if your wheel is in your USB port, but this will only work in games that support 2 controllers. It's best to rewire the pedals. -- don GPL Programs for the Converted Tracks: http://www.ianparker.co.uk/gpl/bapom/

> >You *can* run the pedals straight into your game port if your wheel is in >your USB port, but this will only work in games that support 2 controllers. >It's best to rewire the pedals. Thanks for the info Don, That sounds a bit complicated. I wouldn't have the first idea how to achieve that with my Act Labs RS Wheel.

"Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > > > >You *can* run the pedals straight into your game port if your wheel is in > >your USB port, but this will only work in games that support 2controllers. > >It's best to rewire the pedals. > > Thanks for the info Don, > > That sounds a bit complicated. I wouldn't have the first idea how to > achieve that with my Act Labs RS Wheel. It's really just a simple matter of pulling the connectors off of the act-labs pedal pots and attaching them to the CH pedal pots. Just make a diagram of where the wires go before pulling anything apart. Check out Alison's GPL site for a How To on this subject in the section titled, Help/Controllers/Readers Reports. It's in Steve Blankenship's report on the Logitech Wingman under "Mods". This info should apply to your pedals as well. http://alison.simracing.com/gpl/ -- don GPL Programs for the Converted Tracks: http://www.ianparker.co.uk/gpl/bapom/

On Sun, 21 Jan 2001 21:43:52 GMT, "ymenard" <[email hidden]> wrote: >Still, I don't see why it's necessary. It's not because it's like that in >reality that it's an advantage. I find that I have much more performance on >track when I have no resistance in the pedals. Considering that you have a >heel support and a pivot action, you can easily control your pedal input and >stay anywhere between 0 and 100% without any effort. I use a squashball Ymenard. It gives me a more stable braking, it's easier to notice how far the pedal is pressed with some resistance behind the pedal.. Though I agree, it's not necessary. Sometimes during a race the sqashball gets loose and often I only notice this after the race :) Andre

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> >-- >-- Fran�ois M�nard <ymenard> >-- May the Downforce be with you... >-- http://www.ymenard.com/ >-- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how >hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world. > > >

We'll I've ordered them and they will arrive here tomorrow! I' expect all be straight back on here to moaning about how I can't get theme to work! :) Watch this space...........

I increased the resistance of the throttle pedal by rearranging the spring inside. Did this by stretching it to a support a bit further away; it requires a bit of 'plastic cutting', but as that is my main hobby (creating scale models of race cars and planes) it didn't take much time. And as I couldn't get used to the standard pivot action of the pedals I rotated them 180 degrees and mounted them vertically on a specially made support (like in my real-life car). Then I rewired the pedals on my LWFF using the info on Alison Hine's web pages (thanks Alison! But in this case remember to change the brake lines for the throttle lines and vice versa!). For me it's a lot better now, but I'm still looking for a way of increasing the resistance: I'm always locking brakes, and that's where I'm losing most of the time... On the original LWFF pedals I used a the plastic 'cap' of a badminton shuttle, but that doesn't work here. Still thinking... Regards, Bert "Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > We'll I've ordered them and they will arrive here tomorrow! I' expect > all be straight back on here to moaning about how I can't get theme to > work! :) > > Watch this space...........

On Mon, 22 Jan 2001 20:02:57 -0800, "Bert Hilberink" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>I increased the resistance of the throttle pedal by rearranging the spring >inside. Did this by stretching it to a support a bit further away; it >requires a bit of 'plastic cutting', but as that is my main hobby (creating >scale models of race cars and planes) it didn't take much time. > >And as I couldn't get used to the standard pivot action of the pedals I >rotated them 180 degrees and mounted them vertically on a specially made

I don't get this part - you turned the pedals upside-down? Or do you mean you turned the pedals 90 degrees? >On the original LWFF pedals I used a the plastic 'cap' of a badminton >shuttle, but that doesn't work here. Still thinking... Did you try the squashball solution? Works nice here.. Andre

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>Regards, > >Bert > >"Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote in message >news:[email hidden]... >> We'll I've ordered them and they will arrive here tomorrow! I' expect >> all be straight back on here to moaning about how I can't get theme to >> work! :) >> >> Watch this space........... > >

"Andre Warringa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > On Mon, 22 Jan 2001 20:02:57 -0800, "Bert Hilberink" > <[email hidden]> wrote: > > >I increased the resistance of the throttle pedal by rearranging thespring > >inside. Did this by stretching it to a support a bit further away; it > >requires a bit of 'plastic cutting', but as that is my main hobby(creating

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> >scale models of race cars and planes) it didn't take much time. > > > >And as I couldn't get used to the standard pivot action of the pedals I > >rotated them 180 degrees and mounted them vertically on a specially made > > I don't get this part - you turned the pedals upside-down? Or do you > mean you turned the pedals 90 degrees?

Actually neither...:-))). I turned them 180 degrees around the vertical axis and then mounted them vertically (CHPedals logo can be seen upside down on top). I'm not sure this is a better description... > > >On the original LWFF pedals I used a the plastic 'cap' of a badminton > >shuttle, but that doesn't work here. Still thinking... > > Did you try the squashball solution? Works nice here.. Couldn't get a squash ball in the original LWFF, and the plastic 'caps' worked very nicely. Don't see how I could use a squash ball on the CH Pedals; fitting it inside a pedal doesn't help, and where/how would I put them outside? Under the pedal, close to the pivoting point? Bert

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> > Andre > > >Regards, > > > >Bert > > > >"Matt Phelps" <matthew.phelps@*spamtrap*.com> wrote in message > >news:[email hidden]... > >> We'll I've ordered them and they will arrive here tomorrow! I' expect > >> all be straight back on here to moaning about how I can't get theme to > >> work! :) > >> > >> Watch this space........... > > > > >

How is this done. What device do you select or is it custom? Do you connect the pedals alone to the game port, or is there a joystick of some type with it? I am using a Logitech Wingman Forumla (non FF) connected to USB. If I connect my CH Pedals alone to my game port and select it, it is reported as not connected. Only the USB shows "OK". I would prefer this option over the rewiring option. > >You *can* run the pedals straight into your game port if your wheel is in >your USB port, but this will only work in games that support 2 controllers. >It's best to rewire the pedals.

> How is this done. What device do you select or is it custom? Do you > connect the pedals alone to the game port, or is there a joystick of > some type with it? I am using a Logitech Wingman Forumla (non FF) > connected to USB. If I connect my CH Pedals alone to my game port and > select it, it is reported as not connected. Only the USB shows "OK". > I would prefer this option over the rewiring option. I had to plug an old joystick to the pedals to get them recognised. Then I created a custom, 4-axis, 2-button controller. WOrks like a charm Hena