wheel and pedals for GPL/N4

The current wheel and pedals I am using is: EXL 500 (CHProducts) I like this wheel and pedals because I find it easy to use and somewhat compact, however this setup isn't compatible with N4 and GPL. This setup works with N3. I am willing to buy a new wheel and pedals and am looking for suggestions. $50.00 - $110.00. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Michael

Check Ebay for the LWFF get them from justdeals for about 40 something and then get the usb adaptor from logitech for 1$ thats about all they sell for that wheel tho :( Rd "Michael" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:XFwl6.9$[email hidden]...

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> The current wheel and pedals I am using is: EXL 500 (CHProducts) > > I like this wheel and pedals because I find it easy to use and somewhat > compact, however this setup isn't compatible with N4 and GPL. This setup > works with N3. > > I am willing to buy a new wheel and pedals and am looking for suggestions. > $50.00 - $110.00. > > Any suggestions are welcome. > > Thanks, > Michael > >

>"Michael" <[email hidden]> wrote > The current wheel and pedals I am using is: EXL 500 (CHProducts) > > I like this wheel and pedals because I find it easy to use and somewhat > compact, however this setup isn't compatible with N4 and GPL. I'm sorry but this set is 100% compatible with N4 and GPL, unless your talking about the pedals who do not support dual axis. If so, you should buy a pair of CH pedals (from CH Products). They are great and it will create imho the best plastic non FF wheel on the market, by far. You'll even be able to use the original pedals as additionall axis (hint : clutch) ;-) -- -- Fran�ois M�nard <ymenard> -- May the Downforce be with you... -- http://www.ymenard.com/ -- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

>I'm sorry but this set is 100% compatible with N4 and GPL, unless your >talking about the pedals who do not support dual axis. If so, you should >buy a pair of CH pedals (from CH Products). They are great and it will >create imho the best plastic non FF wheel on the market, by far. You'll >even be able to use the original pedals as additionall axis (hint : clutch) I'm not sorry, I haven't purchased N4 or GPL and won't. Today I went and purchased another wheel which doesn't read properly either. Sure they are read by the game but they aren't read properly. Turning the wheel 5 degrees (actually) = the wheel turning 12 degrees (in the game) , obviously you don't take your sim driving seriously and didn't notice that. This occurs in both GPL and N4, yet not in N3. You're playing a game that doesn't read wheels properly and didn't realize it and you're just dealing with it, I won't spend 50 bucks to deal with something. Sorry but you're not playing realistically. Remember, compatible and correct are two entirely different things.

>"Michael" <[email hidden]> wrote > I'm not sorry, I haven't purchased N4 or GPL and won't. Uh? In your first message you write that your wheel setup is not compatible with N4 and GPL, then you write that you haven't purchased them? Doesn't make sense. I'm sorry but there shouldn't be ANY kind of problem with GPL and N4 for wheels, in fact the calibration routines is probably one of the best in the simracing market. -- -- Fran�ois M�nard <ymenard> -- May the Downforce be with you... -- http://www.ymenard.com/ -- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

ymenard wrote in message ...

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>>"Michael" <[email hidden]> wrote >> I'm not sorry, I haven't purchased N4 or GPL and won't. > > >Uh? In your first message you write that your wheel setup is not compatible >with N4 and GPL, then you write that you haven't purchased them? Doesn't >make sense.

You purchase before testing the game huh? You were talking about what doesn't make sense? No wonder the manufacturers keep spewing out crap. Hell, I think I'll go design a game and claim it to be the best game yet, even if it isn't you and others like you will buy it. Obviously you did with the games you own. >I'm sorry but there shouldn't be ANY kind of problem with GPL and N4 for >wheels, in fact the calibration routines is probably one of the best in the >simracing market. You obviuosly don't take your racing seriously, a blind man can see the difference.

Well of course it doesn't happen in N3, there's no on screen wheel to measure against. There's still nothing wrong with the way GPL and N4 read the controller's input, though the on-screen wheel may not always match up 1:1 with your device depending on your linearity setting as well as the ammount of physical lock to lock travel in your wheel. -- Eric "Michael" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:q2Yl6.3249$[email hidden]... > I'm not sorry, I haven't purchased N4 or GPL and won't. Today I went and > purchased another wheel which doesn't read properly either. Sure they are > read by the game but they aren't read properly. Turning the wheel 5 degrees > (actually) = the wheel turning 12 degrees (in the game) , obviously you > don't take your sim driving seriously and didn't notice that. This occurs in > both GPL and N4, yet not in N3. You're playing a game that doesn't read > wheels properly and didn't realize it and you're just dealing with it, I > won't spend 50 bucks to deal with something. Sorry but you're not playing > realistically.

>"Michael" <[email hidden]> wrote > You purchase before testing the game huh? You were talking about what > doesn't make sense? Uh? I think we have a communication problem here <G> ;) You said you are not able to make your wheel work in N4, of course without telling us what wheel it is, or in what your problem really is. I of course state that N4 and GPL recognise most of the wheels and it's very easy to calibrate and choose your controllers. Then you say "I have not bought N4 or GPL" then ramble upon some babbling about manufacturers and stuff like that. You even whine about the fact that your wheel doesn't turn as much as on screen. Well DUH that's quite normal, there is a big difference between how your potentiometer has maximum range (normally 180 or 270degrees) and how a real-life Winston Cup wheel (which doesn't have any kind of mechinical --> electrical function) acts, as it has almost two full turns of the wheel iirc. There is still many settings you can change, but don't expect an equal ratio at the end. I don't really know ANY wheel on the market (because mostly of the potentiometer situation) that has enough range as a real WC wheel. It's NOT the game's fault, it's not the wheel's fault, it's just the way it is. Do you want us to help you or not? > You obviuosly don't take your racing seriously, a blind man can see the > difference. LMAO who do you think you are, tough newbie? -- -- Fran�ois M�nard <ymenard> -- May the Downforce be with you... -- http://www.ymenard.com/ -- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

ymenard wrote in message ... >>"Michael" <[email hidden]> wrote >> You purchase before testing the game huh? You were talking about what >> doesn't make sense? > > >Uh? I think we have a communication problem here <G> ;) Many people understood my problem and gave me very suitable solutions. I do notice below, that you addressed my situation, ah, you do understand. As you mention, it's just the way it is, unless I can find a wheel with a realistic turning radius. I know, good luck, but I'm gonna go looking anyway. >You said you are not able to make your wheel work in N4, of course without >telling us what wheel it is, or in what your problem really is. I ofcourse >state that N4 and GPL recognise most of the wheels and it's very easy to >calibrate and choose your controllers. > >Then you say "I have not bought N4 or GPL" then ramble upon some babbling >about manufacturers and stuff like that. You even whine about the factthat >your wheel doesn't turn as much as on screen. > Well DUH that's quite normal, >there is a big difference between how your potentiometer has maximum range >(normally 180 or 270degrees) and how a real-life Winston Cup wheel (which >doesn't have any kind of mechinical --> electrical function) acts, as ithas >almost two full turns of the wheel iirc. I really didn't think that WC wheels turned that much, obviously i was wrong. Someone suggested that a need something other than a "cheapo" wheel. I think they're correct. How one can drive these games when barely touching the wheel turns the car 30% degrees is beyond me. With as much difference as there is I can drive almost any road course without moving the wheel any more than 15 degrees to either side, that's not realistic, nor fun. At high speeds it is nearly physically impossible to turn the wheel more than 15 degrees, go get in your car and try it (kidding of course), yet in the game, turning the wheel 30 at high speeds is quite possible. > There is still many settings you >can change, but don't expect an equal ratio at the end. I don't reallyknow >ANY wheel on the market (because mostly of the potentiometer situation)that

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>has enough range as a real WC wheel. It's NOT the game's fault, it's not >the wheel's fault, it's just the way it is. > > >Do you want us to help you or not? > > > >> You obviuosly don't take your racing seriously, a blind man can see the >> difference. > >LMAO who do you think you are, tough newbie? > > > > >-- >-- Fran�ois M�nard <ymenard> >-- May the Downforce be with you... >-- http://www.ymenard.com/ >-- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how >hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world. > > >

Mr. Niceguy when you want something eh? These fellas will tear you apart dude. You should watch you step. Michael wrote:

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> > The current wheel and pedals I am using is: EXL 500 (CHProducts) > > I like this wheel and pedals because I find it easy to use and somewhat > compact, however this setup isn't compatible with N4 and GPL. This setup > works with N3. > > I am willing to buy a new wheel and pedals and am looking for suggestions. > $50.00 - $110.00. > > Any suggestions are welcome. > > Thanks, > Michael

I got an idea, why don't you tear me apart first. Nice people don't "tear people apart", obviously you have experience in being torn apart as evidently you are the NG expert on it, as you have just spoken about the entire NG, I'm sure they appreciated that. Your comments belong in the Nascar NG, go away and pester people there. This is sim racing and this is the second post I've found from you, neither one of which address sim racing. You will get bashed for posting nonrelevant issues, this seems to apply to all NG's I've noticed. Looks like you need to watch your step, clean off your shoe now. Tony wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

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>Mr. Niceguy when you want something eh? >These fellas will tear you apart dude. You should watch you step. > >Michael wrote: >> >> The current wheel and pedals I am using is: EXL 500 (CHProducts) >> >> I like this wheel and pedals because I find it easy to use and somewhat >> compact, however this setup isn't compatible with N4 and GPL. This setup >> works with N3. >> >> I am willing to buy a new wheel and pedals and am looking for

suggestions. >> $50.00 - $110.00. >> >> Any suggestions are welcome. >> >> Thanks, >> Michael

>"Michael" <[email hidden]> wrote in > As you mention, it's just the way it is, unless I can find a wheel with a > realistic turning radius. I know, good luck, but I'm gonna go looking > anyway. Yes sorry for not understanding fully your point at first. Good luck in that research, seriously! You'll need to address the problem that we use mechanical to electronic inputs, while real-life Stockcars drivers use direct shafts. Potentiometers that go more then 270 and have the correct K's are quite hard to find I know of some multi-turn types of pots, but they are very pricey and normally don't come individually. You would also need a suitable wheel setup, as most of the current wheels on the market would have difficulty in fitting the pot. A complete redesign (I would suggest starting from scratch). Like I said, it's a compromise that we accept, that the game developpers and wheel manufacturers accept as a reality also. > I really didn't think that WC wheels turned that much, obviously i was > wrong. Someone suggested that a need something other than a "cheapo"wheel. > I think they're correct. How one can drive these games when barelytouching > the wheel turns the car 30% degrees is beyond me. It's all in style, imho. As a road course driver principally, I was teached to never turn the wheel more the 90degree each side, as you would cross your arms and put you in a dangerous safety situation. So small and precise inputs are how I drive, not the long and smooth turnings that Winston Cup drivers do on ovals. If you ever saw me back on the NROS when I was racing talladega, I barely turned the wheel more then 15degrees as my wheel lock was minimal anyway. > With as much difference as > there is I can drive almost any road course without moving the wheel any > more than 15 degrees to either side, that's not realistic, nor fun. Athigh > speeds it is nearly physically impossible to turn the wheel more than 15 > degrees, go get in your car and try it (kidding of course), yet in thegame, > turning the wheel 30 at high speeds is quite possible. Force Feedback would help you then. -- -- Fran�ois M�nard <ymenard> -- May the Downforce be with you... -- http://www.ymenard.com/ -- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.