N4 - Slow Speed

Guys, When racing at Daytona I can only clock about a 172 mph lap. The AI cars get 190's and I can't see what I'm doing wrong. I've downloaded lots of setup's with pretty much the same results. I know Daytona runs restrictor plates but shouldn't that also limit the AI cars ? It's driving me nuts!!! Thanks for any help Ares

Sounds pretty slow. You sure you have all driving aids off? What kind of speed are you seeing down the end of the straights and the middle of the turns without the draft? Also might try recalibrating your wheel and pedals as well. -- Don Burnette D Burnette in N4 Some people do nothing wrong. The problem is, they do nothing. And THAT is wrong. "Ares" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:VanJ6.1788$[email hidden]... > Guys, > > When racing at Daytona I can only clock about a 172 mph lap. > The AI cars get 190's and I can't see what I'm doing wrong. > I've downloaded lots of setup's with pretty much the same results. > > I know Daytona runs restrictor plates but shouldn't that also limit the AI > cars ? > > It's driving me nuts!!! > > Thanks for any help > Ares > >

Don, All aids are off. I'm getting about 174 mph at the end of the straights, 170 mph in the turns. The car is very easy to drive in the turns because I'm not entering them with enough speed. There isn't a hint of tyre squeel as well. As an example I'm getting 187's at Atlanta so I'm not that far off the fast guys. I've recalibrated several times. Thanks Ares "Don Burnette" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:8enJ6.68650$[email hidden]...

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> Sounds pretty slow. You sure you have all driving aids off? What kind of > speed are you seeing down the end of the straights and the middle of the > turns without the draft? > Also might try recalibrating your wheel and pedals as well. > > -- > Don Burnette > D Burnette in N4 > > Some people do nothing wrong. > The problem is, they do nothing. > And THAT is wrong. > > "Ares" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:VanJ6.1788$[email hidden]... > > Guys, > > > > When racing at Daytona I can only clock about a 172 mph lap. > > The AI cars get 190's and I can't see what I'm doing wrong. > > I've downloaded lots of setup's with pretty much the same results. > > > > I know Daytona runs restrictor plates but shouldn't that also limit the

AI

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> > cars ? > > > > It's driving me nuts!!! > > > > Thanks for any help > > Ares > > > > > >

try SHORT-calibrating...put something like a paperback or anything else that will block the pedal reaching to the bottom of it's travel. Then AFTER calibrating, remove the book and your pedal will have it's full travel . But the sim will think your fully depressed. dave henrie "Ares" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:lSnJ6.1789$[email hidden]... > Don, > > All aids are off. > I'm getting about 174 mph at the end of the straights, 170 mph in theturns. > The car is very easy to drive in the turns because I'm not entering them > with enough speed. There isn't a hint of tyre squeel as well. > As an example I'm getting 187's at Atlanta so I'm not that far off thefast

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> guys. > I've recalibrated several times. > > Thanks > Ares > > "Don Burnette" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:8enJ6.68650$[email hidden]... > > Sounds pretty slow. You sure you have all driving aids off? What kind

of

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> > speed are you seeing down the end of the straights and the middle of the > > turns without the draft? > > Also might try recalibrating your wheel and pedals as well. > > > > -- > > Don Burnette > > D Burnette in N4 > > > > Some people do nothing wrong. > > The problem is, they do nothing. > > And THAT is wrong. > > > > "Ares" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:VanJ6.1788$[email hidden]... > > > Guys, > > > > > > When racing at Daytona I can only clock about a 172 mph lap. > > > The AI cars get 190's and I can't see what I'm doing wrong. > > > I've downloaded lots of setup's with pretty much the same results. > > > > > > I know Daytona runs restrictor plates but shouldn't that also limit

the

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> AI > > > cars ? > > > > > > It's driving me nuts!!! > > > > > > Thanks for any help > > > Ares > > > > > > > > > > > >

>try SHORT-calibrating...put something like a paperback or anything else that >will block the pedal reaching to the bottom of it's travel. Then AFTER >calibrating, remove the book and your pedal will have it's full travel . >But the sim will think your fully depressed. >dave henrie Aren't you clever, Dave! -pw

He sure is !!! I tried it and woohoo !!! I actually hit 195 at the end of the straight and 184's in the turns. Best lap is now 190 mph up from 172. Woohoo!!!!! Dave you legend!!! Thanks guys !!! Very grateful Ares "pw" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9d55bu$pr3$[email hidden]... > >try SHORT-calibrating...put something like a paperback or anything elsethat

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> >will block the pedal reaching to the bottom of it's travel. Then AFTER > >calibrating, remove the book and your pedal will have it's full travel . > >But the sim will think your fully depressed. > >dave henrie > > Aren't you clever, Dave! > > -pw

Dave... This is **not** actually a very good solution to those who don't seem to get full throttle (although its better than doing nothing...but only slightly better). There's better solutions and no "error or problems" introduced with them.....as there is with the short calibration method you described (surely, stolen from us TEN drivers who invented that in N2 on TEN....a few years back! ....lol....). The problem of "less than full throttle".....for many is not really from the calibration....but from the DX 8.0 deadzone (default setting to 5% for both steering and throttle/brake). Eliminating the DX deadzone generally solves the problem.....and allows full resolution calibration which allows you to fully modulate the throttle during braking/trail braking/ and throttling up out of the corners on a road course. Most people who short calibrate their throttles.....end up substantially slower on the roads! This is primarily due to increase wheel spin on the turn exits. Additionally, if your "controller" has the capability of customizing the slope and resolution for each axis (as do all Thrustmaster wheels)....then you can accomplish something far better.....with that program. You can also set slope and resolution to get full throttle.....wider throttle resolution....and do the same (but opposite) for the brake....virtually eliminating brake lockups! How many of you guys are having brake lockup problems on the road courses? If you are running Thrustmaster race controllers (the NASCAR Pro Digital-2 wheel being the best of the lot, in my opinion)....you should almost never lock up your brakes on the road courses.....period! Just my "two cents"...... Tom Pabst Pabst-Racing.com

How do you eliminate the DX deadzone? -- Oliver "Tom Pabst" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:BBpJ6.42014$[email hidden]... > Dave... > > This is **not** actually a very good solution to those who don't seem to get > full throttle (although its better than doing nothing...but only slightly > better). There's better solutions and no "error or problems" introduced > with them.....as there is with the short calibration method you described > (surely, stolen from us TEN drivers who invented that in N2 on TEN....a few > years back! ....lol....). > > The problem of "less than full throttle".....for many is not really from the > calibration....but from the DX 8.0 deadzone (default setting to 5% for both > steering and throttle/brake). Eliminating the DX deadzone generally solves > the problem.....and allows full resolution calibration which allows you to > fully modulate the throttle during braking/trail braking/ and throttling up > out of the corners on a road course. Most people who short calibrate their > throttles.....end up substantially slower on the roads! This is primarily > due to increase wheel spin on the turn exits. > > Additionally, if your "controller" has the capability of customizing the > slope and resolution for each axis (as do all Thrustmaster wheels)....then > you can accomplish something far better.....with that program. You can also > set slope and resolution to get full throttle.....wider throttle > resolution....and do the same (but opposite) for the brake....virtually > eliminating brake lockups! How many of you guys are having brake lockup > problems on the road courses? If you are running Thrustmaster race > controllers (the NASCAR Pro Digital-2 wheel being the best of the lot, in my > opinion)....you should almost never lock up your brakes on the road > courses.....period! > > Just my "two cents"...... > > Tom Pabst > Pabst-Racing.com > >

In article <BBpJ6.42014$[email hidden]>, "Tom Pabst" <[email hidden]> writes:

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>Additionally, if your "controller" has the capability of customizing the >slope and resolution for each axis (as do all Thrustmaster wheels)....then >you can accomplish something far better.....with that program. You can also >set slope and resolution to get full throttle.....wider throttle >resolution....and do the same (but opposite) for the brake....virtually >eliminating brake lockups! How many of you guys are having brake lockup >problems on the road courses? If you are running Thrustmaster race >controllers (the NASCAR Pro Digital-2 wheel being the best of the lot, in my >opinion)....you should almost never lock up your brakes on the road >courses.....period!

What about the TSW? Although I mainly drive GPL, I lock up the brakes all the time... It seems to either be lockup, or no brakes, with no in-between. Eldred -- Dale Earnhardt, Sr. R.I.P. 1951-2001 Homepage - http://www.umich.edu/~epickett F1 hcp. +25.37...F2 +151.26... Never argue with an idiot. He brings you down to his level, then beats you with experience... Remove SPAM-OFF to reply.

Slick.....its a program called "DXTweak"....available at hundreds of sim racing utility sites. Tom

Eldred.... Man...sounds like you have a calibration problem with your wheel....or a pot going bad even? I don't know for sure that TSW has a "resolution and slope" calibrating "tweak" program. I am not aware of it....at least. Bug them for one......but maybe it can't be produced for a non-USB controller......?? Which, is another reason to discard your analogue controllers in favor of digital USB. Tom

Make sure you loaded 58+ PSIs Ares <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:VanJ6.1788$[email hidden]...

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> Guys, > > When racing at Daytona I can only clock about a 172 mph lap. > The AI cars get 190's and I can't see what I'm doing wrong. > I've downloaded lots of setup's with pretty much the same results. > > I know Daytona runs restrictor plates but shouldn't that also limit the AI > cars ? > > It's driving me nuts!!! > > Thanks for any help > Ares > >

Thanks Tom.... -- Oliver "Tom Pabst" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:kDFJ6.43025$[email hidden]... > Slick.....its a program called "DXTweak"....available at hundreds of sim > racing utility sites. > > Tom > > >

In article <rFFJ6.43026$[email hidden]>, "Tom Pabst" <[email hidden]> writes:

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>Eldred.... > >Man...sounds like you have a calibration problem with your wheel....or a >pot going bad even? I don't know for sure that TSW has a "resolution and >slope" calibrating "tweak" program. I am not aware of it....at least. Bug >them for one......but maybe it can't be produced for a non-USB >controller......?? Which, is another reason to discard your analogue >controllers in favor of digital USB.

Who knows? I think I *do* need to change the steering pot, and I've already changed the one for the gas. I don't even remember WHEN the brakes started acting like this. Someone who had seen one of my replays brought it to my attention that I was locking up so much. I hadn't noticed.<sigh> Besides, at the time I bought the TSW, I didn't have USB, and was still running win95 anyway. I can't see myself just chucking a $350 wheel now for USB... Eldred -- Dale Earnhardt, Sr. R.I.P. 1951-2001 Homepage - http://www.umich.edu/~epickett F1 hcp. +25.37...F2 +151.26... Never argue with an idiot. He brings you down to his level, then beats you with experience... Remove SPAM-OFF to reply.