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Superbike 2001 Joystick Advice

21 posts by 9 people · 13 Jul 2001 09:05 UTC - 22 Jul 2001 21:51 UTC

Choosing a controller for Superbike 2001

A Superbike 2001 player asked which controller gives good bike control. Suggestions included joysticks with the hat for rider position, wheels calibrated to half travel in Windows, and optical-sensor joysticks that avoid worn potentiometers.

hardware: wheels/pedalsSuperbike 2001

Automated summary.

Paul Jager 13 Jul 2001 09:05 UTC#173673
Really enjoy playing Superbike 2001, but I'm finding it difficult to decide upon a controller that really gives me control of the bike. Tried gamepads, keyboard, wheel, but 'turning' is a real problem, so I thought I might go down the joystick route. As I haven't had one for years (only play car sims, so I use a wheel) before I part with my hard earnt money I thought I'd ask if anyone uses a joystick for this game, and if so how successful it is? Thanks PJ
In article <hOy37.12490$[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says... > Really enjoy playing Superbike 2001, but I'm finding it difficult to decide > upon a controller that really gives me control of the bike. Tried gamepads, > keyboard, wheel, but 'turning' is a real problem, so I thought I might go > down the joystick route. As I haven't had one for years (only play car sims, > so I use a wheel) before I part with my hard earnt money I thought I'd ask > if anyone uses a joystick for this game, and if so how successful it is? I use joystick with my wheel pedals and find it feels relatively natural to me, but many have said how they haven't liked it. Cheers, Rod.
"Paul Jager" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:hOy37.12490$[email hidden]... > Really enjoy playing Superbike 2001, but I'm finding it difficult todecide > upon a controller that really gives me control of the bike. Triedgamepads, > keyboard, wheel, but 'turning' is a real problem, so I thought I might go > down the joystick route. As I haven't had one for years (only play carsims, > so I use a wheel) before I part with my hard earnt money I thought I'd ask > if anyone uses a joystick for this game, and if so how successful it is? I used a MS Sidewinder 3d pro for a while. Played with alternatives like twist to turn rather than j/s. Ended up using the hat to position the rider, forward, back and lean. I had raced a bit before using the wheel and pedals and I found I could NOT get any better times. As the MS j/s was just so much cr*p and would be "not connected" quite often, I stopped using it. Not sure if I'd have stayed with it anyway. In contrast, friends son uses FF j/s and can give a good race. Try-it-and see if the only real advice I can offer. Bad-Boy
I do the same with my Quillemot FF j/s..works nice for me, does it for you? "Bad-Boy" wrote: <snip> | Ended up using the hat to position the rider, forward, back and lean. | Bad-Boy<snip> --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.262 / Virus Database: 132 - Release Date: 6/12/2001
"Thom j." <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:m%G37.2232$[email hidden]... > I do the same with my Quillemot FF j/s..works nice for me, does it foryou? > > "Bad-Boy" wrote: > <snip> > | Ended up using the hat to position the rider, forward, back and lean. I found it really natural and the physics of the GP500 sim were good enough to make a difference. When braking it was real natural to lean back and slow down the weight transfer and keep the back wheel on the deck. Likewise lean before turning in and you could go in much 'hotter'. All great fun - except the MS crud was soooo poor and I've not been motivated to buy another joystick. Bad-Boy
I tried a Joy but its just not right for me, so I short calibrate my TSW2 wheel until the movement of the wheel seems equal to the movement of the steering in the game. In my case it ends up being near a 1/2 calibration in Win. With a wheel it feels like you are hanging off the bike, and you have so much precision in letting up the bike slightly to increase traction while still maintaining a high turn rate.. Course that takes getting the wheel to feel right. Good Luck! Charlie "Bad-Boy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:1RH37.57407$[email hidden]...
Quoted text (10 lines)> "Thom j." <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:m%G37.2232$[email hidden]... > > I do the same with my Quillemot FF j/s..works nice for me, does it for > you? > > > > "Bad-Boy" wrote: > > <snip> > > | Ended up using the hat to position the rider, forward, back and lean. > > I found it really natural and the physics of the GP500 sim were good
enough
Quoted text (11 lines)> to make a difference. > When braking it was real natural to lean back and slow down the weight > transfer and keep the back wheel on the deck. > Likewise lean before turning in and you could go in much 'hotter'. > All great fun - except the MS crud was soooo poor and I've not been > motivated to buy another joystick. > > Bad-Boy > > >
I have used Wheels w/pedals or paddles very successfully in MC Sims, oops "Games". CHS, AMA-SB, SBK, SB2000, although the wheel pot doe's take a beating with all the severe lock to lock steering, so expect to replace the steering pot like I did every month or so. Also the bungee is pretty limp by then too, (I like a stiff wheel). Buttons used for shifting tend to wear out from all the severe shifting but should last a little over a year (I race MC/Car Sims every other day) before needing replacement. The downshift button is always the first to go. I am currently using a Logitech Wingman Attack Joystick in SB2001 with running laps of 2.02xx at Hockinhiem. The only assist that I use is throttle help, about ready to try a wean myself of that, but with the slider for throttle/brake I don't know if that can be done, (allot of power in the rear wheel may need the use of combined foot pedals to control it). I just use the joystick for left-right steering with fire buttons for shifting and the aux buttons for rider up/down movement. So far I think that the Joystick is allot less to maintain, but I am starting to wonder about the condition of the pots, (the never-ending jerky/jumpy wheel in GPL/N4 is starting to rear its ugly head again). IMO the Wheel/paddle combination is the best way to go, because with the paddles on combined axis power/braking can be controlled more precisely and I find that it adds stability to the lean angle to get that "just right line". Try to do mid 19 second laps in the Motegi Oval in a full length race with a full field in Castrol Honda SuperBike,,,,,,,,,he he
"Charlie Buscher" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:Gl047.3392$[email hidden]... > I tried a Joy but its just not right for me, so I short calibrate my > TSW2 wheel until the movement of the wheel seems equal to the movement of > the steering in the game. Thanks Charlie, never thought to try this. Good idea. I'm off to play :-) Bad-Boy
In article <Gl047.3392$[email hidden]>, "Charlie Buscher" <[email hidden]> writes:
Quoted text (7 lines)> I tried a Joy but its just not right for me, so I short calibrate my >TSW2 wheel until the movement of the wheel seems equal to the movement of >the steering in the game. In my case it ends up being near a 1/2 calibration >in Win. With a wheel it feels like you are hanging off the bike, and you >have so much precision in letting up the bike slightly to increase traction >while still maintaining a high turn rate.. Course that takes getting the >wheel to feel right.
So was I correct in that there's no calibration routine in the game itself? I can't understand why there isn't... :( Eldred -- Dale Earnhardt, Sr. R.I.P. 1951-2001 Homepage - http://www.umich.edu/~epickett F1 hcp. +16.36...Monster +366.59... Never argue with an idiot. He brings you down to his level, then beats you with experience... Remove SPAM-OFF to reply.
I use to have the TSW2 wheel.. Dont you have a really huge turning radius with that thing? I did and I had the momo wheel on it too!! Only curious.. "Charlie Buscher" wrote: | I tried a Joy but its just not right for me, so I short calibrate my | TSW2 wheel until the movement of the wheel seems equal to the movement of | the steering in the game. In my case it ends up being near a 1/2calibration | in Win. With a wheel it feels like you are hanging off the bike, and you | have so much precision in letting up the bike slightly to increasetraction | while still maintaining a high turn rate.. Course that takes getting the | wheel to feel right. | | Good Luck! --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.262 / Virus Database: 132 - Release Date: 6/12/2001
Red, Do you have the hock setup? I get 1:57-1:58s out of it!! "O" no aids tho... "REDLINE426" wrote: <snip> | I am currently using a Logitech Wingman Attack Joystick in SB2001 with | running laps of 2.02xx at Hockinhiem. The only assist that I use isthrottle | help, about ready to try a wean myself of that, but with the slider for | throttle/brake I don't know if that can be done, (allot of power in therear | wheel may need the use of combined foot pedals to control it). I just use | the joystick for left-right steering with fire buttons for shifting andthe | aux buttons for rider up/down movement.<snip again> --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.262 / Virus Database: 132 - Release Date: 6/12/2001
On Sat, 14 Jul 2001 14:43:48 -0400, "REDLINE426" <[email hidden]> wrote: >So far I think that the Joystick is allot less to maintain, but I am >starting to wonder about the condition of the pots, Get a MS precision Pro joystick. They use optical sensors so there are no pots to wear out.
and.. if you 1/2 calibrate in win you dont have to thrash your wheel. I dont play SBK01 much but pots last about year in my TSW2. Charlie "Bill and Ben, the flower pot men." <bill&[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted text (9 lines)> On Sat, 14 Jul 2001 14:43:48 -0400, "REDLINE426" > <[email hidden]> wrote: > > > >So far I think that the Joystick is allot less to maintain, but I am > >starting to wonder about the condition of the pots, > > Get a MS precision Pro joystick. They use optical sensors so there are > no pots to wear out.
Hi Thom, "The Hock Setup"? Is that a setup off the net or the default setup? My opinion/luck with net setups mostly (GPL-N4) is pretty much machine/controller specific which means that I believe that one setup done on a computer with xx brand/speed cpu and xx brand video card/controller is not going to behave on the same on all types of computers. I think that frame rate and controller type/condition has a lot to do with a setup. Just take for an example, how many racers can obtain the same "Hotlap Personal Best" lap times with the setups that are used to obtain these "World Record Laps"? I'm just starting to get back into SB2001, and most of my laps are practice laps, (tried it last year, but the control was just fubar, now with DX 8.1b it seems a lot more controllable. Maybe has something to do with 320 bug fixes in Direct X?). Do to a recent move into an apartment, most of my computer equipment is in the moving/storage limbo. Mainly all 3 of my Thrustmaster wheels are in storage, it's just as well because I lack the workshop/workbench to maintain a wheel, thus the use of the $14.99 Logitech Joystick. Ahhhh brings me back to Nascar 1 days, he he. 1:57-1:58's is pretty good ! I lose a lot of my time in the esses before the last turn. Just can't keep a steady lean and accelerate enough at the same time. The 2:02's that I've turned are with the Honda, with a little gearing change, lower in the low gears-higher in 6th gear, (197mph @ end of front straight, 190@ back straight before chicane). A little stiffening of the suspension/ dampening, medium tires. Rake/Trail adjusted to make the joystick workable. I can turn more consistent laps with the default setup, but I'm just about able to keep the front runners in sight. With my setup I have a chance of maybe passing them at the end of the straights and being faster through the chicanes. But alas the esses do me in. LOL I shied away from the EA SuperBike games (because of all the bad posts in High Gear about bugs & a lousy demo) and mainly concentrated on AMA SuperBike during that fiasco. AMA SB was fun; won allot of races, sure did suck to not make it to the podium and get the "Better Luck Next Time" Comment. I did spend quite a bit of time with the original SBK in arcade mode, (came back to it). I think I smoked the CPU bikes on just about all the tracks, and I found Assen to be the most fun/favorite track. SB2000 was fun at first but when the EAX/A3D sound bug/lockup appeared, I'd just go back to AMA SB. I was surprised to see some recent posts in High Gear about SB2001. The forum I guess went dead about the time GP500 came out, (most all the posts were about EA fix this thing/give us a patch theme anyway). Too bad I haven't seen GP500 in the store shelves, (USA) because it would be in the bargain bin by now. From the GP500 screenshots that I've seen, maybe it's comprised of the same game engine as AMA SB. The tire wear indicator gave me that thought. Then again I have my "Conspiracy Theory" on why CHS2000 was never available in the USA........ but that's for another thread. LOL Anyway "Happy Biking" and "Keep the Chrome Side Up an the Rubber Side Down" R.I.P. - William Joseph Dunlop OBE MBE 2/25/52 - 7/2/2000 "Yer Maun"
"The Flower Pot Men" LOL Where Ya been haven't seen/heard for ya since the 70's or was that Ying & Yang? "Optical sensors" probably means digital/USB, and I still need the compatibility of an analog controller, (older games). Someday I'll find my "Round Tooit" and get a collection of "Plastic Conductive" Mil spec pots to lessen the wear an tear.
Hi Charlie "1/2 calibrate in win" is that like move the wheel 1/2 way in the calibration window? I don't mind "Trashing the Wheel" (I glue my pedals to the floor, and screw the wheel to the computer table) it's about all the exercise this fat computer slob gets. Just wish the wheels would stand up. Now Now don't all you GPL Gods get riled up, this is in SuperBike Racing, even the buttons take a beating. When you have to do 5 downshifts from 180+ mph in a matter of 2 seconds approaching a chicane, and your full on the brakes, rider going into the up position. If Ya miss a downshift Ya might just "Highside". Ya tend to lose the finesse you try to strive for in GPL. SuperBikes are a violent thing to handle. If I ever get my hands on a lathe and milling machine I'll be building my own Wheel. Plate Steel and ball bearings, Yup that's for me. R.I.P. - William Joseph Dunlop OBE MBE 2/25/52 - 7/2/2000 "Yer Maun"
Yes I turn my wheel 1/2 as much (or less) than full lock in win calibration before racing sbk01. C "REDLINE426" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:iQs47.113165$[email hidden]...
Quoted text (12 lines)> "The Flower Pot Men" LOL Where Ya been haven't seen/heard for ya since the > 70's or was that Ying & Yang? > > "Optical sensors" probably means digital/USB, and I still need the > compatibility of an analog controller, (older games). > > Someday I'll find my "Round Tooit" and get a collection of "Plastic > Conductive" Mil spec pots to lessen the wear an tear. > > > >
REDLINE426 <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > you GPL Gods get riled up, this is in SuperBike Racing, even thebuttons > take a beating. When you have to do 5 downshifts from 180+ mph in amatter > of 2 seconds approaching a chicane, and your full on the brakes,rider going > into the up position. If Ya miss a downshift Ya might just"Highside". Ya Depending on the exact way the sim handles it, autofire is occasionally useful! My wheel has two, programmable buttons under each thumb: the top ones are upshift and downshift; the bottom ones are the same but with autofire enabled. It's mostly useful for GPL when I spin in 5th and want 1st or reverse, but in the ICR2 demo I can just lean on the button at the end of the straight and let it 'row' down the gears for me. Jonny
Jonny this "autofire" is new to me. Can it be used on any j/s? If so how do you set it up in SBK2001 & GPL? Tia Thom_j. Btw: I have the Guillemot FFB j/s "Jonny Hodgson" wrote:
Quoted text (8 lines)| Depending on the exact way the sim handles it, autofire is | occasionally useful! My wheel has two, programmable buttons under | each thumb: the top ones are upshift and downshift; the bottom ones | are the same but with autofire enabled. It's mostly useful for GPL | when I spin in 5th and want 1st or reverse, but in the ICR2 demo I can | just lean on the button at the end of the straight and let it 'row' | down the gears for me. | Jonny
--- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.264 / Virus Database: 136 - Release Date: 7/2/2001
Thom j. <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:iTF67.16639$[email hidden]... > Jonny this "autofire" is new to me. Can it be used on any j/s? It's pretty standard on most joysticks - but probably not, since it's in hardware (along with variable travel, which is pretty sweet) on my Interact V3. Sorry! Jonny
Well I use a Guillemot FFB j/s.. Maybe I could program it and dont even know it? haha. I have a rudder type wheel, a throttle wheel, 12buttons and 8position high hat. hmm? I better check my manual again. <g> "Jonny Hodgson" wrote:
Quoted text (11 lines)| It's pretty standard on most joysticks - but probably not, since it's | in hardware (along with variable travel, which is pretty sweet) on my | Interact V3. | | Sorry! | | Jonny | Thom j. wrote: | > Jonny this "autofire" is new to me. Can it be used on any j/s? |
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