Logitech MOMO FF wheel - Quick review

Well I ordered it yesterday from http://www.cc-inc.com/pcmall/ for $173.00 US and it arrived this am, not bad for 2nd day air. It is not brown but Red - pedals looks great and feel great - wheel is nice wrapped leather and looks like the old red LWFF (a lot lighter though) Well I own the following wheels: (1) Act Labs Force RS - and Shifter (Awaiting new perf clutch pedals this week they ship supposedly) (2) MSFF Wheel (3) Two original Red LWFF wheels - thinking about doing the JS schumi Ball bearing upgrade to one of them. (4) CH Pedals Quick opinion on the MOMO wheel: (I can post some pics this weekend on a page) (i) Pedals are a huge improvement over the earlier models (the head of the pedals pivot on the shafts and the resistance is a nice balance I feel) - THe metal plate under the feet is a great touch. (ii) Wheel - Momo wheel looks great - leather wrapped black is great - I prefer the shapre of the wheel over the Act Labs Wheel. (iii) Motor system in the wheel - well not pulled apart yet but it is A LOT lighter than the original LWFF however it is real smooth and I think gears not cables. All I have done so far is setup and install - no probs at all since I am running 4.1 of Logi profiler. Games ran so far : (30 mins each) F1 2000 - great feel - no ff back - game prob though - This wheel is great for this game - better than the Act Labs as the wheel is not so notchy. Nascar 4 - FF are spot on - pedals are very accurate and wheel is precise So far I am glad I purchased it - keep an eye out for it. If it was $149.00 it would be a great deal. Brad

Thanks for the info. Can you tell me if the pedals have any more travel than the original LWFF pedals? "Braddo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3bcf7448$[email hidden]... > Well I ordered it yesterday from http://www.cc-inc.com/pcmall/ for $173.00 > US > > <snip momo wheel review> > > So far I am glad I purchased it - keep an eye out for it. If it was$149.00 > it would be a great deal. > > Brad

how about lock to lock angles any improvement there ??? Simon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:nQKz7.3715$[email hidden]... > Thanks for the info. Can you tell me if the pedalshave any more travel > than the original LWFF pedals? > > "Braddo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:3bcf7448$[email hidden]... > > Well I ordered it yesterday fromhttp://www.cc-inc.com/pcmall/ for $173.00 > > US > > > > <snip momo wheel review> > > > > So far I am glad I purchased it - keep an eye outfor it. If it was

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> $149.00 > > it would be a great deal. > > > > Brad > > >

how about lock to lock angles any improvement there ??? message have any more travel > than the original LWFF pedals? > > Well I ordered it yesterday from http://www.cc-inc.com/pcmall/ for $173.00

Yes they have a lot more - I feel so anyway. They are far superior to the Act Lab Force RS pedals. I find the resistance of the new pedals impressive as well. Just played about 7 of the Nascar Heat mods and had a blast, especially the GT40. GPL is now loading up............ late night ahead "Simon Brown" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:nQKz7.3715$[email hidden]... > Thanks for the info. Can you tell me if the pedals have any more travel > than the original LWFF pedals? > > "Braddo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:3bcf7448$[email hidden]... > > Well I ordered it yesterday from http://www.cc-inc.com/pcmall/ for$173.00

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> > US > > > > <snip momo wheel review> > > > > So far I am glad I purchased it - keep an eye out for it. If it was > $149.00 > > it would be a great deal. > > > > Brad > > >

On Thu, 18 Oct 2001 21:50:11 -0400, "Braddo" <[email hidden]> wrote: >Yes they have a lot more - I feel so anyway. They are far superior to the >Act Lab Force RS pedals. Imho they don't have more travel - but because they are much more precise, better resistance and the tilting of the pedals, they are SO much better than the original pedals. I ditched my CH pedals for them :) Andre

> Imho they don't have more travel - but because they are much more > precise, better resistance and the tilting of the pedals, they are SO > much better than the original pedals. I ditched my CH pedals for them That's encouraging - no squash ball needed?

On Fri, 19 Oct 2001 18:38:00 +1000, "Damien Smith" <[email hidden]> wrote: >> Imho they don't have more travel - but because they are much more >> precise, better resistance and the tilting of the pedals, they are SO >> much better than the original pedals. I ditched my CH pedals for them > >That's encouraging - no squash ball needed? Nope. I used a squashball for my CH pedals, but the Momo pedals don't need them. Even with shoes on I can brake perfectly stable. Andre

Ok, again thanks a lot :) I'd be interested to read how the wheel/pedals work with GPL so please put up a post about it afterwards. Thanks in advance, Simon. "Braddo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3bcf95c4$[email hidden]... > Yes they have a lot more - I feel so anyway. They are far superior to the > Act Lab Force RS pedals. > > I find the resistance of the new pedals impressive as well. > > Just played about 7 of the Nascar Heat mods and had a blast, especiallythe > GT40. > > GPL is now loading up............ > > late night ahead >

"Damien Smith" <[email hidden]> writes: > > Imho they don't have more travel - but because they are much more > > precise, better resistance and the tilting of the pedals, they are SO > > much better than the original pedals. I ditched my CH pedals for them > > That's encouraging - no squash ball needed? I installed a squash ball in my new momo wheel only two days after I bought it :-) The pedals seems to be slightly better than my old LWFF but the squash ball is such a huge improvement I just can't do without it anymore. A pressure sensitive brake pedal makes breaking in GPL _easy_. I don't believe any primarily position sensitive brake ever can achieve that, no matter how good it is. (The trick with the squash ball is to choose the ball and calibrate the brakes so that range of movement where the brakes start to lock up also is just where you really have to push hard on the brake to move it further. This allows you to just hit the brake pedal when its time to slow down. You still have the ability to break more or less if the situation requires, but since a relatively large difference in force is needed to move the pedal more or less, controlling the braking becomes a piece of cake.) _ Mats Lofkvist [email hidden]

On 19 Oct 2001 13:40:30 +0200, Mats Lofkvist <[email hidden]> wrote: >I installed a squash ball in my new momo wheel only two days >after I bought it :-)<snip> >Mats Lofkvist >[email hidden] Well I have to try it too then I guess :) did you tape the ball under the pedal, or openend the pedalcase and inserted the ball in the case? Andre

Where do I find said squash ball? Toys-R-Us? (no sarcasm intended) "Andre Warringa" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> On Fri, 19 Oct 2001 18:38:00 +1000, "Damien Smith" > <[email hidden]> wrote: > > >> Imho they don't have more travel - but because they are much more > >> precise, better resistance and the tilting of the pedals, they are SO > >> much better than the original pedals. I ditched my CH pedals for them > > > >That's encouraging - no squash ball needed? > > Nope. I used a squashball for my CH pedals, but the Momo pedals don't > need them. Even with shoes on I can brake perfectly stable. > > Andre

[email hidden] (Andre Warringa) writes:

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> On 19 Oct 2001 13:40:30 +0200, Mats Lofkvist <[email hidden]> wrote: > > >I installed a squash ball in my new momo wheel only two days > >after I bought it :-) > > Well I have to try it too then I guess :) did you tape the ball under > the pedal, or openend the pedalcase and inserted the ball in the case?

I opened the case and just replaced the spring with the ball. No modifications to the case or pedal are necessary, the ball is fixed between the pedal and a small recess in the case meant to keep the original spring in place. I just spent an hour driving the BRM at the 'ring and actually enjoyed it :-), that tells a lot about how good this wheel is even with the current force feedback problems. (Can't wait until the spiking and missing forces issues are fixed, the responses from Logitech at <http://www.wingmanteam.com/discus/messages/3/842.html?> looks like they are working on it.) _ Mats Lofkvist [email hidden]

Andre Warringa wrote in an earlier review that the Momo version is 270 degrees. -- Joe Marques "john Metcow" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > how about lock to lock angles > any improvement there ??? > > > > Simon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in > message > news:nQKz7.3715$[email hidden]... > > Thanks for the info. Can you tell me if the pedals > have any more travel > > than the original LWFF pedals? > > > > "Braddo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:3bcf7448$[email hidden]... > > > Well I ordered it yesterday from > http://www.cc-inc.com/pcmall/ for $173.00 > > > US > > > > > > <snip momo wheel review> > > > > > > So far I am glad I purchased it - keep an eye out > for it. If it was > > $149.00 > > > it would be a great deal. > > > > > > Brad > > > > > > >

"Mats Lofkvist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > (Can't wait until the spiking and missing forces issues are fixed, > the responses from Logitech at > <http://www.wingmanteam.com/discus/messages/3/842.html?> > looks like they are working on it.) I hope so...I recieved my new Momo force today and I'm not happy with it at all. The spiking problem in GPL makes it undriveable for me. The wheel works great with the other games I've tried, NFSPU, Colin McRae and GP3. In fact, as far a GP3 is concerned, the Momo Force is a huge improvement, but GPL is what I drive every day and it's just not possible with this wheel. -- don ------------------------------------------------------- BAPOM Alternative Program Covers for GPL http://www.trilon.com/bapom/

On 20 Oct 2001 02:42:13 +0200, Mats Lofkvist <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>I opened the case and just replaced the spring with the ball. >No modifications to the case or pedal are necessary, the ball >is fixed between the pedal and a small recess in the case meant >to keep the original spring in place. > >I just spent an hour driving the BRM at the 'ring and actually >enjoyed it :-), that tells a lot about how good this wheel is even >with the current force feedback problems. > >(Can't wait until the spiking and missing forces issues are fixed, >the responses from Logitech at ><http://www.wingmanteam.com/discus/messages/3/842.html?> >looks like they are working on it.) > > _ >Mats Lofkvist >[email hidden]

Thanks for the tip Mats, I'll try it out today :) Andre

On 20 Oct 2001 02:42:13 +0200, Mats Lofkvist <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>[email hidden] (Andre Warringa) writes: > >> On 19 Oct 2001 13:40:30 +0200, Mats Lofkvist <[email hidden]> wrote: >> >> >I installed a squash ball in my new momo wheel only two days >> >after I bought it :-) >> >> Well I have to try it too then I guess :) did you tape the ball under >> the pedal, or openend the pedalcase and inserted the ball in the case? > >I opened the case and just replaced the spring with the ball. >No modifications to the case or pedal are necessary, the ball >is fixed between the pedal and a small recess in the case meant >to keep the original spring in place.

Hi Mats, What type of squahsball did you use? I have one with a white dot on it and no way it fits in the pedal case. I can barely close the case with the squahball in it, have to use a lot of force getting the screws back in, and when it's closed I can hardly press the braking pedal, way too stiff. Andre

On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 18:34:11 +0200, Andre Warringa <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>What type of squahsball did you use? I have one with a white dot on it >and no way it fits in the pedal case. I can barely close the case with >the squahball in it, have to use a lot of force getting the screws >back in, and when it's closed I can hardly press the braking pedal, >way too stiff. > >Andre

Oh great, I can't seem to close the case anymore in a working way.. I managed to close it after lots of trying, but then the pedals moved to all sides, clearly the spring were not in place correct. Opened the case again, noticed that I bend some things on the potmeters when I closed the case.. how did you close the case with all the moving parts inside that have to keep in place? Andre

On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 19:31:42 +0200, Andre Warringa <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 18:34:11 +0200, Andre Warringa ><[email hidden]> wrote: > >>What type of squahsball did you use? I have one with a white dot on it >>and no way it fits in the pedal case. I can barely close the case with >>the squahball in it, have to use a lot of force getting the screws >>back in, and when it's closed I can hardly press the braking pedal, >>way too stiff. >> >>Andre > >Oh great, I can't seem to close the case anymore in a working way.. I >managed to close it after lots of trying, but then the pedals moved to >all sides, clearly the spring were not in place correct. Opened the >case again, noticed that I bend some things on the potmeters when I >closed the case.. how did you close the case with all the moving parts >inside that have to keep in place? > >Andre

Ok, fixed it thanks to the vroc guys.. fastened all the cables inside with tape and I had the pots in the wrong place, had to turn them 90 degrees, stupid me :-/ Andre

On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 20:05:10 +0200, Andre Warringa <[email hidden]> wrote: >Ok, fixed it thanks to the vroc guys.. fastened all the cables inside >with tape and I had the pots in the wrong place, had to turn them 90 >degrees, stupid me :-/ Ok after I figured out I made that stupid mistake with the pots, I tried to insert the squashball again. This time it succeeded and the braking is BLOODY PERFECT!! I just tried GPL and GP3 and boyoboy the braking is great now. It even feels like a real life braking pedal now :) But there is one problem.. In games where you can calibrate your controllers (GP3 and GPL) it works perfect. But after replacing the spring with the squashball, the calibration in Windows is not good anymore. When I go to game controller properties, the brake is pressed for 25% and if I push the pedal all the way it only goes to 75%. In games than don't let you recalibrate (F1 2001 and Rally Trophy) this is a major problem ofcourse.. Is there a way to override the auto-calibration of the Logitech wheels? Thanks again for the tip Mats, I've been messing a LOT with finding a good braking pedal solution, and this is by far the best solution :) Andre

Install Thrustmaster ProPanel (installs into Control Panel), this will allow you to recalibrate the wheel and pedals to your liking. Jaker Amjet On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 23:29:12 +0200, Andre Warringa <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 20:05:10 +0200, Andre Warringa ><[email hidden]> wrote: > >>Ok, fixed it thanks to the vroc guys.. fastened all the cables inside >>with tape and I had the pots in the wrong place, had to turn them 90 >>degrees, stupid me :-/ > >Ok after I figured out I made that stupid mistake with the pots, I >tried to insert the squashball again. This time it succeeded and the >braking is BLOODY PERFECT!! I just tried GPL and GP3 and boyoboy the >braking is great now. It even feels like a real life braking pedal now >:) >But there is one problem.. In games where you can calibrate your >controllers (GP3 and GPL) it works perfect. But after replacing the >spring with the squashball, the calibration in Windows is not good >anymore. When I go to game controller properties, the brake is pressed >for 25% and if I push the pedal all the way it only goes to 75%. >In games than don't let you recalibrate (F1 2001 and Rally Trophy) >this is a major problem ofcourse.. > >Is there a way to override the auto-calibration of the Logitech >wheels? > >Thanks again for the tip Mats, I've been messing a LOT with finding a >good braking pedal solution, and this is by far the best solution :) > >Andre

Install Thrustmaster ProPanel, this will allow you yo calibrate your wheel and pedal as you like. Jaker On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 23:29:12 +0200, Andre Warringa <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 20:05:10 +0200, Andre Warringa ><[email hidden]> wrote: > >>Ok, fixed it thanks to the vroc guys.. fastened all the cables inside >>with tape and I had the pots in the wrong place, had to turn them 90 >>degrees, stupid me :-/ > >Ok after I figured out I made that stupid mistake with the pots, I >tried to insert the squashball again. This time it succeeded and the >braking is BLOODY PERFECT!! I just tried GPL and GP3 and boyoboy the >braking is great now. It even feels like a real life braking pedal now >:) >But there is one problem.. In games where you can calibrate your >controllers (GP3 and GPL) it works perfect. But after replacing the >spring with the squashball, the calibration in Windows is not good >anymore. When I go to game controller properties, the brake is pressed >for 25% and if I push the pedal all the way it only goes to 75%. >In games than don't let you recalibrate (F1 2001 and Rally Trophy) >this is a major problem ofcourse.. > >Is there a way to override the auto-calibration of the Logitech >wheels? > >Thanks again for the tip Mats, I've been messing a LOT with finding a >good braking pedal solution, and this is by far the best solution :) > >Andre

I might have to get one of these... At one time, I picked up a Logitech Force GP wheel, but felt that they had dropped the quality immensely from the original Logitech FF wheel. I never bought the original because I couldn't stand the pedals. I've been using MSFFW's for several years. The wheel's are nice, but Microsoft's SideWinder software is crud, and Microsoft hasn't shown much interest in supporting it's users with useful software updates. I thought about going with Act-Labs, but they can't be purchased in stores. Big mistake. I've been burned by so many low-quality controllers that I won't buy anything I can't touch and try first. Finally, I really like Logitech's profiler software. It works. It makes sense. It automatically moves the controller you choose to the first controller slot in the system so it gets around the problem of games that can't understand two controllers (or programmers that are too damned lazy) properly. This might be the one! -Larry "Braddo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:3bcf7448$[email hidden]... > Well I ordered it yesterday from http://www.cc-inc.com/pcmall/ for $173.00 > US > and it arrived this am, not bad for 2nd day air. > > It is not brown but Red - pedals looks great and feel great - wheel isnice

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> wrapped leather and looks like the old red LWFF (a lot lighter though) > > Well I own the following wheels: > > (1) Act Labs Force RS - and Shifter (Awaiting new perf clutch pedals this > week they ship supposedly) > (2) MSFF Wheel > (3) Two original Red LWFF wheels - thinking about doing the JS schumi Ball > bearing upgrade to one of them. > (4) CH Pedals > > Quick opinion on the MOMO wheel: (I can post some pics this weekend on a > page) > > (i) Pedals are a huge improvement over the earlier models (the head of the > pedals pivot on the shafts and the resistance is a nice balance I feel) - > THe metal plate under the feet is a great touch. > > (ii) Wheel - Momo wheel looks great - leather wrapped black is great - I > prefer the shapre of the wheel over the Act Labs Wheel. > > (iii) Motor system in the wheel - well not pulled apart yet but it is A

LOT

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> lighter than the original LWFF however it is real smooth and I think gears > not cables. > > All I have done so far is setup and install - no probs at all since I am > running 4.1 of Logi profiler. > > Games ran so far : (30 mins each) > > F1 2000 - great feel - no ff back - game prob though - This wheel is

great > for this game - better than the Act Labs as the wheel is not so notchy. > Nascar 4 - FF are spot on - pedals are very accurate and wheel is precise > > So far I am glad I purchased it - keep an eye out for it. If it was$149.00

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> it would be a great deal. > > Brad > > > > > > >

Have you adjusted the FF settings in the core.ini file? -Larry "don hodgdon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9qqval$ihh$[email hidden]...

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> > "Mats Lofkvist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:[email hidden]... > > (Can't wait until the spiking and missing forces issues are fixed, > > the responses from Logitech at > > <http://www.wingmanteam.com/discus/messages/3/842.html?> > > looks like they are working on it.) > > I hope so...I recieved my new Momo force today and I'm not happy with it

at > all. The spiking problem in GPL makes it undriveable for me. The wheelworks > great with the other games I've tried, NFSPU, Colin McRae and GP3. Infact, > as far a GP3 is concerned, the Momo Force is a huge improvement, but GPLis

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> what I drive every day and it's just not possible with this wheel. > > -- > don > ------------------------------------------------------- > BAPOM > Alternative Program Covers for GPL > http://www.trilon.com/bapom/ > > > >

Yes, continually since receiving the wheel. don "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:P7tA7.22786$%[email hidden]... > Have you adjusted the FF settings in the core.ini file? > > -Larry >

On Sun, 21 Oct 2001 05:34:39 GMT, "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote: >Have you adjusted the FF settings in the core.ini file? > >-Larry It's a bug in the newest Logi drivers (which are necessary for the momo wheel) which cause the problems in GPL. They're working on it.. Andre

Andre Warringa <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

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> On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 20:05:10 +0200, Andre Warringa > <[email hidden]> wrote: > > Is there a way to override the auto-calibration of the Logitech > wheels? > > Andre

There is a utility on the wingmanteam site called ClrCalib that will do just that. Run the program, unplug the wheel and plug it back in again and you can calibrate from scratch. There is also an option to do it in dxtweak. N.B. you should avoid using dxtweak unless you use the clear calibration button as it screws up the calibration values for the MOMO. Darren

On 22 Oct 2001 16:27:19 -0700, [email hidden] (Darren Marsh) wrote:

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>There is a utility on the wingmanteam site called ClrCalib that will >do just that. Run the program, unplug the wheel and plug it back in >again and you can calibrate from scratch. There is also an option to >do it in dxtweak. >N.B. you should avoid using dxtweak unless you use the clear >calibration button as it screws up the calibration values for the >MOMO.

Yep, I found that out the hard way the same day I bought my Momo.. I fixed the messed up values with ClrCalib then, but I didn't think of using ClrCalib to recalibrate the pedals. Thanks for the tip :) Andre >Darren