LWFF replacement pots

Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle (or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. Thanks in advance.

Check out Mike Bay's site for replacement pots for the LWFF: http://website.lineone.net/~mikebay/MTPots.htm -- don ------------------------------------------------------- BAPOM Alternative Program Covers for GPL http://www.trilon.com/bapom/ "Mario Petrinovic" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9sds16$1j15$[email hidden]... > Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle > (or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). > And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. > Thanks in advance. > > > >

CH pots are great quality and plug right into the LWF and LWFF wheels (or pedals). Not sure whether you need the 100k or 50k, or if it matters; anyone? http://www.chproducts.com/shop/parts.html SB "Mario Petrinovic" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9sds16$1j15$[email hidden]...

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> Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle > (or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). > And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. > Thanks in advance. > > > >

Hi Mario I have recently brought a 3 year old cheapo TM. pot back from the dead. I am currently using it for the last couple of months and it is functioning perfectly. It had suffered from spiking from new. This is what I did. Remove the pot from the wheel completely. Taking note of the orientation of the various parts ( it can be re-assembled with position of solder lugs upside down), dis-assemble it by bending up securing tabs. Meticulously remove all traces of old grease from the tracks and wipers, don't forget to clean inside top of the can. With a very FINE grade scrap of wet & dry remove all signs of oxidation from the wipers and metal track till they shine. The wipers can be slightly bent or a thin shim (about 0.5mm) can be placed between the wiper carrier and the inside top of the can to improve contact tension. I cut one from some clear acetate packaging material. (On re-assembly you should be able to turn the shaft VERY easily with thumb and first finger if not then it is too tight.) Check the solder lugs in case the crimping is loose, tighten if necessary ( careful not to crack if carbon track type) Fairly liberally coat all the tracks and wipers with fresh grease. I have heard Vaseline will do although I used a high melting point, lithium based automotive grade. Also grease the shaft and the inside top of the can where it abuts the top of the wiper carrier. Keep the grease away from the solder lugs or you will have trouble making your connections. Reassemble and refit to wheel. "Mario Petrinovic" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9sds16$1j15$[email hidden]...

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> Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle > (or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). > And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. > Thanks in advance. > > > >

Thanks all very much. I'm sure a lot of people will use that info.

Yup, I've done this many times, but.... I find that this is only a short cure to be used when pots are not available..... But If tinkering with small electrical parts lights your candle...... BTW, The Medium Grade Thomas Super Wheel Pots (NTE I believe) can be found in the Boston Massachusetts USA area @ Active Electronics, which have two stores located in: Woburn - In the mall north of Staples on Washington St. South of RT128 or the new name RT95 And in: Cambridge just across from the street from Best Buy/Sears (North side) down the road from the Lechmere "T" station (<West of). They have a variety of OHMage and shaft length, but in stock quantities vary by store. he he They should have some, since I'm not around that area anymore. $6.99 was the last list price that I paid over a year ago, your price may vary. Still should be cheaper than TSW's $12.00 each, but that includes shipping so..... This is an NTE pot, so anywhere that you can get NTE electrical parts should do. I've used these pots successfully in a Nascar Pro years ago, both wheel & pedals. The pedal pots did require much hacking & filing of the shafts. IMO NTE pots are better than Radio Shack types, but I still wear them out pretty fast. About 1 to 1 1/2 months time. Has anyone had any experience using the "Plastic Conductive Mil Spec" pots? like kinds that you can get from DigiKey? http://www.digikey.com And does anyone have a good replacement (supplier) for the bungee? I use to get some good quality (stiff) stuff from a Mountain climbing supplier, but they have since started stocking a thinner and weaker type. :( I like a "Stiff" wheel. People look me funny when I'm testing out bungee's in stores for stiffness. Why is this? Doesn't everybody race Sims with wheels? LOL -- R.I.P. - William Joseph Dunlop OBE MBE 2/25/52 - 7/2/2000 http://www.roadracers.uk.com/legend.htm

Just out of curiosity, how do you wear pots out so fast? I've had my LWFF for a couple of years now. A couple of months ago I started using CH pedals instead of the LWFF's, but not because of any problems with the pots. The wheel seems to be as smooth and spike-free as ever. I've never even opened the cover much less replaced or cleaned anything... Are you in a really dusty environment or do you just use the wheel 20 hours a day? Rob "REDLINE426" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:qPAG7.33858$[email hidden]... > IMO NTE pots are better than Radio Shack types, but I still wear them out > pretty fast. > About 1 to 1 1/2 months time.

Steve- I have the Logitech Wingman Formula (non-FF); perhaps the pots in it are different than the FF model, but mine do not look like the standard "round" pots in the picture. The ones in mine are square, with a little tit that drops into a slot to keep the pot from turning. Is there someway to make the CH pots work like that? Mario- My pots start spiking about every 3 months; I take them out and tediously work some TV Cleaner/Lubricator that's sold by Radio Shack (I'm not sure; are you in the U.S.?) into the pot and let it dry thouroughly. It's then good as new until the next time. As far as purchasing the original pots from Logitech, they claim they are not available. Fletch "Steve Blankenship" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<xMxG7.13212$[email hidden]>...

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> CH pots are great quality and plug right into the LWF and LWFF wheels (or pedals). Not sure whether you need the 100k or 50k, or if > it matters; anyone? > > http://www.chproducts.com/shop/parts.html > > SB > > "Mario Petrinovic" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9sds16$1j15$[email hidden]... > > Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle > > (or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). > > And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > > >

Mario- Man, do I look like a dummy now; can't believe I missed in your letter that you were in Croatia. Oh well, it's been a very, very long day.... Anyway, if you just try to find some product like the one I use, it should work fine. Just don't use alcohol; it will clean it just fine, but it has no lubricating qualities, and I believe that's necessary. Fletch "Steve Blankenship" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<xMxG7.13212$[email hidden]>...

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> CH pots are great quality and plug right into the LWF and LWFF wheels (or pedals). Not sure whether you need the 100k or 50k, or if > it matters; anyone? > > http://www.chproducts.com/shop/parts.html > > SB > > "Mario Petrinovic" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9sds16$1j15$[email hidden]... > > Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle > > (or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). > > And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > > >

MotoRacer was a start with a Thrustmaster GP1 Castrol Honda Superbike World Champions AMA SuperBike was next.... Thrustmaster Nascar Pro. EA's Superbike 2000 was next wheel beater with a lot of Lock to Lock and heavy use of Throttle & Brake pedal use at the same time, (to stabilize the lean angle). EA's Superbike 2001 - same as above. UbiSoft's F1RS is a real button wear-er-outer, (manual shift only here IMO) The buttons took the same abuse in the motorcycle Sims, esp. the downshift button. Also Nascar 1, 2, 99, 3, Legends, GPL, NFS all titles, GP3 And of course Carmageddon........LOL (the original version, with blood) :-) And whatever bargain bin racing Sim I find, heh. But alas, living in an apartment doesn't allow me to have the proper workbench for the maintenance of my 3 wheels, so I'm stuck with a cheapo joystick which is working out pretty well. Except for the tight road course's, using a joystick throttle is a bitch! :-( someday soon, hopefully......... -- R.I.P. - William Joseph Dunlop OBE MBE 2/25/52 - 7/2/2000 http://www.roadracers.uk.com/legend.htm

On Thu, 08 Nov 2001 19:33:13 GMT, "Rob Adams" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>Just out of curiosity, how do you wear pots out so fast? I've had my LWFF >for a couple of years now. A couple of months ago I started using CH pedals >instead of the LWFF's, but not because of any problems with the pots. The >wheel seems to be as smooth and spike-free as ever. I've never even opened >the cover much less replaced or cleaned anything... > >Are you in a really dusty environment or do you just use the wheel 20 hours >a day? > >Rob > >"REDLINE426" <[email hidden]> wrote in message >news:qPAG7.33858$[email hidden]... >> IMO NTE pots are better than Radio Shack types, but I still wear them out >> pretty fast. >> About 1 to 1 1/2 months time.

Hallo, Be advised: regarding pots, I got a TSW GT three years and three months ago. I am retired and have time to relentlessly hammer GPL tracks. I have put at least a thousand hours into the game. The original pots continue to perform perfectly. I wonder if they EVER will go south! The TSW is superb! No spring problems, no nothing problems. The only problem I ever have is caused by overstressing the computer. FWIW. Sam

It's OK. Theme is universal and your info will help somebody else. In my part of the world we usually get German products. At home I have something German called "Kontakt 40", but I'm not sure if that is the right thing. They say "schutzt vor Korrosion, lost Rost, verdrangt Wasser, startet nasse Motoren, schmiert und pflegt". I'll try tomorrow in some electrical store and will be specific. The thing that puzzles me is, will it help just to spray the thing inside the pot, or do I have to dismantle pot and properly clean it. "David Fletcher" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> Mario- > > Man, do I look like a dummy now; can't believe I missed in your letter > that you were in Croatia. Oh well, it's been a very, very long day.... > > Anyway, if you just try to find some product like the one I use, it > should work fine. Just don't use alcohol; it will clean it just fine, > but it has no lubricating qualities, and I believe that's necessary. > > Fletch >

Hmmm.... My own reference point is also a non-force LWF (and the CH pedals I wired up to use with it). The pots in my LWF look just like the ones in my CH pedals. Perhaps a running change (?) as mine's about as old as they come; got it when they first came out. SB "David Fletcher" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> Steve- > > I have the Logitech Wingman Formula (non-FF); perhaps the pots in it > are different than the FF model, but mine do not look like the > standard "round" pots in the picture. The ones in mine are square, > with a little tit that drops into a slot to keep the pot from turning. > Is there someway to make the CH pots work like that? > > Mario- > > My pots start spiking about every 3 months; I take them out and > tediously work some TV Cleaner/Lubricator that's sold by Radio Shack > (I'm not sure; are you in the U.S.?) into the pot and let it dry > thouroughly. It's then good as new until the next time. As far as > purchasing the original pots from Logitech, they claim they are not > available. > > Fletch > > > > "Steve Blankenship" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<xMxG7.13212$[email hidden]>... > > CH pots are great quality and plug right into the LWF and LWFF wheels (or pedals). Not sure whether you need the 100k or 50k,

or if

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> > it matters; anyone? > > > > http://www.chproducts.com/shop/parts.html > > > > SB > > > > "Mario Petrinovic" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:9sds16$1j15$[email hidden]... > > > Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle > > > (or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). > > > And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > > > > > > >

>Has anyone had any experience using the "Plastic Conductive Mil Spec" pots? >like kinds that you can get from DigiKey? http://www.digikey.com Don't know about those specifically, but I've replaced my pots with audio grade conductive plastic pots, they are rated to last 4 times longer than standard cemert pots. So far so good, but I need proper drivers for Win2000 though :( They seem to be a lot more stable with no spiking at all. Rafe Mc

I have almost 4000 hours in an ECCI w. mil-spec pots. No probs (except wife yelling, "Get a LIFE!"). "Samuel Senior" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > On Thu, 08 Nov 2001 19:33:13 GMT, "Rob Adams" <[email hidden]> > wrote: > > >Just out of curiosity, how do you wear pots out so fast? I've had my LWFF > >for a couple of years now. A couple of months ago I started using CHpedals > >instead of the LWFF's, but not because of any problems with the pots. The > >wheel seems to be as smooth and spike-free as ever. I've never evenopened > >the cover much less replaced or cleaned anything... > > > >Are you in a really dusty environment or do you just use the wheel 20hours

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> >a day? > > > >Rob > > > >"REDLINE426" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > >news:qPAG7.33858$[email hidden]... > >> IMO NTE pots are better than Radio Shack types, but I still wear them

out

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> >> pretty fast. > >> About 1 to 1 1/2 months time. > > Hallo, > Be advised: regarding pots, I got a TSW GT three years and three > months ago. I am retired and have time to relentlessly hammer GPL > tracks. I have put at least a thousand hours into the game. The > original pots continue to perform perfectly. I wonder if they EVER > will go south! The TSW is superb! No spring problems, no nothing > problems. The only problem I ever have is caused by overstressing the > computer. FWIW. > Sam > >

>(except wife yelling, "Get a LIFE!"). ROFL Ever opened the ECCI up and taken a peek inside? What type of pots do they use? Bourns? 50k or 100k Ohms? Also what do they use for wheel tension? Just curious as I have seen little of the insides of this wheel. I have always felt that this wheel could stand up to my use, but the price... And I'm not to fond of the pedal setup. -- 1907 - Daytona Beach Florida Glenn H. Curtiss rode a V8 powered motorcycle to a 136.30 mph record in the measured mile. The Chicago Daily News headline reads: "Fastest Mile On Earth, Bullets Are The Only Rivals Of Glenn Curtiss"

I've opened up my ECCI CDS4000 numerous times, because I can't stop looking at the inside :-) The pots that are used are from Clarostat, Type J, 100k Ohms. Yep, they're from Mexico :-) The wheel tension system is pretty complicated: by turning the wheel, a rotating disc that's not round pushes down a lever which pushes down one, two or three springs which provide the tension. In my case, also a pulley is turned to provide fluid damped steering (so when you release the wheel, it doesn't spring back to the center like mad). Here are some pictures of the inside of the ECCI CDS4000. I took them myself, so if anything's not clear, sue me! LOL http://www.geocities.com/joeri_cox/ERL/ecciinside.jpg http://www.geocities.com/joeri_cox/ERL/eccisprings.jpg --- Joeri J. Cox European Racing League - Taming The NASCAR Tracks Since April 2000 http://www.europeanracingleague.com ERL is proudly sponsored by Thomas Enterprises, makers of the TSW and TSW2 http://www.thomas-superwheel.com Co-founder of 502 Racing http://www.502racing.com "REDLINE426" <[email hidden]> schreef in bericht news:ZScH7.34582$[email hidden]...

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> >(except wife yelling, "Get a LIFE!"). > > ROFL > > Ever opened the ECCI up and taken a peek inside? > What type of pots do they use? Bourns? 50k or 100k Ohms? > Also what do they use for wheel tension? > Just curious as I have seen little of the insides of this wheel. > I have always felt that this wheel could stand up to my use, but the > price... > And I'm not to fond of the pedal setup. > > -- > 1907 - Daytona Beach Florida > > Glenn H. Curtiss rode a V8 powered motorcycle > to a 136.30 mph record in the measured mile. > > The Chicago Daily News headline reads: > "Fastest Mile On Earth, Bullets Are The Only Rivals Of Glenn Curtiss" > > >

Mike provides the steering pots (100k) the pedal pots are 10k, but same design. Let me guess: sometimes during racing the throttle doesn't exceed ca. 80% anymore and you only can solve this by restarting Windows (or unplugging-replugging the wheel) If so, simply change throttle and brake pot. it is like having new ones. The slider operates then on a fresh layer of graphite. Cya Jens On Thu, 8 Nov 2001 12:58:42 +0100, "Mario Petrinovic" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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> Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle >(or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). >And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. > Thanks in advance. > > >

--------------------------------------------- LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at: http://jensschumi.tripod.com/ GPLRank: -14.82 Monsters of GPL: sub 95

Yes that's right. Thanks. But, I was sceptical about that solution because if I just change them I will make them work the oposite way. The needles in test screen will go from right to left instead of left to right. But since you are expert I suppose there is no problem with that. What I did is to spray pot (without dismantling it ) with some German product called "Kontact 60 ", and so far I'm pleased with result. Since you sound like German I belive you can tell me if I did right. Thanks in advance. "JS" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> Mike provides the steering pots (100k) > the pedal pots are 10k, but same design. > > Let me guess: sometimes during racing the throttle doesn't exceed ca. 80% > anymore and you only can solve this by restarting Windows (or > unplugging-replugging the wheel) > > If so, simply change throttle and brake pot. it is like having new ones.

The

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> slider operates then on a fresh layer of graphite. > > Cya > Jens > > On Thu, 8 Nov 2001 12:58:42 +0100, "Mario Petrinovic" > <[email hidden]> wrote: > > > Does anyone know where I can find replecement throttle > >(or any other ) pots for my LWFF. I live in Europe (Croatia ). > >And what is the best way to clean the one I have now. > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at: > http://jensschumi.tripod.com/ > > GPLRank: -14.82 > Monsters of GPL: sub 95

Mario, when changing the pots you have also to change the wires, so you don't have any trouble calibrating the thing later. The trick is as follows: The pedal-pots are only used to a very low percentage of its travel (360 deg.). Guess from the pedal throw, it's only around 15 deg or so. If you swap the pots, they utilize another 15 deg of the graphite layer, which is thankfully not the same with the former used one. So you get new pots for free so-to-say :-) About that contact cleaners: I'm biased about this stuff. Too many different compositions, lubricating or only cleaning, ... For sure a contact cleaner cannot repair your pot, the improvement is only for a short time. The damage done by the cleaner to the pot is unclear, what worries me if I those thingies are not available in the electronic shop 'round the corner. Cya Jens BTW: Kontakt 60 (or alotta other numbers) is sold worlwide. i have it here in my shelf as Contact 60 :-) On Tue, 13 Nov 2001 11:53:53 +0100, "Mario Petrinovic" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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> Yes that's right. Thanks. But, I was sceptical about that >solution because if I just change them I will make them work >the oposite way. The needles in test screen will go from right >to left instead of left to right. But since you are expert I >suppose there is no problem with that. > What I did is to spray pot (without dismantling it ) with >some German product called "Kontact 60 ", and so far I'm >pleased with result. Since you sound like German I belive >you can tell me if I did right. > Thanks in advance. >

--------------------------------------------- LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at: http://jensschumi.tripod.com/ GPLRank: -14.82 Monsters of GPL: sub 95

Thanks Schumy. Very informative. "JS" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Mario, > when changing the pots you have also to change the wires, so you don'thave any > trouble calibrating the thing later. > The trick is as follows: > The pedal-pots are only used to a very low percentage of its travel (360deg.). > Guess from the pedal throw, it's only around 15 deg or so. If you swap thepots, > they utilize another 15 deg of the graphite layer, which is thankfully notthe > same with the former used one. So you get new pots for free so-to-say :-) > > About that contact cleaners: > I'm biased about this stuff. Too many different compositions, lubricatingor > only cleaning, ... > For sure a contact cleaner cannot repair your pot, the improvement is onlyfor a > short time. The damage done by the cleaner to the pot is unclear, whatworries

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> me if I those thingies are not available in the electronic shop 'round the > corner. > > Cya > Jens > > BTW: > Kontakt 60 (or alotta other numbers) is sold worlwide. i have it here in

my > shelf as Contact 60 :-)

Joeri, Great pictures! Now I realize the price of the ECCI wheels, very well made! I'll bet that "Fluid Damper" costs a pretty penny. Looks like a much better centering mechanism than bungee's or screen door springs. :-) All I've ever seen is what was on their web site with just some of the internal components lying outside the unit. Sue? The only worry you should have about being sued is from ECCI maybe. LOL Thanx.. -- 1907 - Daytona Beach Florida Glenn H. Curtiss rode a V8 powered motorcycle to a 136.30 mph record in the measured mile. The Chicago Daily News headline reads: "Fastest Mile On Earth, Bullets Are The Only Rivals Of Glenn Curtiss"