How tough is the MOMO?

I've more or less destroyed my current steering wheel (Thrustmaster 360 Modena), the springs on the gearshift paddles have broken, the throttle pedal has gone very light presumably from a broken spring in there too, and finally the clamp has gone. I don't *think* I was particularly hard on it, but then my wheel before that only lasted a week (mind you, it was a Logic3 Topdrive, which was a shockingly bad heap of junk). Time for a new wheel, and the MOMO (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Steering_Wheels.html , 2nd one down) seems to be the one to go for, but will it survive? I don't mind spending �70 on a wheel if its going to last me, but if I'm going to kill it after a few months I'd rather get another cheap one. So, as the header says, is the MOMO wheel tough? Tim -- ---------------- I love the smell of vomit in the newsgroup, it smells like...VICTORY! Jim M - Usenet out-take If you want to reply by email, replace the asterisks with underscores.

"Helicon_One" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:4377b13f$0$82651$[email hidden]...

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> I've more or less destroyed my current steering wheel (Thrustmaster 360 > Modena), the springs on the gearshift paddles have broken, the throttle > pedal has gone very light presumably from a broken spring in there too, > and finally the clamp has gone. I don't *think* I was particularly hard on > it, but then my wheel before that only lasted a week (mind you, it was a > Logic3 Topdrive, which was a shockingly bad heap of junk). > > Time for a new wheel, and the MOMO > (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Steering_Wheels.html , 2nd one > down) seems to be the one to go for, but will it survive? I don't mind > spending �70 on a wheel if its going to last me, but if I'm going to kill > it after a few months I'd rather get another cheap one. So, as the header > says, is the MOMO wheel tough? > > Tim > -- > ---------------- >

Mine seems to be going ok after over 12 months. have the odd problem with the pedals and calibration. but thats a well known problem. I just take them apart, re-adjust and its been fine. haven't had to pull them apart for 4 months. but the steering wheel itself is fairly sturdy. But the paddles are plastic, so I wouldn't go abusing them. cheers steve

"Helicon_One" <[email hidden]> wrote > > Time for a new wheel, and the MOMO > (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Steering_Wheels.html , 2nd onedown) > seems to be the one to go for, but will it survive? I don't mind spending > �70 on a wheel if its going to last me, but if I'm going to kill it aftera > few months I'd rather get another cheap one. So, as the header says, isthe > MOMO wheel tough? > > Tim If you can still find one anywhere, the Momo Force wheel is brilliant. I've had mine nearly 3 years and there's no sign of wear. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005QZVC/103-5983142-1031838?v=glance&n=1 72282&v=glance no longer available at this link, just showing the model.

I would go for Logitech Driving force Pro. I have had Thrustmaster, Momo and now DFPro and it is the best one so far. The feeling is stiffer and the 900 degrees wheel turn is a nice feature as well. "Helicon_One" <[email hidden]> kirjoitti viestiss�:4377b13f$0$82651$[email hidden]...

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> I've more or less destroyed my current steering wheel (Thrustmaster 360 > Modena), the springs on the gearshift paddles have broken, the throttle > pedal has gone very light presumably from a broken spring in there too, > and finally the clamp has gone. I don't *think* I was particularly hard on > it, but then my wheel before that only lasted a week (mind you, it was a > Logic3 Topdrive, which was a shockingly bad heap of junk). > > Time for a new wheel, and the MOMO > (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Steering_Wheels.html , 2nd one > down) seems to be the one to go for, but will it survive? I don't mind > spending �70 on a wheel if its going to last me, but if I'm going to kill > it after a few months I'd rather get another cheap one. So, as the header > says, is the MOMO wheel tough? > > Tim > -- > ---------------- > I love the smell of vomit in the newsgroup, it smells like...VICTORY! > Jim M - Usenet out-take > > If you want to reply by email, replace the asterisks with underscores. >

Helicon_One wrote:

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> I've more or less destroyed my current steering wheel (Thrustmaster 360 > Modena), the springs on the gearshift paddles have broken, the throttle > pedal has gone very light presumably from a broken spring in there too, and > finally the clamp has gone. I don't *think* I was particularly hard on it, > but then my wheel before that only lasted a week (mind you, it was a Logic3 > Topdrive, which was a shockingly bad heap of junk). > > Time for a new wheel, and the MOMO > (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Steering_Wheels.html , 2nd one down) > seems to be the one to go for, but will it survive? I don't mind spending > �70 on a wheel if its going to last me, but if I'm going to kill it after a > few months I'd rather get another cheap one. So, as the header says, is the > MOMO wheel tough? > > Tim

I've had mine a couple of years with no problems. I use it with ECCI pedals. -- Scott B. Husted http://www.Husted.cc

"Ian P" wrote... >> So, as the header says, is the MOMO wheel tough? > > If you can still find one anywhere, the Momo Force wheel is brilliant. > I've had mine nearly 3 years and there's no sign of wear. Mine is about the same age and, after 5 repairs, it's all but had it. Jan. =---

No sign of wear? Hell you have to race to 'wear' it... I still hear nothing but good things (so far overall) about the playstation capable USB version of the Logitech Sim Driving Pro wheels. Ian P enlightened us with:

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> "Helicon_One" <[email hidden]> wrote >> >> Time for a new wheel, and the MOMO >> (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Steering_Wheels.html , 2nd >> one down) seems to be the one to go for, but will it survive? I >> don't mind spending �70 on a wheel if its going to last me, but if >> I'm going to kill it after a few months I'd rather get another cheap >> one. So, as the header says, is the MOMO wheel tough? >> >> Tim > > If you can still find one anywhere, the Momo Force wheel is > brilliant. I've had mine nearly 3 years and there's no sign of wear. > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005QZVC/103-5983142-1031838?v=glance&n=1 > 72282&v=glance no longer available at this link, just showing the > model.

Helicon_One wrote: > Time for a new wheel, and the MOMO > (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Steering_Wheels.html , 2nd one down) > seems to be the one to go for, but will it survive? I don't mind spending > �70 on a wheel if its going to last me, but if I'm going to kill it after a > few months I'd rather get another cheap one. So, as the header says, is the > MOMO wheel tough? I've had mine for about two years now, and the wheel itself has withstood my punishment. However: 1. The pedals are the weak spot in the package. The pot in my accelerator pedal is spiking 3/4 of the way in it's travel. Not good for short tracking. I'd recommend buying a real set of pedals for this wheel, though the pedals suffice if you're gentle on them. 2. The wheel has a definite notchiness to it. Personally, I don't like it but I put up with it because I can't afford a TSW right now. However, I've read that the leather version of the MOMO doesn't have this problem (I think it's belt driven?) All in all, it's a good wheel for the price (I paid $100 for mine). And the FF is powerful enough to make a desk shake. :) -Will

I have the cheap Momo, and I've only been using it for few months. A great deal of slop is already starting to develop in the steering shaft. I can wobble it back and forth at will already. One of the things they removed in the cheap Momo was the shaft bearing. It was a bad idea as far as I can tell so far. The DFP has a bearing again, but the damned thing doesn't have a third clamp and won't stay put on my desk. Logitech always seems to be about the wrong copromise, for me at least :( -Larry "William Bradshaw" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> Helicon_One wrote: > >> Time for a new wheel, and the MOMO >> (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Steering_Wheels.html , 2nd one >> down) seems to be the one to go for, but will it survive? I don't mind >> spending �70 on a wheel if its going to last me, but if I'm going to kill >> it after a few months I'd rather get another cheap one. So, as the header >> says, is the MOMO wheel tough? > > I've had mine for about two years now, and the wheel itself has withstood > my punishment. However: > > 1. The pedals are the weak spot in the package. The pot in my accelerator > pedal is spiking 3/4 of the way in it's travel. Not good for short > tracking. I'd recommend buying a real set of pedals for this wheel, though > the pedals suffice if you're gentle on them. > > 2. The wheel has a definite notchiness to it. Personally, I don't like it > but I put up with it because I can't afford a TSW right now. However, I've > read that the leather version of the MOMO doesn't have this problem (I > think it's belt driven?) > > All in all, it's a good wheel for the price (I paid $100 for mine). And > the FF is powerful enough to make a desk shake. :) > > > -Will

"PlowBoy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:Lf7ef.7592$sg5.6608@dukeread12... > No sign of wear? Hell you have to race to 'wear' it... > > I still hear nothing but good things (so far overall) about theplaystation > capable USB version of the Logitech Sim Driving Pro wheels. > > My Momo must have averaged over 10 hours a week for about 150 weeks. It's been used for everything from GPL through NASCAR 4, 2003, F1C, GTR, LFS, Netkar, RBR and GTL and still feels as solid now as it did when I bought it. My new DFP is currently sitting in a cupboard because it just feels unsubstantial compared to the Momo (it's also very notchy). My old MSFF wheels (2 of) and MSPW all bit the dust relatively early in their lifespan. IanP

Interestingly, my MSFFW's were the most reliable I ever had, only recently dying, and that was just a bad A/C Pack. -Larry "Ian P" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:437a1ff1$0$82663$[email hidden]...

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> My Momo must have averaged over 10 hours a week for about 150 weeks. It's > been used for everything from GPL through NASCAR 4, 2003, F1C, GTR, LFS, > Netkar, RBR and GTL and still feels as solid now as it did when I bought > it. > My new DFP is currently sitting in a cupboard because it just feels > unsubstantial compared to the Momo (it's also very notchy). > My old MSFF wheels (2 of) and MSPW all bit the dust relatively early in > their lifespan. > > IanP > >

>The feeling is stiffer and the 900 degrees wheel turn is a nice feature as well. 900 degrees!!? or 2.5 revolutions lock to lock? Cool! and remind me never to go side by side with you into a corner..

I've had 2 Momo force wheels, the first was replaced under warrentee after 13 months (thanks logitech) when it started to get lose calibration mid way through a race. Logitech were great about it, that was almost a year ago. Dug out my old Thrustmaster FF while waiting for the replacement and I have to say there's pros and cons to each: Momo much nicer software to map buttons (thrustmaster's was virutally unusable) A little lighter action nicer feel in the hands however both wheels wore where my right thumb is and there's rubber marbles that come off better attachment to desk great customer service TM More buttons bigger pedals great customer service

He's easy to spot. Just look for the guy whacking his elbow's on the roll cage :) -Larry "mcewena" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > >The feeling is stiffer and the 900 degrees wheel turn is a nice feature > >as well. > > 900 degrees!!? or 2.5 revolutions lock to lock? Cool! and remind me > never to go side by side with you into a corner.. >

"mcewena" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > >The feeling is stiffer and the 900 degrees wheel turn is a nice feature > >as well. > > 900 degrees!!? or 2.5 revolutions lock to lock? Cool! and remind me > never to go side by side with you into a corner.. The software allows you to set it from 40 to 900. -- David G Fisher

"William Bradshaw" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > > 1. The pedals are the weak spot in the package. The pot in my accelerator > pedal is spiking 3/4 of the way in it's travel. Not good for short > tracking. I'd recommend buying a real set of pedals for this wheel, though > the pedals suffice if you're gentle on them. > Open up the pedal box. You will see the design is a joke - the pots simply sit in a flimsy way and as the attachment from them to the pedals gets older and flexible, the pots can simply turn in their seat throwing calibration out. Fix - pull the pot out - there is a nipple beneath it that is "supposed" to keep it seated "properly". Cut off about 1cm from the end off an ink pen's plastic tube and squeeze it over that nipple (opening the end of the tube out a bit with a fork is useful). Slide the pot back in place with the tube squeazing down into the section below and you now have a rigidly seated pot! 10 min job. I have done this twice with 2 different units - perfect afterwards.

William Bradshaw wrote: > I've read that the leather version of the MOMO doesn't have this problem > (I think it's belt driven?) > No it's not. Maybe the ballbearing makes it feel smooth? ------ Jone http://tytlandsvik.no/momo/

I thinks the motor in the Racing is a bit more powerful than the motor in the Force which in turn makes it feel more smooth. Reduce the forces a bit and you will see the racing get smoother albeit less powerful. It's a happy medium you should be looking for. Mitch "Jone Tytlandsvik" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:43808997$0$41151$[email hidden]...

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> William Bradshaw wrote: > >> I've read that the leather version of the MOMO doesn't have this problem >> (I think it's belt driven?) >> > > No it's not. Maybe the ballbearing makes it feel smooth? > > ------ > Jone > http://tytlandsvik.no/momo/

William Bradshaw <[email hidden]> wrote in news:1132074561.846542 @news001.transaeris.com: > 2. The wheel has a definite notchiness to it. Personally, I don't like > it but I put up with it because I can't afford a TSW right now. However, > I've read that the leather version of the MOMO doesn't have this problem > (I think it's belt driven?) > That is often fixed by choosing a different setting in game. For instance. Almost every Papyrus track has a different amount of bumps. (whether you see them or not.) Crank up your FF until you feel the notchyness begin. Then start reducing the amount of forces with the ingame ff slider. I find 'most' Papyrus tracks lose the notches at around 50% For ISI sims like F1c/GTR/rFactor, I use a much higher ingame percentage. 85 to 95% often gives plenty of FF response without the notchiness intruding. your mileage and feel may vary...testing and cataloging your results should benefit your experience. dave henrie