Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

I like my TM F1 Pro (Euro version of NASCAR Pro) but after a few years faithful use it's starting to feel the strain - I've recently had to superglue the pot shaft to the wheel clip. I fancy something a bit more solid and that Momo (seen online for �120 inc VAT and shipping) certainly looks the part. I've never tried FF before, so I'm a little worried about that. If I don't like FF, how is it with the feature switched off? I like the pedals on my TM - I can heel and toe (I use an old T2 pedal set linked to rockfire USB adapter for clutch - works for GPL, N2002, Viper) and the brake has a great feel. The Momo pedals look a bit noddy, but how are they in practise? Any heel and toe-ers use them? I don't really want to have to wire up my TM pedals with the Momo wheel if possible - that'd mean I'd be running a USB wheel, USB shifter, USB clutch and gameport gas and brake. I forsee a world of pain with that setup... The more feedback the better, chaps. Cheers, Mark Reading, UK

Mark wrote: > I don't really want to have to wire up my TM pedals with the Momo > wheel if possible - that'd mean I'd be running a USB wheel, USB > shifter, USB clutch and gameport gas and brake. I forsee a world of > pain with that setup... I use stand alone Redline pedals with my momo. They use the joystick port in my soundcard, the whole setup works fine with Papy sims. So, no need to wire anything if you just want to run GPL and N4/2002, and you won't have any problems because they see all axis. You'll have trouble with RT and F1CR because of the noddy controller configuration, though. I'm not saying these problems can't be overcome, it's just I never bothered to try, and just got my money back on these titles instead. BTM, you'll love the Momo wheel! Cheers Gerry

I was considering using my TSW2 pedals with my Momo, but have actually gotten to where I like the Momo pedals now and have gotten used to them. I love the Momo, and while the TSW2 is a fantastic wheel, the Momo is my wheel of choice and what I race with. I just wish I could run F12001 it dual axis pedals, I can but my throttle control is pretty crappy, so I run it in single axis. Don Burnette "Mark" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

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> I like my TM F1 Pro (Euro version of NASCAR Pro) but after a few years > faithful use it's starting to feel the strain - I've recently had to > superglue the pot shaft to the wheel clip. I fancy something a bit > more solid and that Momo (seen online for �120 inc VAT and shipping) > certainly looks the part. I've never tried FF before, so I'm a little > worried about that. If I don't like FF, how is it with the feature > switched off? > > I like the pedals on my TM - I can heel and toe (I use an old T2 pedal > set linked to rockfire USB adapter for clutch - works for GPL, N2002, > Viper) and the brake has a great feel. The Momo pedals look a bit > noddy, but how are they in practise? Any heel and toe-ers use them? > > I don't really want to have to wire up my TM pedals with the Momo > wheel if possible - that'd mean I'd be running a USB wheel, USB > shifter, USB clutch and gameport gas and brake. I forsee a world of > pain with that setup... > > The more feedback the better, chaps. > > Cheers, > > Mark > Reading, UK >

Mark; See my post earlier - I was in the same boat as you and got my MOMO yesterday. My first impressions were very good. The wheel is much more accurate than the one it replaced. Force Feedback is new to me as well - but with settings supplied by a GPL mate - it felt very good first try. I took the Ferrari out at Monza (gpl) and was within a half second of my personal best within 10 laps. The pedals felt a bit "dead" at first - but I will get used to them - and they have a solid feel. I've no problem recommending it on my limited experience. That said - there was a problem with the shifter paddle on the right and my MOMO is now back in it's box awaiting exchange. [email hidden] (Mark) wrote in news:[email hidden]:

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> I like my TM F1 Pro (Euro version of NASCAR Pro) but after a few years > faithful use it's starting to feel the strain - I've recently had to > superglue the pot shaft to the wheel clip. I fancy something a bit > more solid and that Momo (seen online for �120 inc VAT and shipping) > certainly looks the part. I've never tried FF before, so I'm a little > worried about that. If I don't like FF, how is it with the feature > switched off? > > I like the pedals on my TM - I can heel and toe (I use an old T2 pedal > set linked to rockfire USB adapter for clutch - works for GPL, N2002, > Viper) and the brake has a great feel. The Momo pedals look a bit > noddy, but how are they in practise? Any heel and toe-ers use them? > > I don't really want to have to wire up my TM pedals with the Momo > wheel if possible - that'd mean I'd be running a USB wheel, USB > shifter, USB clutch and gameport gas and brake. I forsee a world of > pain with that setup... > > The more feedback the better, chaps. > > Cheers, > > Mark > Reading, UK

On Fri, 12 Apr 2002 10:41:33 GMT, "Don Burnette" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>I was considering using my TSW2 pedals with my Momo, but have actually >gotten to where I like the Momo pedals now and have gotten used to them. >I love the Momo, and while the TSW2 is a fantastic wheel, the Momo is my >wheel of choice and what I race with. >I just wish I could run F12001 it dual axis pedals, I can but my throttle >control is pretty crappy, so I run it in single axis. > >Don Burnette

Don, you can fix the dual axis problems in F1 2001 with DXTweak. With dual axis F1 2001 uses only half of the pedal travel, but with dxtweak you can solve this problem. It's a bit of a pain to explain, do a search on google for some older ras posts about this. Or wait a couple of weeks untill F1 2002 is released, I will spank them personally if they haven't fixed the dual axis problem. Andre

"Mark" wrote... > <snip> Go for it Mark. It's a great FF wheel. I recommend it wholeheartedly. Jan. =---

Thanks guys, The cheapest I've seen it in a b&m store is 150 quid (and they've got no more). 120 online is the best I've found so far. That's what I paid for my T2 all those years ago... Let's hope this month's bonus is up to it, otherwise I've got a 3 or 4 month wait... Cheers, Mark Reading, UK

Take my advice, I just had to send my MOMO back to Logitech because of a popping inside the wheel, seems as though a gear lost a tooth or a bad FF Motor. But anyway I've only had it since October. The cost of shipping the wheel back 2 day was going to be $60 at Mailboxes etc. Buy the wheel locally, that way if you have a problem your not without a wheel for 2 weeks. Get it at Best Buy and be happy. I don't buy anything on the net that I might have to return due to bad workmanship...it is not worth the shipping and long wait for return. In article <a979ou$qa0$[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

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> Thanks guys, > > The cheapest I've seen it in a b&m store is 150 quid (and they've got no > more). 120 online is the best I've found so far. That's what I paid for my > T2 all those years ago... > > Let's hope this month's bonus is up to it, otherwise I've got a 3 or 4 month > wait... > > Cheers, > > Mark > Reading, UK > > >

<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

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> Take my advice, I just had to send my MOMO back to Logitech > because of a popping inside the wheel, seems as though a gear > lost a tooth or a bad FF Motor. But anyway I've only had it > since October. The cost of shipping the wheel back 2 day > was going to be $60 at Mailboxes etc. Buy the wheel locally, > that way if you have a problem your not without a wheel for 2 weeks. > Get it at Best Buy and be happy. I don't buy anything on the net that > I might have to return due to bad workmanship...it is not worth the > shipping and long wait for return.

I will certainly bear this in mind - I usually prefer to buy over the counter. Depends on how strapped for cash I am at purchase time as to whether I gamble or not... Mark Reading, UK

Mark, I am sure I paid �130 at Pc World for mine. I just looked on the off chance as their web site didn't list it. It doesn't now but that doesn't mean a thing in my experience. The previous week I had asked if they would be getting any and I might as well have asked the cardboard cutout at the entrance to the store! Tony "Mark Davison" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:a979ou$qa0$[email hidden]...

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> Thanks guys, > > The cheapest I've seen it in a b&m store is 150 quid (and they've got no > more). 120 online is the best I've found so far. That's what I paid for my > T2 all those years ago... > > Let's hope this month's bonus is up to it, otherwise I've got a 3 or 4 month > wait... > > Cheers, > > Mark > Reading, UK > >

Be sure and let us know how you like the wheel!

"Tony Rickard" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:B8Wt8.1231$[email hidden]... > Mark, > > I am sure I paid �130 at Pc World for mine. > > I just looked on the off chance as their web site didn't list it. Itdoesn't now > but that doesn't mean a thing in my experience. The previous week I hadasked if > they would be getting any and I might as well have asked the cardboardcutout at > the entrance to the store! Yeah, that's my kind of PC World experience, too. It is possible to get decent deals if you know exactly what you want and they happen to be running some sort os special, but that's about it. Went in a couple of weeks ago and they had one for �150, but there are none there now. I figure it's pointless to go through the pain of asking until I'm in a position to buy... Mark Reading, UK

Well guys, I've done the deed. http://www.dabs.com/products/prod-info3-info.asp?&m=y&quicklinx=13T8&refererid=DT So if I think it's crap, you can all chip in and refund my �120... ;) I'll let you know what it does to my N2K2 Watkins Glen laptimes in 1-3 business days time :) And if anyone has any example core.inis to try with GPL I'd appreciate it... Mark Reading, UK [email hidden] (Mark) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

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> I like my TM F1 Pro (Euro version of NASCAR Pro) but after a few years > faithful use it's starting to feel the strain - I've recently had to > superglue the pot shaft to the wheel clip. I fancy something a bit > more solid and that Momo (seen online for �120 inc VAT and shipping) > certainly looks the part. I've never tried FF before, so I'm a little > worried about that. If I don't like FF, how is it with the feature > switched off? > > I like the pedals on my TM - I can heel and toe (I use an old T2 pedal > set linked to rockfire USB adapter for clutch - works for GPL, N2002, > Viper) and the brake has a great feel. The Momo pedals look a bit > noddy, but how are they in practise? Any heel and toe-ers use them? > > I don't really want to have to wire up my TM pedals with the Momo > wheel if possible - that'd mean I'd be running a USB wheel, USB > shifter, USB clutch and gameport gas and brake. I forsee a world of > pain with that setup... > > The more feedback the better, chaps. > > Cheers, > > Mark > Reading, UK

In case that you don't like it, I offer you an old LWFF incl. ball bearing conversion in exchange for the Momo. Always wanted to try that one. Shipping in on you though :-) Cya JensSchumi On 19 Apr 2002 03:38:04 -0700, [email hidden] (Mark) wrote: >Well guys, I've done the deed. > >http://www.dabs.com/products/prod-info3-info.asp?&m=y&quicklinx=13T8&refererid=DT > >So if I think it's crap, you can all chip in and refund my �120... ;)<snip> --------------------------------------------- LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at: http://jensschumi.tripod.com/ GPLRank: -14.82 Monsters of GPL: sub 95

Well, got it on Monday, used it at first with my TMF1 pedals (which I'm now thinking are by far the best outside of exotica) because I can not stand the Momo pedals. Decided yesterday to buy a squash ball and do the brake conversion because: 1. I'm sure I'm gonna play more than N2K2 and GPL at some point and odds are that they will not support so many controllers (clutch, shifter, 2 wheel/pedal sets). 2. The MOMO needs pedals atached to work, the TMF1 pedals need the wheel attached to work and that means a whole world of mess around my rig to use the wheel and pedals I want. 3. By not using the TMF1 pedals, I can move the whole set to PC2 for 2-up LAN and sell the TM 360 Modena wheel that's currently attached to it. That's three compelling reasons to endure and try to get used to the MOMO pedals. With my limited testing I have found that my consistency is out of the window. I am starting to get used to the limited throw of the accellerator, but the braking is taking a while to adjust to making heel-toeing very difficult. It's not so bad with left foot braking as up until a couple of weeks ago that's how I always drove, but I just got used to the old heel-toe technique with the TM so I feel like I'm starting from scratch. I hear these pedals are an improvement over the old LWFF, even if the wheel itself isn't, so I'll keep hold of what I've got. Thanks for the offer, though, JensSchumi ;) Mark Reading, UK [email hidden] (JS) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

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> In case that you don't like it, > I offer you an old LWFF incl. ball bearing conversion in exchange for the Momo. > Always wanted to try that one. > > Shipping in on you though :-) > > Cya > JensSchumi

> I hear these pedals are an improvement over the old LWFF, even if the > wheel itself isn't, so I'll keep hold of what I've got. Thanks for > the offer, though, JensSchumi ;) > > Mark > Reading, UK I think you got that backwards. The wheel is the big improvment. Other than the pivot of the pedal themselves the pedals are the same as the LWFF. I like the MOMO alot better than the LWFF I replaced due to its larger range of motion. MadDAWG

"MadDAWG" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

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> > I hear these pedals are an improvement over the old LWFF, even if the > > wheel itself isn't, so I'll keep hold of what I've got. Thanks for > > the offer, though, JensSchumi ;) > > > > Mark > > Reading, UK > > I think you got that backwards. The wheel is the big improvment. Other than > the pivot of the pedal themselves the pedals are the same as the LWFF. I > like the MOMO alot better than the LWFF I replaced due to its larger range > of motion. > > MadDAWG

I don't speak from any sort of experience, it's just that the general consensus -appeared to me- to be that the original LWFF was a nicer, smoother unit. Me? I adore the feel of the MOMO in the hands, but after years of bungee driven Thrustmasters, FF is taking some getting used to. How much punishment can these babies take? I like the idea of really having to work hard at the wheel - like karting. Mark Reading, UK

While the original LWFF was smoother than the MOMO it did not have the bearings on the steering shaft and I son got a bunch of slop in it. Kinda like a wore out Chevy tilt steering column. The original LWFF was a cable driven FF vs. the MOMO's gear drive, hence the smoothness. The LWFF had a problem of overheating and shutting off the FF. I'm think they switched to the gear drive because of that. I'm guess the gear drive takes alot less power to run over the cable setup based on the size difference of the power transformers. I never had any problems with the LWFF pedals so I don't foresee any problems with the MOMO's. The wheel feels 10 times better than the LWFF, other than the smoothness. I've had mine for about 4-6 weeks now and I don't even notice it any more. I have a trick for the brake to keep from locking up the brakes in GPL. I calibrate the brake pedal in the game, and then go back to the Wingman profiler and adjust the brake pedal axis travel down a notch. Basically what this does is the game sees the axis as being from 0-255 but the pedal will only top out at around 200 when full depressed. This does cut down on your overall braking, but if your locking the brakes and sliding your not doing any good with the extra effort. MadDAWG

Nice tip! Thanks, MadDAWG. Mark Reading, UK "MadDAWG" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

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> I have a trick for the brake to keep from locking up the brakes in GPL. I > calibrate the brake pedal in the game, and then go back to the Wingman > profiler and adjust the brake pedal axis travel down a notch. Basically what > this does is the game sees the axis as being from 0-255 but the pedal will > only top out at around 200 when full depressed. This does cut down on your > overall braking, but if your locking the brakes and sliding your not doing > any good with the extra effort. > > MadDAWG

"Mark" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Nice tip! Thanks, MadDAWG. I do the exact opposite for the throttle. I notch down my wheel software one tick and then load the game. Calibrate the pedals and usually get 255 for an upper reading. Then I go BACK to the wheel software and extend the travel back to 100%. This way, I hope, I get full use of the throttle settings. in the game...my pedal will hit 256 when not being restricted. dave henrie > > Mark > Reading, UK > > "MadDAWG" <[email hidden]> wrote in messagenews:<[email hidden]>... > > > I have a trick for the brake to keep from locking up the brakes in GPL.I > > calibrate the brake pedal in the game, and then go back to the Wingman > > profiler and adjust the brake pedal axis travel down a notch. Basicallywhat > > this does is the game sees the axis as being from 0-255 but the pedalwill > > only top out at around 200 when full depressed. This does cut down onyour > > overall braking, but if your locking the brakes and sliding your notdoing > > any good with the extra effort. > > > > MadDAWG

don't mind the typos oand disregard the insults, I'm quite drunk already. and thais sh''t notebook ketboard you cand send to orbit anyhow... Overheatung ids only a problem for later lwffs, comes from a lo0usy themistor on the board./.. can be corrected easily. ball bearings is the keyword. whatever makes your wheelshaft steady and the movement smooth, is the right thing. I still think (have to, of couese ;-) that the cable driven wheel combined with BB's is the better one <grin> About the pedals: since I modified my ones, I don't mind short thriow or what soever as longh as the brake pedal acts virtually pressure sensitive. Haveno idea trhough, why people are rather looking for larger throw than for more realistic acting, nevermind Hmm,.. just readf your brake trick. Buffer your brak epedal stop with something half-soft and you get an even better result. Now I'm getting anothert beer, cheers. JensSchumi On Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:58:09 -0400, "MadDAWG" <[email hidden]> wrote:

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>While the original LWFF was smoother than the MOMO it did not have the >bearings on the steering shaft and I son got a bunch of slop in it. Kinda >like a wore out Chevy tilt steering column. The original LWFF was a cable >driven FF vs. the MOMO's gear drive, hence the smoothness. The LWFF had a >problem of overheating and shutting off the FF. I'm think they switched to >the gear drive because of that. I'm guess the gear drive takes alot less >power to run over the cable setup based on the size difference of the power >transformers. I never had any problems with the LWFF pedals so I don't >foresee any problems with the MOMO's. The wheel feels 10 times better than >the LWFF, other than the smoothness. I've had mine for about 4-6 weeks now >and I don't even notice it any more. > >I have a trick for the brake to keep from locking up the brakes in GPL. I >calibrate the brake pedal in the game, and then go back to the Wingman >profiler and adjust the brake pedal axis travel down a notch. Basically what >this does is the game sees the axis as being from 0-255 but the pedal will >only top out at around 200 when full depressed. This does cut down on your >overall braking, but if your locking the brakes and sliding your not doing >any good with the extra effort. > >MadDAWG >

nd --------------------------------------------- LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at: http://jensschumi.tripod.com/ GPLRank: -14.82 Monsters of GPL: sub 95

sh..t, again no chance to try the Momo. Anyhow, enjoy :-) JensSchumi On 24 Apr 2002 00:19:47 -0700, [email hidden] (Mark) wrote: <snip>

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> >I hear these pedals are an improvement over the old LWFF, even if the >wheel itself isn't, so I'll keep hold of what I've got. Thanks for >the offer, though, JensSchumi ;) > >Mark >Reading, UK

--------------------------------------------- LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at: http://jensschumi.tripod.com/ GPLRank: -14.82 Monsters of GPL: sub 95

> Overheatung ids only a problem for later lwffs, comes from a lo0usythemistor on > the board./.. can be corrected easily. Never heard that before must be a well kept secret with all the complaints about the FF shutting off over the years. > ball bearings is the keyword. whatever makes your wheelshaft steady andthe > movement smooth, is the right thing. I still think (have to, of couese ;-)that > the cable driven wheel combined with BB's is the better one <grin> Ball bearing are a big plus, no doubt. Unfortunatly not eveyone has the means to make mods to their equipment. I saw a BB kit for the LWFF but since it had to come across the pond it was about half the cost of the MOMO without installation. >Haveno > idea trhough, why people are rather looking for larger throw than for more > realistic acting, nevermind The longer throw gives you better control on the amount of braking you get. The same amont of foot travel on a pedal with twice the travel is only half the distance. > Hmm,.. just readf your brake trick. > Buffer your brak epedal stop with something half-soft and you get an evenbetter > result. That does just the opposite of my "trick". My trick simulates a longer pedal travel [at the expence of full braking, but thats usally lock up anyway.] stuffing anything under the pedal actualy shortens the pedal travel, and I want more travel. > Now I'm getting anothert beer, cheers. Lucky bastard! I'm stuck at "work" :( MadDAWG

Ohhhh, big headache today ;-) On Fri, 26 Apr 2002 10:08:54 -0400, "MadDAWG" <[email hidden]> wrote: > >Never heard that before must be a well kept secret with all the complaints >about the FF shutting off over the years. No big secret, must be somewhere on my website > >Ball bearing are a big plus, no doubt. Unfortunatly not eveyone has the >means to make mods to their equipment. I saw a BB kit for the LWFF but since >it had to come across the pond it was about half the cost of the MOMO >without installation. I know that, so to my advantage I have the BB-kits right out of my workshop <g> Problem is that international money transfer is bloody expensive. Can be eased by collective orders, which we did already for US and UK >The longer throw gives you better control on the amount of braking you get. >The same amont of foot travel on a pedal with twice the travel is only half >the distance. Got that. What I mean are pedals where the brake modulation doesn't come from the throw, but from the pressure applied at full throw. It's like the real thing: You apply full brake-throw and modulate the pressure for altering the brake-strength (Hope you understand my lousy transation) Cya Jens --------------------------------------------- LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at: http://jensschumi.tripod.com/ GPLRank: -14.82 Monsters of GPL: sub 95

Ohhhh, big headache today ;-) >Never heard that before must be a well kept secret with all the complaints >about the FF shutting off over the years. No big secret, must be somewhere on my website I know that, so to my advantage I have the BB-kits right out of my workshop <g> Problem is that international money transfer is ***y expensive. Can be eased by collective orders, which we did already for US and UK Got that. What I mean are pedals where the brake modulation doesn't come from the throw, but from the pressure applied at full throw. It's like the real thing: You apply full brake-throw and modulate the pressure for altering the brake-strength (Hope you understand my lousy transation) Cya Jens --------------------------------------------- LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at: [link lost in import] GPLRank: -14.82 Monsters of GPL: sub 95