Has anyone experienced anything like this before? Up until now I had
not bothered to enable FF in any sims I own and my wheel has been
working great for over a year.
Well, upon trying LFS it already appeared to have some kind of FF
enabled and so I thought I would leave it as it is and all had gone ok
up until a couple of nights ago when, towards the end of about an hours
gaming, after a spin my car started to behave funny with the wheel
suddenly lurching slightly every so often on the straights and wanting
to pull to the left. At the time I presumed it was some kind of game
physics damage, lol.
Anyway, went to play the following night and it's still the same, with
the car severely wanting to pull left - I've heard something about this
with the latest patch, but I'm still using the original game download
non-patched - and trying to lurch every so often, but I decided to put
up with it and play anyway thinking I would figure out the game problems
later.
After about 40 minutes or so I decided to call it quits as it was
becoming a bit of a strain keeping the car wheel straight and so went to
take the out the adapter from the power socket only to realise that it
was extremely hot. Not too hot to touch, but definitely hotter than at
any other time. I could only put this down to the extra power that was
being required as it wanted to pull left and was unable to because I was
holding it straight. Am I wrong in this assumption?
Well, now it seems to have burnt itself out. I've plugged it in and
turned it back on, but the wheel is dead, no light comes on, windows
says that it is not connected and the adapter stays cold. The forces
are still there if I try to turn the wheel though, even when not plugged
in. Especially when turning it to the right.
So, has my struggling with the wheel whilst trying to play LFS caused it
to give up the ghost? Is it that these things can only work so hard and
that, in trying and failing to pull the wheel left because I wouldn't
let it, that it burnt itself out?
--
Peter Ives (AKA Pete Ivington)
Remove ALL_STRESS before replying via email
If you know what's good for you, don't listen to me
GPLRank Joystick -50.63 Wheel -21.77
I wouldn't think the game had anything to do with your power supply
burning up. It's a good chance it was already marginal and just expired at
that point. If you hadn't used the FF in the past...there may have been a
short in wiring that wasn't noticed before.... You might want to try
swapping out a new power supply brick...but if the wheel really DID kill the
old one, then the new PS might also burn up...
dave henrie
"Peter Ives"
Peter, are you in the US, or UK or Australia?
It would be the first time I've heard of a power supply for this wheel
burning out in the US. I've heard of it a few times in Australia and it
might have something to do with the outlets there if the house has aluminum
wiring. It was an ok code there at one time, but it switched to copper a few
years back. I'm not sure about the UK, but it would be interesting to know.
Aluminum wiring oxidized at the outlets (and other places) and this causes
lot's of problems with wall warts (transformers that plug into the wall).
The transformer for the Ferrari wheels is barely adequate as it is. If you
replace it, get one that's 18 to 20 volts and at least 1 amp.
--
Slot
Tweaks & Reviews
www.slottweak.com
"Peter Ives" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
> Has anyone experienced anything like this before? Up until now I had
> not bothered to enable FF in any sims I own and my wheel has been
> working great for over a year.
>
> Well, upon trying LFS it already appeared to have some kind of FF
> enabled and so I thought I would leave it as it is and all had gone ok
> up until a couple of nights ago when, towards the end of about an hours
> gaming, after a spin my car started to behave funny with the wheel
> suddenly lurching slightly every so often on the straights and wanting
> to pull to the left. At the time I presumed it was some kind of game
> physics damage, lol.
>
> Anyway, went to play the following night and it's still the same, with
> the car severely wanting to pull left - I've heard something about this
> with the latest patch, but I'm still using the original game download
> non-patched - and trying to lurch every so often, but I decided to put
> up with it and play anyway thinking I would figure out the game problems
> later.
>
> After about 40 minutes or so I decided to call it quits as it was
> becoming a bit of a strain keeping the car wheel straight and so went to
> take the out the adapter from the power socket only to realise that it
> was extremely hot. Not too hot to touch, but definitely hotter than at
> any other time. I could only put this down to the extra power that was
> being required as it wanted to pull left and was unable to because I was
> holding it straight. Am I wrong in this assumption?
>
> Well, now it seems to have burnt itself out. I've plugged it in and
> turned it back on, but the wheel is dead, no light comes on, windows
> says that it is not connected and the adapter stays cold. The forces
> are still there if I try to turn the wheel though, even when not plugged
> in. Especially when turning it to the right.
>
> So, has my struggling with the wheel whilst trying to play LFS caused it
> to give up the ghost? Is it that these things can only work so hard and
> that, in trying and failing to pull the wheel left because I wouldn't
> let it, that it burnt itself out?
> --
> Peter Ives (AKA Pete Ivington)
> Remove ALL_STRESS before replying via email
> If you know what's good for you, don't listen to me
> GPLRank Joystick -50.63 Wheel -21.77
If you read the readme.TXT that came with the latest patch for LFS, it
explains how there are different settings for forces and all that. Different
types for different wheels, and I'm pretty sure that if you are on the wrong
setting, the "pulling left" thing is the common issue. So try the different
settings or see if your wheel is mentioned in the txt, it will say what type
to use.
As for the wheel dying, I have the Thrustmaster Ferrari FF and I can say
that the power supply is always HOT! I leave it plugged in for months
though, and it's been fine. Fire hazard.. maybe. I don't see how the
constant pulling left would cause anything different to happen that wouldnt'
when playing another game. Forces are forces, and are the same amount of
work, regardless of pulling constantly left, or shakin' the crap out of you
while playing Rally Trophy for a few hours.
That's what I think anyways :)
If it's not under warranty, you could at least open her up and see if
there's anything noticeably wrong.
Mike
http://mikebeauchamp.com
"Peter Ives" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted text (42 lines)
> Has anyone experienced anything like this before? Up until now I had > not bothered to enable FF in any sims I own and my wheel has been > working great for over a year. > > Well, upon trying LFS it already appeared to have some kind of FF > enabled and so I thought I would leave it as it is and all had gone ok > up until a couple of nights ago when, towards the end of about an hours > gaming, after a spin my car started to behave funny with the wheel > suddenly lurching slightly every so often on the straights and wanting > to pull to the left. At the time I presumed it was some kind of game > physics damage, lol. > > Anyway, went to play the following night and it's still the same, with > the car severely wanting to pull left - I've heard something about this > with the latest patch, but I'm still using the original game download > non-patched - and trying to lurch every so often, but I decided to put > up with it and play anyway thinking I would figure out the game problems > later. > > After about 40 minutes or so I decided to call it quits as it was > becoming a bit of a strain keeping the car wheel straight and so went to > take the out the adapter from the power socket only to realise that it > was extremely hot. Not too hot to touch, but definitely hotter than at > any other time. I could only put this down to the extra power that was > being required as it wanted to pull left and was unable to because I was > holding it straight. Am I wrong in this assumption? > > Well, now it seems to have burnt itself out. I've plugged it in and > turned it back on, but the wheel is dead, no light comes on, windows > says that it is not connected and the adapter stays cold. The forces > are still there if I try to turn the wheel though, even when not plugged > in. Especially when turning it to the right. > > So, has my struggling with the wheel whilst trying to play LFS caused it > to give up the ghost? Is it that these things can only work so hard and > that, in trying and failing to pull the wheel left because I wouldn't > let it, that it burnt itself out? > -- > Peter Ives (AKA Pete Ivington) > Remove ALL_STRESS before replying via email > If you know what's good for you, don't listen to me > GPLRank Joystick -50.63 Wheel -21.77In article <Diaa9.179990$me6.22768@sccrnsc01>, Dave Henrie
<[email hidden]> writes
Definitely going to have to get a new PS. The dead one says:
Output 20v === 750mA 15VA
So I guess I need a 20volt 750mA+ mains adapter. Any suggestions where
to find one in the UK. Glad to buy online if necessary. Maplins don't
seem to have anything in that spec., but then I'm no expert.
--
Peter Ives (AKA Pete Ivington)
Remove ALL_STRESS before replying via email
If you know what's good for you, don't listen to me
GPLRank Joystick -50.63 Wheel -21.77
Quoted text (9 lines)
> I wouldn't think the game had anything to do with your power supply >burning up. It's a good chance it was already marginal and just expired at >that point. If you hadn't used the FF in the past...there may have been a >short in wiring that wasn't noticed before.... You might want to try >swapping out a new power supply brick...but if the wheel really DID kill the >old one, then the new PS might also burn up... >dave henrie >"Peter Ives" >In article <akbec9$1guf5q$[email hidden]>, GTX_SlotCar
<[email hidden]> writes
Cheers, I'm in the UK and that's the type of transformer I'm looking
for. Old one appears to have been 750mA at 20 volts.
--
Peter Ives (AKA Pete Ivington)
Remove ALL_STRESS before replying via email
If you know what's good for you, don't listen to me
GPLRank Joystick -50.63 Wheel -21.77
Quoted text (12 lines)
>Peter, are you in the US, or UK or Australia? >It would be the first time I've heard of a power supply for this wheel >burning out in the US. I've heard of it a few times in Australia and it >might have something to do with the outlets there if the house has aluminum >wiring. It was an ok code there at one time, but it switched to copper a few >years back. I'm not sure about the UK, but it would be interesting to know. >Aluminum wiring oxidized at the outlets (and other places) and this causes >lot's of problems with wall warts (transformers that plug into the wall). >The transformer for the Ferrari wheels is barely adequate as it is. If you >replace it, get one that's 18 to 20 volts and at least 1 amp. > >In article <JZla9.16850$[email hidden]>, Mike Beauchamp
<[email hidden]> writes
Cheers, will check it out, though it didn't used to do it. Everything
was fine until a couple of days ago after that hour session.
Too true, forces are forces, but as I said, I have never bothered with
enabling FF with this wheel till now, I have just used it as a plain
wheel and the only time I have had to force the wheel to move in the
past is when having to do a severe steering correction otherwise no
forces to fight against. Even when playing LFS originally, the forces
were not too strong when steering, but they were quite strong once
things went funny and it wasn't until this lengthy session where I chose
to put up with it and just use my strength to keep the wheel straight
that the transformer was so much hotter than it has been before. I
mean, now it doesn't even get warm anymore. :(
>That's what I think anyways :)
>
>If it's not under warranty, you could at least open her up and see if
>there's anything noticeably wrong.
>
I could do, but I wouldn't know what I was looking for. I remember
opening a dead transformer up in the past, but couldn't see anything
that looked like the reason for it being dead. I think I would be
wasting my time. Then again, I may just take a peek. :)
--
Peter Ives (AKA Pete Ivington)
Remove ALL_STRESS before replying via email
If you know what's good for you, don't listen to me
GPLRank Joystick -50.63 Wheel -21.77
